I am a Finance Director at Chevrolet Dealership in North Alabama. I am a Corvette enthusiast but never had an opportunity to get one without feeling guilty with 3 young children. Until now! I had a customer trade one in that I scooped up for $2000. It is a 99 coupe with 157k miles in clean condition cosmetically probably 80% + or -. However, when the previous owner took it to be "fixed" some shade tree mechanic lopped off some of the wires going to the BCM, put an incompatible alternator on it, ran a cd changer directly to the ignition, cut off the steering control lock and destroyed it. It would not exceed 1 mph when I bought it.

My mechanic was able to fix the steering lock by replacing it, he fixed the charging system / alternator and battery, he was able to get it running and shifting (manual 6 spd) perfectly. HOWEVER: I am having electrical issues intermittently, lights and warnings that seem to be irrelevant to system performance etc, it ran without a code for 2 weeks until it rained then WHAMMY!

It says "reduced engine power (not really reduced), Service Vehicle Soon, Service Traction Control System, The ABS light comes on along with the check engine light" most times I can just turn it off and back on and all is well. Today the windshield wipers went crazy and the blower motor quit the first day it ran.

Sorry to go long, I am digging into this material on the forum and my technician,Corvette certified thru GM at the dealership, is meeting me here Saturday to help. If anyone can give me as much advice or leads to threads as possible I will be forever grateful!

I finally got a vette but I am about $921 into the service bill and I realy do not want it to climb much higher.

----edit---solution--------
I started this thread thinking I had one MAJOR problem. It turns out I had 3-4 smaller problems. Mostly related to the main serial data buss. Thanks to Bill Curlee, 8VETTE7, and others, I was able to get most of the problems resolved. Here is what we found.

As for the reduced engine power, service traction control, ABS lights and the Christmas Tree warnings in the dash (31 codes total) followed steps outlined on the forum by Bill Curlee and 8VETTE7 and cleaned the star connectors beside the BCM, I cleaned and straigntened out the pins (male and female)in the plugs inside the door accordion of the passenger door, and I cleaned and straightened out the pins (female only) on the ground chassis connector g202 inside the A pillar at the bottom of the passenger door. In doing these 3 steps I also corrected the passenger door window and door lock that were inoperable at the time.

****9-12-15 Last problem solved: Blower Motor inoperable and will not come on at any speed.
I have previously stated that several members of the forum (thanks guys!) and I were totally stumped as to why we could not get power to the blower motor. After replacing the resistor and the blower motor I was convinced hope was lost. Well, I was wrong. I had a local tech (AMAZING GUY) tune my car in Huntsville AL. He was able to diagnose and fix the problem with relative ease. It turned out to be a relay (part 2-DR1069 R 3109) it cost me $13 to replace.

 

Congrats on the deal, read the stickys at the top of this section. Especially the one on electrical issues by Bill C.

 

Is or was your BCM/ passengers floor wet??

BC

 

before I got it? I don't know. I replace the BCM 3 weeks ago, but that did not affect it much. The day it started going crazy again the floorboard did get wet from rain. I had been driving it over a week with no codes. It runs and drives out good, but when the lights all come on it looks like a Christmas tree on my dashboard. And the windshield wipers go kind of crazy.

 

If you don't solve the water issue,,,, order the BCMs by the DOZEN,,, That way there most likely less money if you order them in BULK.

Next,,

READ and POST your DTCs

That going to tell us LOADS of good info. You MAY just have a serial data corruption problem that we need to sort out.

The water issue MUST be fixed FIRST!!!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes


The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html

 

When you run the AC,,, does the condensation from the HVAC Air Box run out from under the passengers area UNDER the body??

If NOT, you have a CLOGGED HVAC Condensate Drain and that can case the same water in the passengers foot well/on the BCM

BC

 

I have trolled the net for a few days to gather as much info as I can to ask more informed questions. In doing so, I learned how to read the codes on the dash. Well how to see then but I have no clue what they mean. I am tied up now but am VERY grateful for your help. I will dig into it as soon as I can and get back with you to post codes.

There is no water problem, my window was stuck down and it can a down poor. It rained thru the window for 10-15 minutes. I opened the door, pulled back the accordion boot and opened the connector there(thanks to another CF post) cleaned it and snapped together and the door window and lock are working.

