Heads getting ported !!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,892
Likes: 47
From: Helotes TEXAS
Heads getting ported !!
Dropping of my LS2 #243 heads for stage 2.5 porting at TSP next week !!
When I get them back it'll be time for a BIG TIME swap.
Newly ported heads, FAST 92mm intake, LS2 90mm TB and an EG Whiplash cam.
YEAH BOY !!
When I get them back it'll be time for a BIG TIME swap.
Newly ported heads, FAST 92mm intake, LS2 90mm TB and an EG Whiplash cam.
YEAH BOY !!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
May I ask a few questions before you start the reinstall and make a couple of recommendations???
What pushrods are you going to be using?
Did you do any rocker trunion up-grades?
Are you going to use NEW LIFTERS? What Type?
Did you order and install new lifter buckets?
Recommendations:
1. Order and install ARP Head Studs. Far superior to the torque to yield OEM bolts & you lessen the chance of stripping out the threads in the engine block
2. MAKE 100% absolutely positive, without a doubt sure that there is NOT ANY liquid inside ANY of the head bolt holes in the block before you install ant head retaining bolts!!!! IF YOU DONT, YOU CHANCE RUPTURING THE BLOCK!!! I use the LONG wooden stem Q tips and probe the hole. If it comes out dry and clean, your GOOD!
3. APPLY RED LOCKTITE (high strength thread locking compound) to the three bolts that secure the cam gear to the cam! If you don't, they will most certainly come loose! Murphy said so!
4. When you install the FAST INTAKE, MAKE SURE that you swap in the low profile valley cover bolts. Lay the manifold on the heads without bolts. If it doesn't sit FLAT on the heads without bolts, its hitting something that needs to be addressed before you torque it in place!
5. The front cover gasket can be installed in either direction. HOWEVER,, there is only ONE correct way! Make SURE that you put it on in the correct direction! If you don't, you WILL have a BIG oil leak! Pre oil the LIP of the damper seal with oil.
6. While the water pump is removed, its a PRIME time to SUCK out all the old coolant from the block. I use a wet and dry vac with a tygon hose extension tapped to the hose. With ALL the OLD coolant removed, you can refill the block with pre diluted dexcool& distilled water at the correct mixture for your area.. Good time to install a new T stat at a lower operating temp. I used the 180 deg stat.
7. Extend your vacuum line at the back of the intake. My FAST 90 had a small vacuum port on the passengers side of the intake that I used for the vacuum source.
8. I also moved my MAP sensor with a map relocation kit. Makes life a LOT easier and works very well.
9. If your block is factory drilled for the timing chain dampener, I highly recommend installing one. SOme late model blocks are factory drilled. The dampers are being manufactured again by aftermarket:
Some pictures for you:
ARP HEAD STUDS INSTALLED
I have a 2002 LS6. The late model LS engines did NOT have a rear steam cross over pipe. I added one using a late model FRONT cross over pipe and connected it with a rubber hose at the front:
MAP Relocation Kit:
New CADDY Racing Lifters in New GM Lifter Buckets:
New LS2 Timing Chain vs OLD Crappy LS1 design:
LS-1/6 Timing chain damper:
Extended vacuum line at back of manifold:
Good Luck my friend and have fun with the MOD process... Who will be TUNING the PCM??
Bill
What pushrods are you going to be using?
Did you do any rocker trunion up-grades?
Are you going to use NEW LIFTERS? What Type?
Did you order and install new lifter buckets?
Recommendations:
1. Order and install ARP Head Studs. Far superior to the torque to yield OEM bolts & you lessen the chance of stripping out the threads in the engine block
2. MAKE 100% absolutely positive, without a doubt sure that there is NOT ANY liquid inside ANY of the head bolt holes in the block before you install ant head retaining bolts!!!! IF YOU DONT, YOU CHANCE RUPTURING THE BLOCK!!! I use the LONG wooden stem Q tips and probe the hole. If it comes out dry and clean, your GOOD!
3. APPLY RED LOCKTITE (high strength thread locking compound) to the three bolts that secure the cam gear to the cam! If you don't, they will most certainly come loose! Murphy said so!
4. When you install the FAST INTAKE, MAKE SURE that you swap in the low profile valley cover bolts. Lay the manifold on the heads without bolts. If it doesn't sit FLAT on the heads without bolts, its hitting something that needs to be addressed before you torque it in place!
5. The front cover gasket can be installed in either direction. HOWEVER,, there is only ONE correct way! Make SURE that you put it on in the correct direction! If you don't, you WILL have a BIG oil leak! Pre oil the LIP of the damper seal with oil.
