2001 cuts off
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 162
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville Tennessee
2001 cuts off
Need Help bad. My 2001 cranks up and idles O.K. but when you put into 1st gear and let out on then clutch it will go about 5 feet and then shuts off. The car has 41,000 miles on it. It has been several months since it was cranked up. The car was low on gas at the time so I put about 5 gallons in it, 93 octane. Checked out the after-market filter and appears to be ok. Checked out to see if there were and codes and had 2 on the HVAC that I could not clear. aside from that no codes and no check- engine light. No problems cranking or just sitting running. I ran it up to about 3,000 RPM's and it is ok, but when I let out on the clutch it dies. Can anyone help me. the car has never given me any problems in the pass. e-mail is oxfordsj@yahoo.com CVETGO
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 162
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Reply to 2001 Cuts Off
Certainly sounds like the column lock 2mph fuel shutoff to me. Pull and post ALL the codes including the H or C or HC that follow each 5 character code. If you don't know how to pull codes here is how:
OR
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
Do you have any messages displaying on the DIC like " Pull Key and wait....." or "Service Column Lock" when you attempt to drive the car??
OR
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
Do you have any messages displaying on the DIC like " Pull Key and wait....." or "Service Column Lock" when you attempt to drive the car??
All codes are clear except for 1- 99 HVAC 1 code BO 338 HC
Can you help me ??
Uneducated autodidact
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,410
Likes: 250
From: West of the Sabine, Texas
What you need can be found here:
http://complianceparts.com/
Easy to install, and will resolve your issue.
http://complianceparts.com/
Easy to install, and will resolve your issue.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
I consider the LMC5 to be the best Column Lock problem permanent fix out there. It also does not require you to “undo” any previous CL attempts to resolve this issue. Their eBay ads have a good video that shows the install at the BCM. It does not cover everything in the written instructions. So, read the instructions and also here is some extra info. In some cases, the BCM timing is off just enough to cause some issues. They make several versions and they can swap out/provide one of these if you have any issues. Their customer support is as good as it gets.
Not uncommon for people to "put the column in a pre-lock condition" and not know it and then start with the install. In other words, they started with the column lock “energized’ even if it was not actually locked yet. If not actually locked yet, it will be as soon as you turn the steering wheel after the LMC5 install. It will then remain in the locked condition until you cause the motor to unlock. It will then remain in the unlocked condition since the motor is then unpowered with the circuits disconnected.
Here is one way to prevent that if your column locks and unlocks normally:
If the CL is functioning normally you don't not need the Unlocker, merely turn the ignition ON, pull fuse #23 in the I/P fuse box, turn ignition OFF, turn the steering wheel (left and right) and verify it is unlocked. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal, re-insert fuse #23 and continue with the install.
Compliance Parts website: http://complianceparts.com/index.html
Not uncommon for people to "put the column in a pre-lock condition" and not know it and then start with the install. In other words, they started with the column lock “energized’ even if it was not actually locked yet. If not actually locked yet, it will be as soon as you turn the steering wheel after the LMC5 install. It will then remain in the locked condition until you cause the motor to unlock. It will then remain in the unlocked condition since the motor is then unpowered with the circuits disconnected.
Here is one way to prevent that if your column locks and unlocks normally:
If the CL is functioning normally you don't not need the Unlocker, merely turn the ignition ON, pull fuse #23 in the I/P fuse box, turn ignition OFF, turn the steering wheel (left and right) and verify it is unlocked. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal, re-insert fuse #23 and continue with the install.
Compliance Parts website: http://complianceparts.com/index.html
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 162
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Reply to 8vettez
you are experiencing the gm column lock 2mph fuel shutoff symptoms that result from a low battery.
Order and install the lmc5 as suggested above. That will solve the symptoms for certain.
But the cause of your symptoms is a weak or bad battery or loose or corroded battery cable including at the starter.
The car starts with a no load battery voltage of 12.2 volts or less but the cars electronics, especially the column lock electronics, are not happy with a no load voltage of 12.5 volts or less. No load voltage is the voltage measured across the battery posts using a digital multi-meter with the neg battery cable disconnected. You cannot use the dash voltage gauges to tell you the state of health of the battery. They tell you the state of health of the charging system. With engine running you read the approximate output voltage of the alternator. With engine off and key on the reading is near worthless since many electrical circuits in the c5 can be loading the battery. Having voltage after the car starts from the alternator doesn't help the column lock since that function runs before the engine starts so voltage with the engine running is too late.
Suggest that you address the battery issue while you are waiting for the lmc5 to arrive......
Order and install the lmc5 as suggested above. That will solve the symptoms for certain.
But the cause of your symptoms is a weak or bad battery or loose or corroded battery cable including at the starter.
The car starts with a no load battery voltage of 12.2 volts or less but the cars electronics, especially the column lock electronics, are not happy with a no load voltage of 12.5 volts or less. No load voltage is the voltage measured across the battery posts using a digital multi-meter with the neg battery cable disconnected. You cannot use the dash voltage gauges to tell you the state of health of the battery. They tell you the state of health of the charging system. With engine running you read the approximate output voltage of the alternator. With engine off and key on the reading is near worthless since many electrical circuits in the c5 can be loading the battery. Having voltage after the car starts from the alternator doesn't help the column lock since that function runs before the engine starts so voltage with the engine running is too late.
Suggest that you address the battery issue while you are waiting for the lmc5 to arrive......
Thanks again
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
Maybe this will help:
A fully charged battery should be 12.6v or more.
It's not 12 volts it's 12.6 because each cell is 2.1 volts.
If the battery is
12.5 = 85% charged
12.4 = 65%
12.3 = 50%
12.2 = 35%
12.1 = drained
A fully charged battery should be 12.6v or more.
It's not 12 volts it's 12.6 because each cell is 2.1 volts.
If the battery is
12.5 = 85% charged
12.4 = 65%
12.3 = 50%
12.2 = 35%
12.1 = drained
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,644
Likes: 479
From: OK
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