HVAC actuator or controller problem?
Thanks,
Sam
You also have to pull the correct fuse and it has to be done in a specific order.
Re-Calibrating Actuators
Use the following steps to perform the calibration update:
1. Turn OFF the ignition.
2. Remove the battery positive voltage circuit fuse of the HVAC Control Module (fuse #27).
Important
The module memory will not clear if the battery positive voltage circuit fuse is installed in less than 60 seconds.
3. Wait 60 seconds.
4. Install the fuse.
This procedure resets the HVAC unit and must be done exactly as I have posted.





Sounds like that's your issue. Get a light, remove the close out cover in the drivers foot well and take a look at the actuator and see if the operator moves when you change temps.
You can always easily remove the drivers side actuator and inspect it. Some people have repaired the damaged gear:

IF,,,,,,,, The passengers side actuator is bad,,,, THATS A LOT OF WORK to access it and change it out.
It's acting like it keeps trying to calibrate the actuators - over and over again.
I thought about the broken actuator gear, but wouldn't that keep the actuator doors from moving? I keep hearing the doors creaking about every minute or so. If it was the gear, then wouldn't it just spin and not move the doors? My HVAC controller is also having an issue with the fan motor speed control. Could my controller be bad?
Sam





It's acting like it keeps trying to calibrate the actuators - over and over again.
I thought about the broken actuator gear, but wouldn't that keep the actuator doors from moving? I keep hearing the doors creaking about every minute or so. If it was the gear, then wouldn't it just spin and not move the doors? My HVAC controller is also having an issue with the fan motor speed control. Could my controller be bad?
Sam
Sam
LOL!! When the gear cracks it can make all sorts of weird noises. You need to physically see if the shaft is moving when the actuator is commanded to change the temp.
What type of HVAC do you have ??
Manual or Dual Zone?
If you have a manual system, the resistor board has blown resistors and looks like this:

If you have a dual zone, the control module ($$$$) is TOAST and probably looks like this inside:
MODULE APART:


BURNT CIRCUIT TRACES:




