Ok guys looking for the best bang for the buck right now.
97 coupe has 3:15 gears in it a4 bone stock!!
I am debating 3 things I could do for $500
3500 stall converter found a tci new in the box for $300 just have to drive 2 hours one way to get it
nitrous? I have bottles from old projects and found a ls1 kit for $290 on ebay that does not come with a bottle or fuel pump and tune. Speed inc can do a mail order and just pull timing for $150
so this mod will likely go over the $500 budget after I get bottle warmer, gauge, fill bottle, etc.
Tires? found a really good deal on 2753518's but I am on a 10 1/2 rear wheel so I don't think the tires will be that good of a deal if I cant get optimal traction out of them.
Just looking to improve my 1/4 and right now I am really liking the converter as it would be full time. I don't take long road trips so mpg etc does not bother me.
Last and not least z06 rear diff? I don't remember the ratio on these but I know its lower than my 3:15
Really want to improve the bottom end take off power.

 

sorry converter is a ptc 10" 3500 stall single disc lock up pn ptc10-700-30 lus 200+ps

 

Z06 gears are 3.42. But the torque converter will yield more ET gain. Either way you'll want a tune to adjust line pressure shift points tq management etc...

 

The best mod you can do on ANY automatic car is a stall converter----Glad to hear it's a PTC as I haven't had any luck with the TCI's--
After you put in a stall--You will need a tune.---There's your $500----A stall creates false misfires and unless you fix this in your tune the trans can overheat and a misfire makes the converter remain UNLOCKED---whether real knock or false
I changed my rear from a 3.15 to a 3.42---Yes it was better but said and done--really expected more----
I would stay away from NOS----The cost is now between $6-10 a lb and you only get maybe 60-100 seconds per bottle---
My 2nd choice after the stall would be a LS6 intake----A solid 10-14 RWHP--You can find them cheap online ( I bought mine used for $275)
Ported T-Body $150 8-10 RWHP
Shorty headers (smog legal) about $500) 10-15 RWHP
Long tube headers (not legal in some states) about $1000 but 20-30 RWHP
This assumes you already have the basic starter bolts ons
cold air intake $350----8-12 RWHP
Cat back exhaust $450-1200 8-10 RWHP

 

I was reading that I need to install a trans cooler and have it tuned.
Will a mail order tune work for this? Also I called ptc and they told me the converter in my stock car will likely stall around 2500 or less
Says more hp it will go higher. I am going to assume your vote goes to the converter but a $500 tune will certainly add up the cost. Not a big deal as I can wait to save a little more toy fund just want to get an idea before I get into something really expensive. I feel this car is super slow off the line and don't like thinking a wrx could wax me at a red light lol

 

eneded up buying it $320 free shipping
called speed inc and they can dyno and get the trans right for $150 tune trans only and he said they can probably pull timing at the same time if I decide I want nitrous but I am doing all on a budget used tires, long tubes, etc. I am a cheap *** but get decent used parts I just have to wait for them top pop up. Thanks for the help I am sure I made a good choice on this one.

 

No I meant $500 for both the tune and the converter---Most people don't know how a stall works just in case--A C5 has a stall of about 1400 RPM meaning the converter is slipping until it reaches 1400 RPM where it goes 1:1--At 1400 RPM your engine may be making 100 HP at launch----Now--install a 3000 stall--when you floor it --it goes 1:1 at 3000 now where it is making more like 200 HP--so you have basically doubled the HP at launch !!!
An aftermarket larger trans cooler is a must with a stall--They are cheap--a large 8x11 is about $75--and use only a stacked plate design--the best

 

3:15 gears & 3500 TC = a lot of pedal to move the car, trans fluid will get hot

 

What do you guys think I will be running in the 1/4?
obviously I will install dot slicks before I go to the track.
so bone stock 3500 stall and drag tires.
I found this video and claims to be 3600 stall and same gear as me a4 3:15 but I kinda find that hard to believe my self, especially he claims his 60ft was 2.0 deep 12's with 2.0 60 means its basically a deep 11 second car and mathematically if he got it down to a 1.5 60ft the car would run deep 11's and possibly a 10. I think he is full of you know what. There has to be more done to the car? here is the link to the video. Also ptc told me the stall was custom built likely to his application 600 hp turbo
they said that the stall would be lower on my car because it is stock power and noted I would be lucky if it is at full stall 2800rpm
I do plan to run a power adder eventually so it does not bother me. I would just like to expand my knowledge of converters.
So basically what he is saying it all depends on power, weight, and gear ratio. So if you buy an off the shelf converter say 4000 stall it actually could be 2400 stall?

 

Your letting $500 burn a hole in your pocket.
Don't buy anything. Save and put the extra money to better
use buying speed parts. Try to consolidate and you won't need as
many tunes. Good luck.