6. While the water pump is removed, its a PRIME time to SUCK out all the old coolant from the block. I use a wet and dry vac with a tygon hose extension tapped to the hose. With ALL the OLD coolant removed, you can refill the block with pre diluted dexcool& distilled water at the correct mixture for your area.. Good time to install a new T stat at a lower operating temp. I used the 180 deg stat.
7. Extend your vacuum line at the back of the intake. My FAST 90 had a small vacuum port on the passengers side of the intake that I used for the vacuum source.
8. I also moved my MAP sensor with a map relocation kit. Makes life a LOT easier and works very well.
9. If your block is factory drilled for the timing chain dampener, I highly recommend installing one. SOme late model blocks are factory drilled. The dampers are being manufactured again by aftermarket:
Some pictures for you:
ARP HEAD STUDS INSTALLED
I have a 2002 LS6. The late model LS engines did NOT have a rear steam cross over pipe. I added one using a late model FRONT cross over pipe and connected it with a rubber hose at the front:
MAP Relocation Kit:
New CADDY Racing Lifters in New GM Lifter Buckets:
New LS2 Timing Chain vs OLD Crappy LS1 design:
LS-1/6 Timing chain damper:
Extended vacuum line at back of manifold:
Good Luck my friend and have fun with the MOD process... Who will be TUNING the PCM??
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jun 25, 2015 at 11:02 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,892
Likes: 47
From: Helotes TEXAS
May I ask a few questions before you start the reinstall and make a couple of recommendations???
What pushrods are you going to be using? Chrome moly 7.4
Did you do any rocker trunion up-grades? Purchased roller rockers
Are you going to use NEW LIFTERS? What Type? New Crower roller lifters
Did you order and install new lifter buckets? Nope, will get some
Recommendations:
1. Order and install ARP Head Studs. Far superior to the torque to yield OEM bolts & you lessen the chance of stripping out the threads in the engine block
Was going to use new ARP head bolts
2. MAKE 100% absolutely positive, without a doubt sure that there is NOT ANY liquid inside ANY of the head bolt holes in the block before you install ant head retaining bolts!!!! IF YOU DONT, YOU CHANCE RUPTURING THE BLOCK!!! I use the LONG wooden stem Q tips and probe the hole. If it comes out dry and clean, your GOOD!
Will do.
3. APPLY RED LOCKTITE (high strength thread locking compound) to the three bolts that secure the cam gear to the cam! If you don't, they will most certainly come loose! Murphy said so!
Will do.
4. When you install the FAST INTAKE, MAKE SURE that you swap in the low profile valley cover bolts. Lay the manifold on the heads without bolts. If it doesn't sit FLAT on the heads without bolts, its hitting something that needs to be addressed before you torque it in place!
Already have themo.
5. The front cover gasket can be installed in either direction. HOWEVER,, there is only ONE correct way! Make SURE that you put it on in the correct direction! If you don't, you WILL have a BIG oil leak! Pre oil the LIP of the damper seal with oil.
Will do.
6. While the water pump is removed, its a PRIME time to SUCK out all the old coolant from the block. I use a wet and dry vac with a tygon hose extension tapped to the hose. With ALL the OLD coolant removed, you can refill the block with pre diluted dexcool& distilled water at the correct mixture for your area.. Good time to install a new T stat at a lower operating temp. I used the 180 deg stat.
Plan on draining and refilling the entire system.
7. Extend your vacuum line at the back of the intake. My FAST 90 had a small vacuum port on the passengers side of the intake that I used for the vacuum source.
Will look into that.
8. I also moved my MAP sensor with a map relocation kit. Makes life a LOT easier and works very well.
Plan to relocate to the front of the intake.
9. If your block is factory drilled for the timing chain dampener, I highly recommend installing one. Some late model blocks are factory drilled. The dampers are being manufactured again by aftermarket:
Will look into that.
Good Luck my friend and have fun with the MOD process... Who will be TUNING the PCM??
Planning on taking the car to EG in Houston.
Bill
What pushrods are you going to be using? Chrome moly 7.4
Did you do any rocker trunion up-grades? Purchased roller rockers
Are you going to use NEW LIFTERS? What Type? New Crower roller lifters
Did you order and install new lifter buckets? Nope, will get some
Recommendations:
1. Order and install ARP Head Studs. Far superior to the torque to yield OEM bolts & you lessen the chance of stripping out the threads in the engine block
Was going to use new ARP head bolts
2. MAKE 100% absolutely positive, without a doubt sure that there is NOT ANY liquid inside ANY of the head bolt holes in the block before you install ant head retaining bolts!!!! IF YOU DONT, YOU CHANCE RUPTURING THE BLOCK!!! I use the LONG wooden stem Q tips and probe the hole. If it comes out dry and clean, your GOOD!