 

Well, as for now, the heat /air /fan ***** do nothing. They light up and all but the blower motor/fan will not even try to push air. It is 106° here today and it is too hot for no fan or a/c. But I am looking at one fix at a time.

Oddly, the a/c was fine until we fixed the charging system and replaced the steering control lock module.

THANKS TO ALL FOR THE HELP, I AM AMAZED AT THE COOPERATION AND HOW QUICK Y'ALL JUMP IN!!!

 

For what it's worth... your getting assistance from two of the most knowledgeable C5 guru's on the forum... I would trust them more than ANY Certified GM tech... LISTEN to them and DO what they tell you to do...you will be glad you did

 

MANY "kudos" to both "8vette7" and "Bill Curlee". They've solved NUMEROUS electrical issues for all of us.

 

Thanks guys.

Check the fuses for the HVAC SYSTEM.

There are several.. Look in your owners manual and you will find them>

Bill

 

In an attempt to interject a little irony, as well as a little humor into this topic, I'll add this comment, with tongue-in-cheek.....



I thought about this discussion a while after I logged off, yesterday. Here's a situation where an employee of the dealership is having Corvette issues, and even though he works for them, they're still raking this poor guy over the coals.....

WOW!

 

It's the nature of the beast

Systemic bias, also called institutional bias, is the inherent tendency of a process to support particular outcomes.

 

Agreed, these guys are super helpful!

 

The irony is not lost on me, neither is the idea that if they come through my office they will get the same "employee pricing " on their vehicle and service contract / GAP protection. The bill actually came in at $921 but that includes parts (battery and alternator included) so he did me a solid favor in my opinion.

However, after being a Mustang owner for a while, I learned the informed hang out here, at the forum. You guys however kick the crap out of the guys that helped me at MF in terms of knowledge and overall helpfulness. Thanks for that. I realize I have a big job in front of me. The good news is that I only work 60-70 hours a week so I have TONS of time to tinker with it. I will make time this week or weekend and get those codes to report. Meanwhile I am still learning about my C5. I feel like with all of your help I may get it looking and running as good as it sounds. It has a badass sounding exhaust but who knows who did it or what is under there. I am afraid to look for now......

However you have my word, I will not trust ANYONE with my c5 until I have done some research and / or consulted my new friends here you guys rock! Come to AL and I will get you a burger and a drink

 

Take a few pictures when you can, and post them here. If it's a commercially produced/sold system, odds are we can identify it for you.

 

I found the HVAC fuses but they will not budge I am working on that and then i notice the driver headlamp will not open by itself anymore, it tries and "whirrrrrrr" while the manual spinner **** spins freely both directions. I also noticed that it is rubbing some. Crap! I think. This car will cost me some money by the time it is done. Do you recommend replacing the headlamp motor?

I know I am inundating you with TONS of stuff here. sorry, back on task. the main problem is the hvac and electrical stuff. It is still "new" to me and I am learning what is wrong as i fix stuff. Thanks Bill you are the man! I will get those fuses out somehow!!

 

Well you got the car cheap enough to put a few grand in it fixing it up. If the car was in better condition the owner wouldn't have let it go that cheap. Do as much reading as you can on here, most all problems have been addressed on here many times.

 

Thanks again sir! I am bookmarking and ordering. I will get it done ASAP. You guys are awesome, do you think that will lower the back side of the assembly so it does not rub anymore? There is a small spot about as wide as a dime that is contacting the hood. There may be an adjustment for that.

I have found multiple threads regarding my particular issues in my 15 spare minutes today and am glad to know I am not alone. You have been a big help but I am a big boy and am going to try to find answers and fix some stuff without being such a pain. I know you must get tired of people posting the same problems without researching first. The key now is that I know where to look and what to look for. Thanks again!

In regards to the star connectors in the passenger floor compartment next to the BCM, how hard are those to remove. I have time tonight to open those, inspect and clean and re close. If I am reading right, it sounds like that may solve a lot of my issues along with cleaning the clips inside the passenger door accordion. Thanks again Bill

 

That is funny! I just read that post and made some notes. I know you are not Bill, sorry, you both have helped so much and I have been back and forth with both. You are great!