Failed CA SMOG test with high NOx
UPDATE: FIXED!
I think this whole problem was due to the oiled K&N air filter. I ended up removing the MAF sensor to clean it and it was filthy. Sprayed it down really well with MAF sensor cleaner and light use of q-tips. I also installed a new regular non-oiled type of air filter.
Going back to what someone else mentioned about the SMOG (AIR) pump being clogged, I also removed it and checked it out. That was a pain to get to! It looked gummed up as well, likely from the air filter oil. I found a reman pump at the local auto parts store and installed it.
I drove it around for a bit after this, then went back to the SMOG station. I had the guy do a simulation on the dyno first, unofficial results, and the NOx went way down, less than 200. Looked promising so I had him SMOG it and finally passed!
I held off on clearing codes and resetting the PCM since it would have taken too long to be "emissions ready" again. Now that I passed the test, I have since pulled the fuses and reset the PCM so it can relearn better idle and fuel trim values with the clean MAF.
Thank you all for the help and I hope this thread helps someone else in the future.
I think this whole problem was due to the oiled K&N air filter. I ended up removing the MAF sensor to clean it and it was filthy. Sprayed it down really well with MAF sensor cleaner and light use of q-tips. I also installed a new regular non-oiled type of air filter.
Going back to what someone else mentioned about the SMOG (AIR) pump being clogged, I also removed it and checked it out. That was a pain to get to! It looked gummed up as well, likely from the air filter oil. I found a reman pump at the local auto parts store and installed it.
I drove it around for a bit after this, then went back to the SMOG station. I had the guy do a simulation on the dyno first, unofficial results, and the NOx went way down, less than 200. Looked promising so I had him SMOG it and finally passed!
I held off on clearing codes and resetting the PCM since it would have taken too long to be "emissions ready" again. Now that I passed the test, I have since pulled the fuses and reset the PCM so it can relearn better idle and fuel trim values with the clean MAF.
Thank you all for the help and I hope this thread helps someone else in the future.
Glad it went well in the end.
I recognized the hose you pictured, why? because it is an eighty three dollar hose. For me at least/ Now someone will post how they can get them all day long for a couple of bucks.
I was moving my oil pressure sensor, and decided that any old rubber that cracked or broke in the process was brittle and needed replacing anyway. The car is old and could use fresh rubber.
I found out this was not the best approach, or even a half good one, when I went looking for replacements of the stuff I tore up. ONe hose was expensive, another I had to fabricate, no longer available.
I even tried to glue the pricey hose, since it only used to briefly blow air on start up. That was a fail. At least the part was available.
See ya down the road.
I recognized the hose you pictured, why? because it is an eighty three dollar hose. For me at least/ Now someone will post how they can get them all day long for a couple of bucks.
I was moving my oil pressure sensor, and decided that any old rubber that cracked or broke in the process was brittle and needed replacing anyway. The car is old and could use fresh rubber.
I found out this was not the best approach, or even a half good one, when I went looking for replacements of the stuff I tore up. ONe hose was expensive, another I had to fabricate, no longer available.
I even tried to glue the pricey hose, since it only used to briefly blow air on start up. That was a fail. At least the part was available.
See ya down the road.
Tech Contributor





Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Go back and CLEAR ALL the DTCs.
That way, you start off with a fresh "NO DTCs in the DIC" . When you read them at a later date, you know that its a new and relevant DTC if you see any.
Just disconnecting and reconnecting the battery normally causes random DTCs to set.
Bill
That way, you start off with a fresh "NO DTCs in the DIC" . When you read them at a later date, you know that its a new and relevant DTC if you see any.
Just disconnecting and reconnecting the battery normally causes random DTCs to set.
Bill
Go back and CLEAR ALL the DTCs.
That way, you start off with a fresh "NO DTCs in the DIC" . When you read them at a later date, you know that its a new and relevant DTC if you see any.
Just disconnecting and reconnecting the battery normally causes random DTCs to set.
Bill
That way, you start off with a fresh "NO DTCs in the DIC" . When you read them at a later date, you know that its a new and relevant DTC if you see any.
Just disconnecting and reconnecting the battery normally causes random DTCs to set.
Bill
When I got to work, I then cleared all the error codes. Ive since driven it around more and checked again, no codes present.
Looks like its all reset.
Tech Contributor





Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
A bad PVC hose and the A. I. R. System are totally different animals. The A I R pump only runs for (approx) 90 seconds at start up and for a few minutes when the PCM determines it needs to test the system and the catalytic converter system. If you have a torn or cracked PVC system, you will get those emissions failures.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Oct 25, 2023 at 11:56 AM.













