I got a cheap Corvette, or did I?
#1
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I got a cheap Corvette, or did I?
I am a Finance Director at Chevrolet Dealership in North Alabama. I am a Corvette enthusiast but never had an opportunity to get one without feeling guilty with 3 young children. Until now! I had a customer trade one in that I scooped up for $2000. It is a 99 coupe with 157k miles in clean condition cosmetically probably 80% + or -. However, when the previous owner took it to be "fixed" some shade tree mechanic lopped off some of the wires going to the BCM, put an incompatible alternator on it, ran a cd changer directly to the ignition, cut off the steering control lock and destroyed it. It would not exceed 1 mph when I bought it.
My mechanic was able to fix the steering lock by replacing it, he fixed the charging system / alternator and battery, he was able to get it running and shifting (manual 6 spd) perfectly. HOWEVER: I am having electrical issues intermittently, lights and warnings that seem to be irrelevant to system performance etc, it ran without a code for 2 weeks until it rained then WHAMMY!
It says "reduced engine power (not really reduced), Service Vehicle Soon, Service Traction Control System, The ABS light comes on along with the check engine light" most times I can just turn it off and back on and all is well. Today the windshield wipers went crazy and the blower motor quit the first day it ran.
Sorry to go long, I am digging into this material on the forum and my technician,Corvette certified thru GM at the dealership, is meeting me here Saturday to help. If anyone can give me as much advice or leads to threads as possible I will be forever grateful!
I finally got a vette but I am about $921 into the service bill and I realy do not want it to climb much higher.
----edit---solution--------
I started this thread thinking I had one MAJOR problem. It turns out I had 3-4 smaller problems. Mostly related to the main serial data buss. Thanks to Bill Curlee, 8VETTE7, and others, I was able to get most of the problems resolved. Here is what we found.
As for the reduced engine power, service traction control, ABS lights and the Christmas Tree warnings in the dash (31 codes total) followed steps outlined on the forum by Bill Curlee and 8VETTE7 and cleaned the star connectors beside the BCM, I cleaned and straigntened out the pins (male and female)in the plugs inside the door accordion of the passenger door, and I cleaned and straightened out the pins (female only) on the ground chassis connector g202 inside the A pillar at the bottom of the passenger door. In doing these 3 steps I also corrected the passenger door window and door lock that were inoperable at the time.
****9-12-15 Last problem solved: Blower Motor inoperable and will not come on at any speed.
I have previously stated that several members of the forum (thanks guys!) and I were totally stumped as to why we could not get power to the blower motor. After replacing the resistor and the blower motor I was convinced hope was lost. Well, I was wrong. I had a local tech (AMAZING GUY) tune my car in Huntsville AL. He was able to diagnose and fix the problem with relative ease. It turned out to be a relay (part 2-DR1069 R 3109) it cost me $13 to replace.
My mechanic was able to fix the steering lock by replacing it, he fixed the charging system / alternator and battery, he was able to get it running and shifting (manual 6 spd) perfectly. HOWEVER: I am having electrical issues intermittently, lights and warnings that seem to be irrelevant to system performance etc, it ran without a code for 2 weeks until it rained then WHAMMY!
It says "reduced engine power (not really reduced), Service Vehicle Soon, Service Traction Control System, The ABS light comes on along with the check engine light" most times I can just turn it off and back on and all is well. Today the windshield wipers went crazy and the blower motor quit the first day it ran.
Sorry to go long, I am digging into this material on the forum and my technician,Corvette certified thru GM at the dealership, is meeting me here Saturday to help. If anyone can give me as much advice or leads to threads as possible I will be forever grateful!
I finally got a vette but I am about $921 into the service bill and I realy do not want it to climb much higher.
----edit---solution--------
I started this thread thinking I had one MAJOR problem. It turns out I had 3-4 smaller problems. Mostly related to the main serial data buss. Thanks to Bill Curlee, 8VETTE7, and others, I was able to get most of the problems resolved. Here is what we found.
As for the reduced engine power, service traction control, ABS lights and the Christmas Tree warnings in the dash (31 codes total) followed steps outlined on the forum by Bill Curlee and 8VETTE7 and cleaned the star connectors beside the BCM, I cleaned and straigntened out the pins (male and female)in the plugs inside the door accordion of the passenger door, and I cleaned and straightened out the pins (female only) on the ground chassis connector g202 inside the A pillar at the bottom of the passenger door. In doing these 3 steps I also corrected the passenger door window and door lock that were inoperable at the time.
****9-12-15 Last problem solved: Blower Motor inoperable and will not come on at any speed.
I have previously stated that several members of the forum (thanks guys!) and I were totally stumped as to why we could not get power to the blower motor. After replacing the resistor and the blower motor I was convinced hope was lost. Well, I was wrong. I had a local tech (AMAZING GUY) tune my car in Huntsville AL. He was able to diagnose and fix the problem with relative ease. It turned out to be a relay (part 2-DR1069 R 3109) it cost me $13 to replace.
