Ok so I have been researching as much as I can on my phone. I am almost certain the BCM or some part of it is bad. It will not wake up from rest without pulling fuse 25. Sometimes it works fine for a couple of days sometime I get nothing but the standard error messages, no radio, trunk release not working..etc...etc. So I was able to get my hands on a 98 vert BCM with lock and key....I have a 99 FRC. Can the 98 vert bcm be repinned for the frc? I hoping to be able to re-pin it...relearn it...then take it in to have the RPO codes programmed. I will keep digging..checking every ground, connection and module until I replace the BCM. I would not hurt my feelings to have an extra laying around.

 

You probably will not need to use the new key with the different BCM if doing a relearn.

I agree it sure sounds like a BCM issue.

I can provide you with the 98 and 99 BCM connector views a little later. Headed into work shortly.

If you have AH and the 98 one does not that may affect that feature. AH was an option starting in mid 98.

You may also get lucky and the two RPOs match.

Mr. Sam

 

Sorry, the BCM has nothing to do with the EBCM functions. I somehow got PCM on the brain so forget the comment on AH. I have pulled the connector views and will post in the morning at the latest. Not home now.

 

Thank you much...sux to have problems like these but at the same time I'm learning a lot.

 

Here is 98:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gnpz75w0l1...Views.pdf?dl=0

Here is 99:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jg8zhlm8ph...Views.pdf?dl=0


Let me know if you need any more help.

 

Thanks again....Looks like the l nd are dang near identical minus the convertible controls on the 99 bcm. The head light actuator pins are different colors and names but serves the same function. Hopefully I can get it to work.

 

If you need me to post any particular interfacing circuits like the HL interface I would be glad to do it for each year.

 

So far so good...it iunstalled the new one and swapped inginition tumblers and it started right up. Now i get a pull 10 sec warning and service collum lock message. No security light is on...that goes out right away. the car also dies when I try to move it...it acts as if I had the wrong Vats value on the key. I swapped the original tubler back in and this time the security light stayed on. Will have to do some more digging....oh and the craptastic part is the collum is locked!At least it runs again.....Any ideas?

 

Just found this in the forums
"The BCM sends password information to the PCM on the serial data line to enable fuel for Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) functions, therefore, the PCM must also be programmed to accept the new password sent by the BCM. The BCM programming procedure will enable the learn password mode for both the BCM and PCM. This mode allows the PCM to learn the new password sent by the BCM whenever the BCM or PCM is replaced. If the BCM and PCM are not properly programmed together, the vehicle will exhibit a no start condition and the PCM will store a DTC P1631.
When an ignition key or the BCM is replaced, the BCM must be programmed to accept the resistance value of the new or existing vehicle keys in order to allow PASS-Key® operation. Refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System Components in Theft Deterrents."

I tell ya this site is full of all kinds of good info!

 

In post 1 you said you knew you had to do a relearn? Do you not have that info?

With regard to CL you just need to read this. In the interim, 99% of CL issues are caused by a low battery.


I consider the LMC5 to be the best Column Lock problem permanent fix out there. It also does not require you to “undo” any previous CL attempts to resolve this issue. Their eBay ads have a good video that shows the install at the BCM. It does not cover everything in the written instructions. So, read the instructions and also here is some extra info. In some cases, the BCM timing is off just enough to cause some issues. They make several versions and they can swap out/provide one of these if you have any issues. Their customer support is as good as it gets.

Not uncommon for people to "put the column in a pre-lock condition" and not know it and then start with the install. In other words, they started with the column lock “energized’ even if it was not actually locked yet. If not actually locked yet, it will be as soon as you turn the steering wheel after the LMC5 install. It will then remain in the locked condition until you cause the motor to unlock. It will then remain in the unlocked condition since the motor is then unpowered with the circuits disconnected.

Here is one way to prevent that if your column locks and unlocks normally:

If the CL is functioning normally you don't not need the Unlocker, merely turn the ignition ON, pull fuse #23 in the I/P fuse box, turn ignition OFF, turn the steering wheel (left and right) and verify it is unlocked. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal, re-insert fuse #23 and continue with the install.

Also the 1999 and later C5's have a column lock relay that can be unplugged or else it will be powered and could fail and drain the battery. The LMC5 written guidance provides this info. This relay is above the BCM.

They also have a great install video in their eBay ads you need to watch.

Compliance Parts website: http://complianceparts.com/index.html

 

Good info indeed. After digging through the pin and wiring drawing you gave me it finally slapped me in the face that the circuits in the 98 and 99 are different. To enable the CL again I needed to remove pin D14 and remove the CL relay and jump across it.....the CL works as it should normally. I ordered the LMC5 to get rid of all that.
Was a good learning exercise. I was surprised I did not have to do a re-learn....the car just fired right up and all functions worked. I am going to take it to a dealer to have the proper RPO codes installed.
I do appreciate your help on this! And surprisingly I haven't had this kinda fun in a while with the car. Yes it was broke but tinkering to me is fun.

 

Do you have any RPOs that are not working??????? Don't go to the dealer for nothing.

 

well if your HOT and need a drink of cold water or something... but, NOT to have them WORK on your car...