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Got the Valeo 439217 installed this afternoon on my 01 Z06 .Identical to the gm 110 amp and has the non decoupler pulley.for the stick shift. Seems to be working great..Thought being a 01, I should probably just scrap it but its still a nice driving car.
Got the Valeo 439217 installed this afternoon on my 01 Z06 .Identical to the gm 110 amp and has the non decoupler pulley.for the stick shift. Seems to be working great..Thought being a 01, I should probably just scrap it but its still a nice driving car.
I was a little bit of sarcasm over some of the hate the 01 gets here. I haven't drove it in a while and took it for a test run Sunday after I put the altenator on and actaully thought to myself this is just a damn good riding and driving car.
Got the Valeo 439217 installed this afternoon on my 01 Z06 .Identical to the gm 110 amp and has the non decoupler pulley.for the stick shift. Seems to be working great..Thought being a 01, I should probably just scrap it but its still a nice driving car.
is it still working without causing the code? Im dealing with the charge system fault code still from a aftermarket alternator
Got the Valeo 439217 installed this afternoon on my 01 Z06 .Identical to the gm 110 amp and has the non decoupler pulley.for the stick shift. Seems to be working great..Thought being a 01, I should probably just scrap it but its still a nice driving car.
Scrap a car over a bad alternator?? I'll take it off your hands, and you can keep the alternator!!! Just more sarcasm!!
The performance shop I've worked with on my supercharged LS3 transplant engine suggests Mechman alternators as a great choice due to the extra load a cammed and supercharged engine has on a stock alternator. However, if you're stock and don't have any additional performance parts, including high-end audio components, the OEM rebuilt option is probably best.
The performance shop I've worked with on my supercharged LS3 transplant engine suggests Mechman alternators as a great choice due to the extra load a cammed and supercharged engine has on a stock alternator.
Extra load as in what? Mechanical load on the pulley?
[QUOTE=lucky131969;1609186815].....all these years, I never knew there was a negative connotation with 2001 Corvette [/QUOTE
may not be on the coupe or vert and may not be as bad here as it was but the 01 Z06 gets treated like a red headed step child.
Hi Xecelerator, that's good news that you got this working!!!
I had several follow-up quesions:
a) Is the Valeo 439217 that you got equivalent to the OEM GM P/N 10246634 alternator (I presume that was the P/N that you removed, as you have an 01 manual)?
b) Where did you get yours? Rock Auto seems to be popular from what I see, as it sounds like some places (like Amazon) are selling equivalents that don't work properly. This one seems to be an authentic Valeo alternator that would (of course) have the required Valeo regulator that doesn't trip the fault code.
c) Question for the group...is it possible to buy just a Valeo regulator and use on the (incorrect) Delco 334-1280 alternator? My research doesn't show if one can simply change out the regulator. I'm stuck, as I already purchased the (wrong) alternator, no longer have the original that I could have gotten remanufactured, and am faced with buying a new Valeo alternator or (preferably) seeing if I can swap out the regulator. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Found a Valeo 439217 alternator on AutoZone: Autozone alternator, which looks like it would work for the 2001 MN6 (no decoupler). Strangely though, it has a note that says 180 amps, rather than the 110A or 145A units that I would have expected. While extra current shouldn't cause any problems, I am concerned that this might have a different pulley size to drive the higher current. Anyone have experience using this part as a replacement alternator (without tripping the charge fault code)?
Cheers
Jason
Found a Valeo 439217 alternator on AutoZone: Autozone alternator, which looks like it would work for the 2001 MN6 (no decoupler). Strangely though, it has a note that says 180 amps, rather than the 110A or 145A units that I would have expected. While extra current shouldn't cause any problems, I am concerned that this might have a different pulley size to drive the higher current. Anyone have experience using this part as a replacement alternator (without tripping the charge fault code)?
Cheers
Jason
You’ve got the amps bit wrong. Amps are drawn by the other systems. They are not generated by the alternator. So the one you have can keep up with a 180 amp draw without overloading.
eg. your high beams draw 20amps. With a 180a alternator you would still have 160a available draw before overloading.
unless you were to add say an electric water pump that draws say 30amps, which was never accounted for by the engineers, you don’t need an overbuilt alternator.
Higher amp rated alternators use heavier construction, and make a stronger magnetic field which adds resistance to rotating, that can actually take more hp to operate, robbing available hp away from the driveline. Just use the properly amp rated alternator.
Last edited by Gorn Captain; Apr 6, 2026 at 11:36 AM.