I recently installed a cam and heads in my base c5. When i first started it, it was fine. The next day, rain water got into the engine bay for a good 5-10 seconds. After that the car gave me a message saying "pull key wait 10 seconds" did that then started it and it idled at about 500rpm and gave me reduced engine power, service engine, services abs, traction sys, low voltage and a couple other random messages. Also my radio never shuts off, and it starts without the clutch being pressed down. It doesnt seem like water has anything to do with this but i thought i'd throw that in just incase it helps.
Engine Codes:
P1638 Generator F-Terminal Circut
P0108 MAP or BARO Pressure Signal High (Don't think this is related)
There are other codes but these are the only ones i caught. I can get you guys the other ones if it helps.

Please give me some advise guys, thank you

 

Looks like some of the low battery voltage symptoms... the pull key is usually associated with the Column Lock..
I'd pull the kick panel on the passenger footwell and make sure you didn't get some water intrusion to the BCM...

 

Charging the battery usually does it, maybe belts were wet and slipping?

 

Your inviting trouble if you don't have a GOOD battery... and sounds like you need to get an LMC5 module for your column lock issue

http://www.complianceparts.com/lmc5whoneeds1.html

 

you sure you re-installed all the grounds? is the maf plugged in and facing the right way?

 

I'm pretty sure. I checked and rechecked the ground on the back of the driver side head, left and right engine grounds and the two on the front frame rails. Are there any others i don't know about? i also never removed the maf, so theres no chance of it facing the wrong way

 

and i'm assuming the "pull key wait 10 seconds" has nothing to do with my others problems? its just a column lock failure? the steering wheel isn't locked or anything though? i guess i should just wait until i fix my other problems and see if the colomn lock still exists

 

the z06 I just bought was doing the same thing "pull key wait 10 seconds", I did the bypass it is gone, On the drivers side of the intake manifold there is a a purge solenoid for the fuel tank if its not plugged in (electric connector) it can cause reduce power and no start condition, "if" it was not plugged in plug it in and open the fuel tank cap to release the pressure then try and start it. I forgot to plug it in and found out the hard way

pics from toque's web site (part with the green cap)


but i dont think it would cause all the other problems your having with the radio and starting with out the clutch, IIRC there was a ground on the passenger side rear head

 

If your having problems reading the DTCs, you are not doing it correctly. Get in to the MANUAL MODE and examine them ALL. Post what you have. If there are tons of DTCs, CLEAR them and start the car again. If there's issues,,, the CODES will be back... Trust me!!!

TRY THIS!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes


The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!