Last edited by csmoore88; 09-12-2015 at 02:25 PM. Reason: Posting solutions
#3
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St. Jude Donor '08
Is or was your BCM/ passengers floor wet??
BC
#4
Advanced
Thread Starter
before I got it? I don't know. I replace the BCM 3 weeks ago, but that did not affect it much. The day it started going crazy again the floorboard did get wet from rain. I had been driving it over a week with no codes. It runs and drives out good, but when the lights all come on it looks like a Christmas tree on my dashboard. And the windshield wipers go kind of crazy.
#5
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St. Jude Donor '08
If you don't solve the water issue,,,, order the BCMs by the DOZEN,,, That way there most likely less money if you order them in BULK.
Next,,
READ and POST your DTCs
That going to tell us LOADS of good info. You MAY just have a serial data corruption problem that we need to sort out.
The water issue MUST be fixed FIRST!!!
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.
Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:
http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html
Next,,
READ and POST your DTCs
That going to tell us LOADS of good info. You MAY just have a serial data corruption problem that we need to sort out.
The water issue MUST be fixed FIRST!!!
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.
Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:
http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html
#6
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St. Jude Donor '08
When you run the AC,,, does the condensation from the HVAC Air Box run out from under the passengers area UNDER the body??
If NOT, you have a CLOGGED HVAC Condensate Drain and that can case the same water in the passengers foot well/on the BCM
BC
If NOT, you have a CLOGGED HVAC Condensate Drain and that can case the same water in the passengers foot well/on the BCM
BC
#7
Advanced
Thread Starter
thank you
I have trolled the net for a few days to gather as much info as I can to ask more informed questions. In doing so, I learned how to read the codes on the dash. Well how to see then but I have no clue what they mean. I am tied up now but am VERY grateful for your help. I will dig into it as soon as I can and get back with you to post codes.
There is no water problem, my window was stuck down and it can a down poor. It rained thru the window for 10-15 minutes. I opened the door, pulled back the accordion boot and opened the connector there(thanks to another CF post) cleaned it and snapped together and the door window and lock are working.
There is no water problem, my window was stuck down and it can a down poor. It rained thru the window for 10-15 minutes. I opened the door, pulled back the accordion boot and opened the connector there(thanks to another CF post) cleaned it and snapped together and the door window and lock are working.
#8
Advanced
Thread Starter
Oddly, the a/c was fine until we fixed the charging system and replaced the steering control lock module.
THANKS TO ALL FOR THE HELP, I AM AMAZED AT THE COOPERATION AND HOW QUICK Y'ALL JUMP IN!!!
#9
Le Mans Master
For what it's worth... your getting assistance from two of the most knowledgeable C5 guru's on the forum... I would trust them more than ANY Certified GM tech... LISTEN to them and DO what they tell you to do...you will be glad you did
#10
Team Owner
MANY "kudos" to both "8vette7" and "Bill Curlee". They've solved NUMEROUS electrical issues for all of us.
#11
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St. Jude Donor '08
Thanks guys.
Check the fuses for the HVAC SYSTEM.
There are several.. Look in your owners manual and you will find them>
Bill
Check the fuses for the HVAC SYSTEM.
There are several.. Look in your owners manual and you will find them>
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 06-25-2015 at 09:48 AM.
#12
Team Owner
In an attempt to interject a little irony, as well as a little humor into this topic, I'll add this comment, with tongue-in-cheek.....
I thought about this discussion a while after I logged off, yesterday. Here's a situation where an employee of the dealership is having Corvette issues, and even though he works for them, they're still raking this poor guy over the coals.....
WOW!
I thought about this discussion a while after I logged off, yesterday. Here's a situation where an employee of the dealership is having Corvette issues, and even though he works for them, they're still raking this poor guy over the coals.....
WOW!
#13
Drifting
In an attempt to interject a little irony, as well as a little humor into this topic, I'll add this comment, with tongue-in-cheek.....
I thought about this discussion a while after I logged off, yesterday. Here's a situation where an employee of the dealership is having Corvette issues, and even though he works for them, they're still raking this poor guy over the coals.....
WOW!
I thought about this discussion a while after I logged off, yesterday. Here's a situation where an employee of the dealership is having Corvette issues, and even though he works for them, they're still raking this poor guy over the coals.....
WOW!
Systemic bias, also called institutional bias, is the inherent tendency of a process to support particular outcomes.
Last edited by MAC5; 06-25-2015 at 08:51 AM.
#14
Racer
#15
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Thread Starter
Actually $1200 for the work that was done on the car is not too bad considering it was likely done at the dealership. I suspect he may have gotten "employee pricing".