Will do.
3. APPLY RED LOCKTITE (high strength thread locking compound) to the three bolts that secure the cam gear to the cam! If you don't, they will most certainly come loose! Murphy said so!
Will do.
4. When you install the FAST INTAKE, MAKE SURE that you swap in the low profile valley cover bolts. Lay the manifold on the heads without bolts. If it doesn't sit FLAT on the heads without bolts, its hitting something that needs to be addressed before you torque it in place!
Already have themo.
5. The front cover gasket can be installed in either direction. HOWEVER,, there is only ONE correct way! Make SURE that you put it on in the correct direction! If you don't, you WILL have a BIG oil leak! Pre oil the LIP of the damper seal with oil.
Will do.
6. While the water pump is removed, its a PRIME time to SUCK out all the old coolant from the block. I use a wet and dry vac with a tygon hose extension tapped to the hose. With ALL the OLD coolant removed, you can refill the block with pre diluted dexcool& distilled water at the correct mixture for your area.. Good time to install a new T stat at a lower operating temp. I used the 180 deg stat.
Plan on draining and refilling the entire system.
7. Extend your vacuum line at the back of the intake. My FAST 90 had a small vacuum port on the passengers side of the intake that I used for the vacuum source.
Will look into that.
8. I also moved my MAP sensor with a map relocation kit. Makes life a LOT easier and works very well.
Plan to relocate to the front of the intake.
9. If your block is factory drilled for the timing chain dampener, I highly recommend installing one. Some late model blocks are factory drilled. The dampers are being manufactured again by aftermarket:
Will look into that.
Good Luck my friend and have fun with the MOD process... Who will be TUNING the PCM??
Planning on taking the car to EG in Houston.
Bill
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I home ported my FAST 90 and the 90mm TB, matched the intake to the intake port openings, have stainless works 1 3/4" primary headers with a complete 3" exhaust system.
With an EG Tune, I was able to get 450RWHP...
I still strongly recommend head studs...
Tell EG and Jason, Bill said HEY!
When your all said and done, please post results! Tell EG you want a Video...
With an EG Tune, I was able to get 450RWHP...
I still strongly recommend head studs...
Tell EG and Jason, Bill said HEY!
When your all said and done, please post results! Tell EG you want a Video...
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,892
Likes: 47
From: Helotes TEXAS
I home ported my FAST 90 and the 90mm TB, matched the intake to the intake port openings, have stainless works 1 3/4" primary headers with a complete 3" exhaust system.
With an EG Tune, I was able to get 450RWHP...
I still strongly recommend head studs...
Tell EG and Jason, Bill said HEY!
When your all said and done, please post results! Tell EG you want a Video...
With an EG Tune, I was able to get 450RWHP...
I still strongly recommend head studs...
Tell EG and Jason, Bill said HEY!
When your all said and done, please post results! Tell EG you want a Video...
And what's wrong with ARP bead bolts ??
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
I agree with Bill about studs vs. bolts. Studs are finger-threaded in one time and one time only. Eliminates the possibility of screwing up the block threads. Also, if/when you ever need to pull the heads again, you won't need to go through the tedious bolt-hole cleaning process since the studs don't allow coolant to pool in the block holes. I just pulled my heads for the 4th or 5th time and am thankful I installed studs after the first time I pulled them.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,892
Likes: 47
From: Helotes TEXAS
I agree with Bill about studs vs. bolts. Studs are finger-threaded in one time and one time only. Eliminates the possibility of screwing up the block threads. Also, if/when you ever need to pull the heads again, you won't need to go through the tedious bolt-hole cleaning process since the studs don't allow coolant to pool in the block holes. I just pulled my heads for the 4th or 5th time and am thankful I installed studs after the first time I pulled them.
No torque wrenching required ??
Pro
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 666
Likes: 11
From: Lafayette Louisiana
Heads getting ported !!
You'll do a 3 sequence pass, but essentially the stud itself it simply ran down with your fingers till it bottoms out. If you chased the block threads and got them clean enough, they'll go in EASILY.
ARP anything that will see a torque value, I ALWAYS use ARP lube.
ARP anything that will see a torque value, I ALWAYS use ARP lube.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,049
Likes: 316
From: USA
Finger tight into the block side... then normal torqueing down the nuts to hold the heads on. Like he pointed out, the main benefit of studs is that if you pull the heads again... you won't have to clean/dry out the head stud holes/threads again. Totally your call if the extra $$ is worth it to you at that point.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 925
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas, NV
I home ported my FAST 90 and the 90mm TB, matched the intake to the intake port openings, have stainless works 1 3/4" primary headers with a complete 3" exhaust system.
