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C5 oil pressure switch bad?

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Old May 4, 2015 | 07:40 AM
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Default C5 oil pressure switch bad?

suddenly my oil pressure gauge is reading 80 psi. it is also like this with the engine off but key on. it normally is about 40 or so with engine running. oil level is correct. i am guessing it is bad. just want other opinions. also where is it located?
thanks in advance for the replies.
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Old May 4, 2015 | 08:08 AM
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Common problem, the sensor is located in back of the intake manifold. Couple different ways to replace it lots of threads on it
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/1817090-updated-again-8-25-13-ultimate-diy-faq-thread-it-s-all-in-here.html
Post number 73
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Old May 4, 2015 | 09:54 AM
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Yup bad OPS... replace/relocate

1 take it to a professional have it replaced.
2 replace it yourself.

Methods

The SNEAK in there and get it method

The REMOVE the intake method...

The Access hole in the wiper tray method...
Had a hard time find good info on this method....weird, been lots of post on it, and it can be done neatly... this isn't the best link, but gives you an idea of what can be done...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...placement.html

Relocation is recommended with any method... the OPS lives in a very unfriendly environment and will be happier when relocated.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...c5-oil-sender-

Last edited by 73Corvette; May 4, 2015 at 10:07 AM.
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Old May 5, 2015 | 12:00 PM
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My wife and I pulled the manifold and did mine twice. I found the wiring harness from the factory was short and putting a lot of stress on the top of the sender. I did an F15 wiring repair and put a stress relief loop in the harness so there is no tension on the unit and it has worked great since then. WARNING use OEM replacement part on this. I ordered one and it was missing the gasket so I went bought napa part and installed, Wow was the pressure reading off, might be ok for a truck. I put OEM back on and it was exact pressure
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Old May 5, 2015 | 02:02 PM
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Which ever method you choose to replace your OPS... I would still highly recommend relocating it... it will live a long and productive life!
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Old May 6, 2015 | 05:29 PM
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Get the brass sensor from O'Reilly's (~$40), not the OEM from a dealer- it's much better, more reliable.
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Old May 6, 2015 | 07:24 PM
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I would take the extra time and do the relocation, will make the next time you change it a snap, and trust me it will happen again.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1562145914

I did the relocation and used the buick sender part # 12584940 and have had no problems.

Last edited by Navybluevette; May 7, 2015 at 08:59 AM.
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Old May 6, 2015 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jimcork1
My wife and I pulled the manifold and did mine twice. I found the wiring harness from the factory was short and putting a lot of stress on the top of the sender. I did an F15 wiring repair and put a stress relief loop in the harness so there is no tension on the unit and it has worked great since then. WARNING use OEM replacement part on this. I ordered one and it was missing the gasket so I went bought napa part and installed, Wow was the pressure reading off, might be ok for a truck. I put OEM back on and it was exact pressure
i generally agree with this line of thinking

the ac delco sensor is fine, but, the borg warner one orileys sells has also proven to be very reliable
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Old May 9, 2015 | 08:42 AM
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The key to longevity is to not over torque the new one.
IIRC the spec if 15 ft-lbs.... take it to that level in 3 steps.....
10, 12,15....
My replacement lasted over 40K (s)miles in my '01 before I sold it.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 09:56 AM
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Mine went at about 40K original miles. Since I was just starting the engine build I did the relocation and used a brass unit from O'Riellys. It is now up on the side of the manifold (drivers side) for easy access should it fail again.

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Old May 9, 2015 | 10:38 AM
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Looks nice... good decision!
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 08:29 AM
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ok, i got the new switch. i read and watched the videos you guys posted. i removed the plastic covers and still can't see the switch let alone touch/reach it. i don't want to remove the intake to do this. can i remove the wiper cover somehow to get to the switch? btw, this is still the original switch that is bad at 120K miles.
thanks a lot.
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 10:59 AM
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It is very tight back there. Many people cant get to it as is so they CUT a hole in the wiper tray. I wouldnt hack my car like that. I removed the intake manifold and replaced the gaskets while I had it off. It is an easy job to do.
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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by TwinTurboZ51
It is very tight back there. Many people cant get to it as is so they CUT a hole in the wiper tray. I wouldnt hack my car like that. I removed the intake manifold and replaced the gaskets while I had it off. It is an easy job to do.
Easy is a relative term when it comes to in home garage repair. While I've done breaks including bleeding, installed my own coilover's, replaced all the fluids, installed an electric water pump and various other items I chose not to take on the OPS. When my OPS went out I took it to a local shop and had them take that item on. I had them also install the relocation kit for next time as well so I can do it with out removing the intake.

Bottom line it is all in what you feel comfortable doing. The folks here give excellent advice and can help you through any repair you need to do. Some are professional car guys and others are hobbyists. It is all in what you are comfortable in doing and how much you want to stretch in you mechanical comfort zone.

Good Luck
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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 06:45 PM
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Cutting an access hole under the wiper cowl cover... doesn't have to be a "hack" job, it can be done neatly and then sealed up nicely... the wiper cowling covers it anyway and unless you REALLY look for it you'll never know it was ever done...whatever method you use to or have the OPS replaced it's a GOOD idea to RELOCATE... it LIVES in a VERY Hostile environment and will live longer in a new cooler location.
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