Unfortunately the Tech that did the work was still using the GM "corporate" mentality of throwing parts at it rather than knowing how to fix issues without new parts. I refer specifically to the installation of a new column lock motor and all the associated labor of dismantling the steering wheel/colum when an LMC5 avoids the need for a lock motor completely and the replacement of the BCM when it may well have been able to be removed from the aluminum box and the likely oxidation on the board causing problems cleaned off with rubbing alcohol and an old tooth brush. Those 2 items to a regular customer probably would have been well over $2k. An LMC5 is under $50 shipped and 30 minutes to install vs big bucks to dismantle the steering wheel/column plus the lock motor cost....
As I said in my post above many of the things recommended on the Forum will go against the grain of the Tech and certainly against the "corporate" policy of swapping parts without finding the root cause first.......
Unfortunately the Tech that did the work was still using the GM "corporate" mentality of throwing parts at it rather than knowing how to fix issues without new parts. I refer specifically to the installation of a new column lock motor and all the associated labor of dismantling the steering wheel/colum when an LMC5 avoids the need for a lock motor completely and the replacement of the BCM when it may well have been able to be removed from the aluminum box and the likely oxidation on the board causing problems cleaned off with rubbing alcohol and an old tooth brush. Those 2 items to a regular customer probably would have been well over $2k. An LMC5 is under $50 shipped and 30 minutes to install vs big bucks to dismantle the steering wheel/column plus the lock motor cost....
As I said in my post above many of the things recommended on the Forum will go against the grain of the Tech and certainly against the "corporate" policy of swapping parts without finding the root cause first.......
However, after being a Mustang owner for a while, I learned the informed hang out here, at the forum. You guys however kick the crap out of the guys that helped me at MF in terms of knowledge and overall helpfulness. Thanks for that. I realize I have a big job in front of me. The good news is that I only work 60-70 hours a week so I have TONS of time to tinker with it. I will make time this week or weekend and get those codes to report. Meanwhile I am still learning about my C5. I feel like with all of your help I may get it looking and running as good as it sounds. It has a badass sounding exhaust but who knows who did it or what is under there. I am afraid to look for now......
However you have my word, I will not trust ANYONE with my c5 until I have done some research and / or consulted my new friends here you guys rock! Come to AL and I will get you a burger and a drink
#16
Team Owner
#17
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Thread Starter
I know I am inundating you with TONS of stuff here. sorry, back on task. the main problem is the hvac and electrical stuff. It is still "new" to me and I am learning what is wrong as i fix stuff. Thanks Bill you are the man! I will get those fuses out somehow!!
#18
Burning Brakes
Well you got the car cheap enough to put a few grand in it fixing it up. If the car was in better condition the owner wouldn't have let it go that cheap. Do as much reading as you can on here, most all problems have been addressed on here many times.
#19
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Thanks again sir! I am bookmarking and ordering. I will get it done ASAP. You guys are awesome, do you think that will lower the back side of the assembly so it does not rub anymore? There is a small spot about as wide as a dime that is contacting the hood. There may be an adjustment for that.
I have found multiple threads regarding my particular issues in my 15 spare minutes today and am glad to know I am not alone. You have been a big help but I am a big boy and am going to try to find answers and fix some stuff without being such a pain. I know you must get tired of people posting the same problems without researching first. The key now is that I know where to look and what to look for. Thanks again!
In regards to the star connectors in the passenger floor compartment next to the BCM, how hard are those to remove. I have time tonight to open those, inspect and clean and re close. If I am reading right, it sounds like that may solve a lot of my issues along with cleaning the clips inside the passenger door accordion. Thanks again Bill
I have found multiple threads regarding my particular issues in my 15 spare minutes today and am glad to know I am not alone. You have been a big help but I am a big boy and am going to try to find answers and fix some stuff without being such a pain. I know you must get tired of people posting the same problems without researching first. The key now is that I know where to look and what to look for. Thanks again!
In regards to the star connectors in the passenger floor compartment next to the BCM, how hard are those to remove. I have time tonight to open those, inspect and clean and re close. If I am reading right, it sounds like that may solve a lot of my issues along with cleaning the clips inside the passenger door accordion. Thanks again Bill
#20
Advanced
Thread Starter
I posted info on that in the other thread that you posted in this evening so look there so I don't have to repost it.
Also I'm not Bill. Bill Curlee is the Forum's resident electrical Wizard. I'm still in training. He posted in this thread also... I'm Chuck.
When you can help your self please do. If you do need help don't be afraid to ask. There are many here that can and will offer advise.
Also I'm not Bill. Bill Curlee is the Forum's resident electrical Wizard. I'm still in training. He posted in this thread also... I'm Chuck.
When you can help your self please do. If you do need help don't be afraid to ask. There are many here that can and will offer advise.