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99 vette no crank many codes

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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 11:45 PM
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Default 99 vette no crank many codes

have a friend that has a 99 has no crank all kinds of code can not talk to bcm with scan tool just happened after having car detailed did not clean engine bay I can not find no water in no connections anyone got any ideals? I am thinking bcm but a lot of money for one hate to get one and it don't fix it

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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 12:42 AM
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You likely have a grounding issue or a connector that has failed or is corroded. Open the drivers door and find the rubber accordion at the door hinge. Give it a few good yanks up and Down and side to side. See if it starts. If not pull the accordion all the way out and look at the connector for corrosion or failed pins. Open the connector and inspect. Likely you will find the problem. Before you do this clear all the codes and after starting see which reappear. Write down all the codes on the DIC. good luck.
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 07:19 AM
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Did they detail the interior? I have heard of people spraying "whatever" and getting it into the ignition key cylinder and affecting the ability to read the key resistance. What does the Security message do when you put the key in?
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 05:23 PM
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Where was this detail done? Were the doors open for many hours with lights etc on, and now there's a dead battery? Check the voltage at the battery terminals and see what it is. Start with easy and obvious things first before spending ridiculous amounts of money shotgun style looking for a cure.
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 07:36 PM
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I do know they used a pressure washer I am going to look at the door connectors this weekend I think I will find the problem there I hope it goes crazy when trying to start every message you can think of pops up on the dic it has to be something wet causing problem
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 06:55 AM
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Pressure washer was a BAD IDEA. Better look at the I/P fuse box and BCM area and see if it is wet in there.
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 10:40 AM
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TWO things come to mind with this issue:

WET BCM

CORRUPTED SERIAL DATA BUSS

See if the BCM in the passengers foot well is or was wet. Lift up the carpet and feel the JUTE Underlayment and see if it wet / damp. If it is, disconnect the battery and put the BCM in a warm dry place to allow it to dry out

If its dry, POP the top off the "FOUR WIRE" STAR Connector to the left of the BCM. That isolated the LDCM, RDCM and SCM serial data wires. See if the issue goes away when you disconnect that connector top.



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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 10:43 PM
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when I checked it there was no water in floor board bcm looked dry it has been sitting in there garage for over a month I am going to look at it again tomorrow
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 108C6
when I checked it there was no water in floor board bcm looked dry it has been sitting in there garage for over a month I am going to look at it again tomorrow
If it is not on a tender you should charge the battery. Sitting a month will likely run the battery down to less than full charge. You can't do any troubleshooting with a weak battery.
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 08:07 AM
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If you charge a dead battery in the car DISCONNECT the negative cable first. Normal car chargers produce DC square waves that can pound the electronics and damage them. A really dead battery cannot filter these. If a battery is just a little low there is no concern.

A car charger may not be as sophisticated as the ones in a computer based on the design for replicating a true DC voltage.
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 07:03 PM
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I checked car today checked both door pass thru connectors they where ok also looked for signs of water in pass foot well none found bcm was dry I can only comm with both door modules after I reconnected bcm turned on key and it started going crazy clicking real fast did not stop till turning of ignition this is the first time it has done that I am lost on this one

Last edited by 108C6; Feb 14, 2015 at 08:18 PM. Reason: wrong info
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 07:33 AM
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OK, did you charge the battery before you tried this? It needs to be at or above 12.5 volts. If it is low then all hell will be going on with relays trying to operate with under voltage.
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 08:35 AM
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car has been on a battery tender and also just had new battery installed before this happened
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 12:51 PM
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If the battery is truely good and fully charged, you still could have an undervoltage issue. The voltage coming out of the ignition switch could be incorrect due to damaged/burnt/ corroded switch contacts.

Check out this post and do some voltage checks on the HOT In RUN & START checks on the fuses to each of the modules. They MUST be very close to full battery voltage.

There are test points on the TOP of each fuse.

- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
Did they detail the interior? I have heard of people spraying "whatever" and getting it into the ignition key cylinder and affecting the ability to read the key resistance. What does the Security message do when you put the key in?
Still interested in the answer to what the "Security" message says/does since it does not crank.

Also, is this a manual or auto?
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 01:27 PM
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It doesn't matter if and for how long the battery tender has been on, and how new the battery is. Do you think you can take it off the tender for a few hours and measure the battery voltage to be sure that's not the problem? Some people are just too stubborn to listen to any advice or proceed in a logical stepwise fashion to try and solve a problem, they would rather grasp for straws. If you are not interested in what your battery's voltage is, others here might be, in order to assist you. Clicking relays are one of the most common symptoms of low battery voltage, but if you don't want to check that, then go ahead and replace every other electrical component in the car until you give up.
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Old Feb 15, 2015 | 07:48 PM
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calling for snow here this week I will check battery voltage at bcm connections and coming out of ignition switch this weekend plus we are dealing with my 12 year old lad not able to us his rear legs the dog means more to me than a friends vette right now thanks for the help so far
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To 99 vette no crank many codes

Old Feb 15, 2015 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mrlmd
It doesn't matter if and for how long the battery tender has been on, and how new the battery is. Do you think you can take it off the tender for a few hours and measure the battery voltage to be sure that's not the problem? Some people are just too stubborn to listen to any advice or proceed in a logical stepwise fashion to try and solve a problem, they would rather grasp for straws. If you are not interested in what your battery's voltage is, others here might be, in order to assist you. Clicking relays are one of the most common symptoms of low battery voltage, but if you don't want to check that, then go ahead and replace every other electrical component in the car until you give up.
MAN,,,, Ive felt that way for YEARS!,
You stated it PREFECTLY!





Bill
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 12:58 PM
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got a chance to check car today and battery voltage is ok as I thought it is not a voltage problem battery had 12.7 volts at battery checked all power wires at bcm all where 12.6 checked grounds and powers at bcm connections all showed 12.5 volts here is the problem I found when you check grounds at bcm by meter one end at negative battery post the other at bcm meter on oms you get 2.5 way to high check gound from battery to block you get .8 grounds at g104 don't look that good will clean and recheck and let everyone know thanks
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 12:38 PM
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From: bluff city tn.
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cleaned all grounds rechecked with omh meter reading .7 thought all was good but still want start bcm is clicking like crazy with switch off I have all power and grounds working now I just hate buying a bcm but looks like that is where I might be headed any one got any more ideals?
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