With an EG Tune, I was able to get 450RWHP...
I still strongly recommend head studs...
Tell EG and Jason, Bill said HEY!
When your all said and done, please post results! Tell EG you want a Video...
With an EG Tune, I was able to get 450RWHP...
I still strongly recommend head studs...
Tell EG and Jason, Bill said HEY!
When your all said and done, please post results! Tell EG you want a Video...
Very helpful.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The studs have a hex key hole at the top of the stud. I just installed mine using the hex key until it bottomed out in the hole.. Theres NO need to crank them in.
Once you install a set of heads using studs, you will NOT want to use anything else.
BC
Once you install a set of heads using studs, you will NOT want to use anything else.
BC
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I have three friends that did a heads cam install. Each one used the GM OEM head bolts. Each one stripped out the threads in the block on one hole. There are MANY MANY more people on the forum who have stripped out the head bolt holes in the block..
The repair is time consuming and the TINECERT Kit is expensive.
When you use OEM Torque To Yield bolts, you are MOVING the bolt at the same time as you are stressing the threads in the vertical direction.
This causes a LOT of stress on the threads in the block. Sometimes they give way. The feeling is HORRIBLE!
With head studs, you eliminate that twisting stress on the block threads.
If you came to me and said,, Bill,, help me install a set of heads. I would tell you to ORDER Head Studs and I will..
Once you see how NICE it is to use the studs, you will NEVER want to use OEM TTY bolts again..
BC
The repair is time consuming and the TINECERT Kit is expensive.
When you use OEM Torque To Yield bolts, you are MOVING the bolt at the same time as you are stressing the threads in the vertical direction.
This causes a LOT of stress on the threads in the block. Sometimes they give way. The feeling is HORRIBLE!
With head studs, you eliminate that twisting stress on the block threads.
If you came to me and said,, Bill,, help me install a set of heads. I would tell you to ORDER Head Studs and I will..
Once you see how NICE it is to use the studs, you will NEVER want to use OEM TTY bolts again..
BC
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,892
Likes: 47
From: Helotes TEXAS
So does the "BRAND" of stud kit matter ??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-Cylinder-Head-Stud-Kit-4-8L-5-7L-6-0l-l92-ls2-Studs-97-03-1997-2003-1998-/191564862260?hash=item2c9a27d334&vxp=mtr
VS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-LS6-LS2-LS-CHEVY-CYLINDER-HEAD-12-POINT-STUD-KIT-PERFORMANCE-STUDS-/321732992713?hash=item4ae8c7dec9&vxp=mtr
VS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-234-4110-CYLINDER-HEAD-STUD-KIT-GM-LS1-LS6-4-8L-5-3L-5-7L-6-0L-2003-EARLIER-/161730144216?hash=item25a7de27d8&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-Cylinder-Head-Stud-Kit-4-8L-5-7L-6-0l-l92-ls2-Studs-97-03-1997-2003-1998-/191564862260?hash=item2c9a27d334&vxp=mtr
VS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-LS6-LS2-LS-CHEVY-CYLINDER-HEAD-12-POINT-STUD-KIT-PERFORMANCE-STUDS-/321732992713?hash=item4ae8c7dec9&vxp=mtr
VS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-234-4110-CYLINDER-HEAD-STUD-KIT-GM-LS1-LS6-4-8L-5-3L-5-7L-6-0L-2003-EARLIER-/161730144216?hash=item25a7de27d8&vxp=mtr
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I trust ARP but,, its a stud... There was a CHANGE in head bolt design and LENGTH some time after 2002. I am NOT sure of the year. The length of the bolts/studs is significantly different on the four outer most forward and rear block head bolts and after the change and the OLD style bolts will not work.
SO make sure that you order the correct year studs/bolts for your car/engine.
SO make sure that you order the correct year studs/bolts for your car/engine.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,892
Likes: 47
From: Helotes TEXAS
I trust ARP but,, its a stud... There was a CHANGE in head bolt design and LENGTH some time after 2002. I am NOT sure of the year. The length of the bolts/studs is significantly different on the four outer most forward and rear block head bolts and after the change and the OLD style bolts will not work.
SO make sure that you order the correct year studs/bolts for your car/engine.
SO make sure that you order the correct year studs/bolts for your car/engine.
My current LS1 in my 2000 FRC just that, 2000 year model LS1. All the stud kits I listed above are for early LS1 engines 97-03.
They should fit.