Alright guys,

Got an 02 Z06 with 80k miles on it.

I have had some of the "notchy" feel going from 3rd to 4th and my clutch pedal was going to the floor after a little spriTed driving so I decided to try replacing my master with a tick unit. Not bad to install but after the test drive found that it was extremely hard to put it in to 3-4 th gears.

Tried to replace tranny fluid and do the anti-venom method still with no results. Now today adjusted my shifter (b&m ripper) it was a little off but not too bad . I actually got kinda excited that it was off thinking that would be my problem. So, adjusted the shifter with still no result.. Now it won't even go in to 3-4th gears. Any solutions you guys have?

I'm gettin ready to install a new monster stage 3 with new pilot, release and remote bleeder. Just didn't wanna install the clutch when I should do the transmission as well. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Two very important questions and things you need to check:

1- Are you POSITIVE the the clutch is properly blead and you have FRESH fluid?

2- Are you POSITIVE that you have the master cyl adjusted properly??

First try this:

- Find a level flat smooth hard top road. Put the car in first gear, depress the clutch fully and rev the engine. DOES THE CARE ROLL FORWARD?

- Jack the rear wheels off the ground . Put on stands.
Fully depress the clutch with engine running and put the trans in first gear. Does the rear wheels turn.

If the car rolls forward or the wheels turn, the TICK ADJUSTMENT ROD needs to be LENGTHENED until there is no more driving force on the wheels (or very little)

Give that a try and let us know what you find.

Bill

 

double check the master cylinder adjustment... I thought I had mine adjusted properly, about 1.5" below my brake pedal and it shifted fine through all gears while driving normally but under wot the 1-2 shift was fine but 2-3 and 3-4 would not go easily at all and I was losing way too much rpm between shifts... it was odd that if I did the test of revving it in gear with the clutch depressed the car would not creep forward... I had a brand new twin disc so I was pretty sure that wasn't the problem... after consulting with Martin at tick he recommended I move the pedal up to within .5" of the brake pedal and after that it shifted like butter under all conditions

 

If your budget can take the hit; have your trans rebuilt to at least C6 strength, when the TT is out anyway. 02s have some parts that're easily bent, so it's a good idea. Lots of things I wished I did, when I changed my clutch. Barring adjustment to your Tick fixing your problem, the slave cylinder/clutch replacement should solve further clutch woes. GL.

 

Ok this I what I did, I took this form the ls1tech forum..

"There is a check valve in the brass/gold colored fitting at the end of that line that your helper will need to press in only after you have pressure on the clutch pedal. Once you have your foot resting on the clutch pedal (it will be rock solid firm with the line unhooked) have your helper press the valve in with a screw driver or pen while you pump downwards on the clutch and hold it there.

Hold the clutch to the floor until the fluid is done coming out of the line for that single pump. Have your helper let off the check valve, count to three and then release the clutch pedal. Repeat this process catching the fluid in a bottle or jar and if it's new clean fluid return it back to the reservoir to repeat this process again until you have filled and emptied the reservoir at least 2-3 times through the master. Then move to the slave cylinder side after installing your speed bleeder and bleeding the slave from there."


I don't have a remote bleeder hooked up yet so I just did just the bleeding process from the brass check valve. Id say I ran a good 30oz through it. am going to try to take the x pipe and the tunnel cover off here today. Going to attempt to install the remote bleeder or just get a tube hooked to the slave bleeder (if that's how it works or is it just basically a plug?) and do it that way. But it looks like a quick search of attempts to install with out the transmission and TT dropped is near impossible.

As for the pedal adjustment, I have it on jack stands now and did start it up the wheels were turning when I was in neutral but could easily be stopped with my hands. Put the transmission in 1st with clutch pedal depressed and no wheel spin. but haven't had it on the ground yet to see if it would roll when taking the RPM's up. No changes as of yet to getting 3-4th back, I fear the shift fork is bent or worse

Thanks for the help guys,

 

I would love to get the transmission built (hence the stage 3 monster) to a tick rebuild stage 2 at least. Future plans include F/I, maybe next year. The budget Is pretty tight right now so I think I would blow more than half the summer and if you know anything about ND, the summers are precious here lol. So I would like to do that next winter.

 

So, I did have some success with installing the tick remote speed bleeder with out removing the TT. I installed it with some basic hand tools and a lot of patience. if anyone would like to do this and have any questions on my "method" id be happy to help.

As for the transmission, it did not help bleeding from the slave cylinder. I did get some air pockets but not sure if that was because i installed the remote bleeder. If anyone has any other suggestions I am all ears.. thanks in advance.