 

Kinda overlooked that---Yes I agree 3500 is a bit much for a street driven car with a 3.15--You will be chasing heat in city traffic all the time--
Call PTC and see what they will charge you to re-stall it to 3000
Most places charge like $150 -200 --Not bad considering it's cost was likely close to a $1000
3000 is the most popular all round street/strip choice


What do you guys think I will be running in the 1/4?
obviously I will install dot slicks before I go to the track.
so bone stock 3500 stall and drag tires.
I found this video and claims to be 3600 stall and same gear as me a4 3:15 but I kinda find that hard to believe my self, especially he claims his 60ft was 2.0 deep 12's with 2.0 60 means its basically a deep 11 second car and mathematically if he got it down to a 1.5 60ft the car would run deep 11's and possibly a 10. I think he is full of you know what. There has to be more done to the car? here is the link to the video.

Seems a little odd--2.0 60' means it's not a hard leaver yet it ran a 12.17--But then only ran 104 MPH ???? The quickness has to come from somewhere---104 MPH indicates less than 400 RWHP --more like 350-375---- I suspect NOS was used-- Like you said and were told a n engine with only 350 RWHP with a 3600 stall will stall LOWER--more like 3000 or so-- so it doesn't make sense---
As a example on my 1998----
Patriot LS6 heads
.221/.224 cam
LT headers
Fast intake
16" custom wheels and drag radials
3.42 gears
3000 Stall
all the usual bolt ons
approx. 400 RWP
My average times were-----114 MPH-----12.06 1.80 60'

 

OR, put it on the bottle for just a little more $$.

 

 

SLICKS on a STOCK drive train C5!

Brother,, You are asking for trouble! The C5 drivetrain is happy at the HP you have now. When you start increasing HP/TQ, the stock rear tires are the FUSE.
When you increase the traction, the differential parts become the FUSE!

If you add HP modifications and sticky tires, you will either BUST a differential output shaft OR split the differential case in half.

The first time you experience WHEEL HOT or Drive train shake, you better get off the accelerator quick!!

I doubt you will get any lower than mid 13 sec to high 13 sec 1/4.


In my honest opinion, Save more cash, collect some good used parts like:

-A VARARAM Cold Air Intake
-2001+ Intake manifold
-Your Stall converter and cooler
-New Torque tube Rubber Couplers (yours are most likely SHOT!)
-C6 ZO6 Differential parts (output shafts, clutches and Belleview limited slip clutch springs.
Long Tube headers
C6 ZO6 Shocks Unless you have new shocks, yours are SHOT!
Then get a professional tune

Here is some light reading on those differential up-grades:

- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966




Bill

 

Little late I purchased the converter. I will defiantly be looking for those upgrades in the very near future. I can typically afford $500-$1000 a month in toy money. I went through the 1/4 quick list and seems a lot of people either don't have those parts or just don't have them listed. Really I would be very happy if I can get the car to run 11's and be reliable just around town spray or no spray. But thanks for the heads up on the tires I will keep what I got until I do the recommended upgrades. I am always a guy that looks for the deals and never really in a rush to buy unless I know its a good deal. This guy has all the paper work etc and said the total bill was over $700 so I just couldn't pass it up. Especially with everyone saying it was by far the best mod they ever did. He also claims I can get 1 restall for free? idk about that.

 

A little more advice for saving drivetrain parts

Air your tires up a couple pounds & work your way down until you start hooking (with some spin)

Track conditions chance everyday, if you start out low & dead hook with stock parts, you're sure to break something. (hopefully just an axle)

 

11s Hmmmmmmm,, Well,, Thats a little tougher that it sounds. Your car stock has about 280-300 RWHP. A stock ZO6 has 340-360 RWHP

Heres what I did in the past and how it worked out:

First round of mods for my 02 ZO6 with a stock 3:42 rear: Added a Complete Stainless Works exhaust system with high flow CATs and 3" mid pipe and cat back, Ported LS6 Throttle Body, Vararam and a professional tune. RWHP = 385 Tq 275 With crappy street tires, best track time 1/4 mile 12.45 @118 mph

Four years later I get whipped by a modded WRX, Screw THAT! I added: A ported FAST 90/90mm TB, Patriot Performance ported heads @ 12.5:1 compression, Cam =240/240 114+4 610 lift comp cams, C6 differential up-grade, ECS Brace, and a new tune. Netted 450 RWHP.

Had to add new SPEC Twin Disk Clutch, C6 ZO6 shocks, CCW 505a 11.5 inch wide rims with 315/25/ZR19 rims and TOYO Proxis tires. That will put you in the 11s easily!

I HATE WRXs

Bill

 

If you want to learn---and get experienced advice----Listen to Bill of myself----When you get into the 400 RWHP range- and want traction-you will break something most likely an output shaft- So you have to decide--Do you have the $$$ to be quick or do you want a daily driver--You can't have both unless you beef up the drivetrain---Yes a stall will make you faster but as I said and did Bill you are at maybe 350 RWHP--- the limit of a stock C5---make it 400 RWHP ?? and with traction of slicks--you WILL get wheel hop and break something--
Time slips are one thing to show off to your buddies---But winning a race these days in bracket racing as you will do--winning a race means having the car do the same thing every pass and being consistent regardless of your time slip----As far as I know there is NO throphy for a fast time slip--but only for winning a race----you decide where you want to be---