I have two electronic component questions.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34,479
Likes: 532
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
I have two electronic component questions.
I want to do some work on my dash / keyless entry this weekend but before I open it I need parts numbers for two items.
Yes, I did search for about 15 minutes, didn't see what I wanted.
Car is a 98 Vert.
First, my keyless entry isn't very reliable, I suspect the relays are getting old and weak. Does anyone know what the relay numbers are for those PBC mount relays that control the door locks and trunk release?
Second, I've got a few of the tiny 12v lights out in my dash. Ones in the HVAC head unit and 2 on the control buttons (fuel/gauges/E-M/options/reset... buttons). I'm pretty sure they're the same bulbs. Anyone know a part number for those?
Any help is appreciated. TIA
Yes, I did search for about 15 minutes, didn't see what I wanted.
Car is a 98 Vert.
First, my keyless entry isn't very reliable, I suspect the relays are getting old and weak. Does anyone know what the relay numbers are for those PBC mount relays that control the door locks and trunk release?
Second, I've got a few of the tiny 12v lights out in my dash. Ones in the HVAC head unit and 2 on the control buttons (fuel/gauges/E-M/options/reset... buttons). I'm pretty sure they're the same bulbs. Anyone know a part number for those?
Any help is appreciated. TIA
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,183
Likes: 4,178
From: Kannapolis NC
I want to do some work on my dash / keyless entry this weekend but before I open it I need parts numbers for two items.
Yes, I did search for about 15 minutes, didn't see what I wanted.
Car is a 98 Vert.
First, my keyless entry isn't very reliable, I suspect the relays are getting old and weak. Does anyone know what the relay numbers are for those PBC mount relays that control the door locks and trunk release?
Second, I've got a few of the tiny 12v lights out in my dash. Ones in the HVAC head unit and 2 on the control buttons (fuel/gauges/E-M/options/reset... buttons). I'm pretty sure they're the same bulbs. Anyone know a part number for those?
Any help is appreciated. TIA
Yes, I did search for about 15 minutes, didn't see what I wanted.
Car is a 98 Vert.
First, my keyless entry isn't very reliable, I suspect the relays are getting old and weak. Does anyone know what the relay numbers are for those PBC mount relays that control the door locks and trunk release?
Second, I've got a few of the tiny 12v lights out in my dash. Ones in the HVAC head unit and 2 on the control buttons (fuel/gauges/E-M/options/reset... buttons). I'm pretty sure they're the same bulbs. Anyone know a part number for those?
Any help is appreciated. TIA
The keyless doesn't use any additional relays than the push buttons on the door. If the door buttons are good, relays won't help your keyless. The unreliability of the remotes will be inside the remote keyless fob electronics.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...90790515,d.eXY
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34,479
Likes: 532
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
The keyless doesn't use any additional relays than the push buttons on the door. If the door buttons are good, relays won't help your keyless. The unreliability of the remotes will be inside the remote keyless fob electronics.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...90790515,d.eXY
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...90790515,d.eXY
I'll open my fob and give it a good going over with a soldering iron tonight. Thanks for the tip.
Still need to figure out what bulbs to buy...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,121
Likes: 31
From: Jacksonville Florida
When I cleaned the contacts on my ignition this past weekend and cleaned all of my ground points I noticed that my keyless worked better as well as my fuel door pops open stronger.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34,479
Likes: 532
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
I did a new ignition switch last year so I want to say that's not an issue. Who knows...
I did find the LINK REMOVED $0.49/ea plus shipping.
Scratch that, those are the wrong bulbs. Need T1, not T1-3/4.
Get THESE bulbs instead. They are slightly smaller dia than the originals, but smaller works where bigger does not. The OEMs were about .160" dia, these are supposed to be .125", we'll see when I get them if they work. T1-3/4 are about .200 dia
I did find the LINK REMOVED $0.49/ea plus shipping.
Scratch that, those are the wrong bulbs. Need T1, not T1-3/4.
Get THESE bulbs instead. They are slightly smaller dia than the originals, but smaller works where bigger does not. The OEMs were about .160" dia, these are supposed to be .125", we'll see when I get them if they work. T1-3/4 are about .200 dia
Last edited by K-Spaz; May 10, 2015 at 04:21 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,121
Likes: 31
From: Jacksonville Florida
I did a new ignition switch last year so I want to say that's not an issue. Who knows...
I did find the bulbs for the dash. $0.49/ea plus shipping.
I did find the bulbs for the dash. $0.49/ea plus shipping.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34,479
Likes: 532
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
The whole switch.
(edit) Now that I think about it, I think the tumbler needed ported over to the new one. I seem to recall removing that and putting it in the new switch.
I don't honestly recall... 
I just got done with the soldering project and I do have to say the fob appears to be more reliable. I think I have a small issue with the Passive button because it unlocked when I walked up to it. I've had that before where even when the switch is in the off position, it's still making contact and in passive mode. Other than that, that issue appears resolved. I need to open it again and see if I can't get that switch lined up better.
Thanks 65GGvert
(edit) Now that I think about it, I think the tumbler needed ported over to the new one. I seem to recall removing that and putting it in the new switch.
I don't honestly recall... I just got done with the soldering project and I do have to say the fob appears to be more reliable. I think I have a small issue with the Passive button because it unlocked when I walked up to it. I've had that before where even when the switch is in the off position, it's still making contact and in passive mode. Other than that, that issue appears resolved. I need to open it again and see if I can't get that switch lined up better.
Thanks 65GGvert
