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Is it normal for the radiator hose to collapse when parked or stored? It may have been doing it all along I just noticed it the other day.
We have only had a C5 since August.
That's weird..I haven't been in the system and the car doesn't overheat...
we are having HUGE temperature swings.. -0 wind chills and then 70 the next day.. the car is parked in a non heated shop.....would that have anything to do with it?
Last edited by 73Corvette; Mar 4, 2015 at 09:57 AM.
Ok I forgot I had the radiator OUT to clean it when we first got it...duh OMG
I probably do have AIR....and may not need the hose...
So how do I burp the system or get rid of the air...
Last edited by 73Corvette; Mar 4, 2015 at 09:59 AM.
IF I was going to change a hose I would do all of them as well as new coolant and be done with it. There is a proc. for filling and venting. Google it to be sure.
Your coolant reservoir VENT CAP is suppose to allow a vacuum condition to VENT. It should seal under pressure, vent under vacuum. In my opinion, you have a BAD CAP!
What difference does a full engine or full hose make? If you draw a vacuum on the Coolant Reservoir, its still going to suck the upper hoses flat even if it has water in it or not. The vacuum will just pull the water into the Reservoir. The lower (pump suction ) hose should have a wire spring in it so it doesn't suck flat when the water pump is operating.
Here is what I would do. Wash the cap in hot soapy water (swish it around) and see if that will free it up.
GM Revised a new Coolant Reservoir VENT CAP that has a higher rated pressure. You could just get a new cap. That would solve two issues:
You will have a higher system pressure
You will have a properly operating cap.
Yes it important to make sure that the BLOCK is full of coolant.
When I vent my engine, I loosen the passenger head front cross over pipe fastener with the system pressurized. When it pisses coolant,,, its FULL. Do that several times and you will have a full engine block.
If the cross over pipe is working properly, it should self vent over time.
Not questioning your response...thank you by the way. But I do have a question... why was the system on vacuum? Or, I guess I should say what causes the vacuum... I am guessing the air I introduced to the system when I took off the radiator and cleaned it...and the reason it didn't "fix itself" is because the cap isn't functioning properly... is that sorta right?
Also, what am I looking for to free up when I wash it...
$21 for a new vent cap I'll get one if needed thanks.
I washed like you suggested, but how do I check it to know if it is working properly...
Last edited by 73Corvette; Mar 4, 2015 at 05:19 PM.
Thank you guys.. I have to first complete my Vararam install.. then I'll pick up the new surge tank vent cap and try to bleed the air out of the system... hopefully no more collapsed hose or temps near 230.. In the infamous words of Arnold whats his name...."Ill be bock"
The vent hole in the surge tank cap is a 2 way valve. As the car heats up and the coolant expands it closes and keeps pressure on the cooling system so that the boiling point of the coolant is raised ( about 3 degrees for each pound of pressure) . When the car is cooling down the vent allows atmospheric pressure back in on top of the coolant. When the vent is plugged the system attempts to return to its normal condition with some air on top of the coolant. If the vent does NOT allow atmospheric pressure back in then the air that was on top of the coolant gets sucked into the coolant as the coolant cools. The result is the (usually ) upper hose collasing and the air that was on top of the coolant in the surge tank ending up mixed with the coolant.
To correct your problem you will need to either clean out the vent in the surge tank cap (I'd purchase a new one) and then bleed the air from the system.
Since you tried cleaning the vent you will have to try the cap to see if the problem returns...........
$21 for a cap must be a dealer price. Auto zone and other parts stores get about $15 for an AC Delco cap. About 1/2 that for other brand caps.
Thank you guys.. I have to first complete my Vararam install.. then I'll pick up the new surge tank vent cap and try to bleed the air out of the system... hopefully no more collapsed hose or temps near 230.. In the infamous words of Arnold whats his name...."Ill be bock"
While you have the front apart,, back flush the cooling fins on the radiator with a garden hose and flush out sand and dirt that gets lodged in the fins. You will be amazed what comes out. Take the top cover off the raditor and make sure that the 1" space between the rad and the condensor is clean. Grass and trash can get in side that gap.
The NEW radiator cap did fix the issue I was having with the upper hose collapsing... I also had over filled the tank when putting coolant ... I didn't know there was a fill line on the front of the reservoir and just filled it to the bottom of the neck... After sucking some fluid out to lower the coolant and the new cap and cleaning the radiator and A/C condenser... the temp stays at a very comfy 197 degrees....
Radiator hose
After sucking some fluid out to lower the coolant and the new cap and cleaning the radiator and A/C condenser... the temp stays at a very comfy 197 degrees....