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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 06:28 PM
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Default Drivers side seat issue

Hi everyone,
I have been fortunate that everything works great with my '01 except for 2 things. I think they are related and have been trying to find a manual to verify this. The tele column does not work and the DRIVER side seat is inop. I verified the voltages are present 12 volts and 5 volts. I was wondering if anyone had a slick way to verify if the seat switch or the seat module or both is bad.
y 01

Last edited by Yellow '01; Jul 30, 2015 at 10:37 PM.
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Yellow '01
Hi everyone,
I have been fortunate that everything works great with my '01 except for 2 things. I think they are related and have been trying to find a manual to verify this. The tele column does not work and the DRIVER side seat is inop. I verified the voltages are present 12 volts and 5 volts. I was wondering if anyone had a slick way to verify if the switch or the module or both is bad.
y 01
Did you pull the codes? There are all kinds of codes. Don't know if there are codes for these items, but maybe.
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 11:01 PM
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Default Codes

Originally Posted by Sam Handwich
Did you pull the codes? There are all kinds of codes. Don't know if there are codes for these items, but maybe.
Sam,
I will check with a Tech II tomorrow. Strange that the passenger seat works great. From what I've read, the memory is functional between the column and the D seat. I did check operation of the 3 driver seat motors and they worked great. I also checked for excessive resistance at the ground wires. I'm going to ops check the column motor to see if it works as well tomorrow. One thing I have noticed is the plug in connector pins (seat to floor) on the passenger seat match up - large orange to large orange wire ect. But the pins on the driver side power connector to seat make no connection sense at all. Typically the large gauge wires connect to the large gauge wires on the female side, but that's not the case here. Maybe some one changed them at one time for some reason. I did clean and detail all the pins in the blue column and main power connectors. I am going to continue to look for the schematic that shows the various wire connections at these connectors to verify gauge size and color connection.
Thanks for the tip
Y '01
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 07:42 AM
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You don't need a Tech 2 to pull your codes. I can also provide all the schematics and connector views. I will pull them up and post them. I will do the TSW ones later if needed. Sounds like the SCM may be the issue.

Does the Lumbar pump motor run?



READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.


Mr. Sam
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 07:45 AM
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Forgot I already had them on my Dropbox site. If you don't see what you need let me know. If you have any issues reading them we can discuss on the phone.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/czy7jr0xj...GFJuApzXa?dl=0

Mr. Sam
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 10:32 AM
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Mr. Sam,
Wow, your good! I will run these procedures today or this weekend and post the results.
One additional update - I tested the column motor from the blue connector and it works perfect - no binding. I also tested the column switch for continuity and it checked good - both ways. The pump does not run.
Thanks for your expertise!
Y '01

Last edited by Yellow '01; Jul 31, 2015 at 10:40 AM.
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 10:40 AM
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Glad to help, especially some one who can do electrical diagnostics apparently as well as you can. It makes things sooooo much easier.

I can provide you with anything else you might need. Also, I am always available to discuss an issue on the phone which is much more effective. PM me with your number at anytime if need be.

Mr. Sam
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Old Aug 1, 2015 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
Glad to help, especially some one who can do electrical diagnostics apparently as well as you can. It makes things sooooo much easier.

I can provide you with anything else you might need. Also, I am always available to discuss an issue on the phone which is much more effective. PM me with your number at anytime if need be.

Mr. Sam
Mr Sam,
Here are the codes you requested.
PCM NC

TCS NC

BCM B 0502 H C
B 0507 H C
B 2482 H C

SDM B 0017 H C
B 0026 H C
B 0051 H C

HVAC B 0338 H C I have some servicing to do here...
B 0446 H

LDCM NC

Radio NC I am looking for a good CD player here and will need info how to allow it to interface with the PATs

IPC NC

RDCM B 2263 H
B 2265 H

RFA NC

SCM Before clearing B 0856 H
B 2860 H
B 1255 H
After clearing and trying to operate seat NC

I have not found a reasonably priced manual yet - may have to take it on the chin there - in the mean time, do you have a schematic for the plugs under the seat and to the seat switch. I want to verify that someone has not tampered with them before I change the SCM. Everything major works but there is no brain activity in this system to control them.
Thanks for your great help
Y '01
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 07:10 AM
  #9  
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Reset/delete all the codes and then pull them up after a drive and let's see what is still there. Pull them BEFORE you turn the ignition OFF. Otherwise most will just show H. If you have any messages (like Door Ajar) on the DIC you will need to reset them to get the codes.

There is no B 1255 DTC code.

B 2860 is for the TSW position sensor and it may be an SCM issue.

If you noticed I already sent you all the Seat connector views.
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
Reset/delete all the codes and then pull them up after a drive and let's see what is still there. Pull them BEFORE you turn the ignition OFF. Otherwise most will just show H. If you have any messages (like Door Ajar) on the DIC you will need to reset them to get the codes.

There is no B 1255 DTC code.

B 2860 is for the TSW position sensor and it may be an SCM issue.

If you noticed I already sent you all the Seat connector views.
dadaroo,
I will not be able to take it for a drive as it is in the paint booth this week as I am painting the sill panels. Cleaned up all the little hikies and rock chips. I did not think the engine monitors had to run on the pcm (engine related) monitors since the SCM is a different module. I will take it for a drive as soon as she rolls out of the booth.
If the telescoping sensor is bad, can it screw with the module and make the seat inop? If there is a test for the sensor and find its location I will test it. On the pics of the connectors, how do I see the items you sent me? Still getting use to the site and did not see them on the thread.
Thanks for the advise on this - maybe between you and Sam I can get her fixed.
Y '01
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Old Aug 3, 2015 | 06:21 AM
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The connector views were the 5th PDF in the link I sent. Were you able to view any of them?
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 10:43 AM
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OMG, I have the same exact issues that I've been trying to sort out. I've been searching all of the threads trying to figure out how to isolate this to the SCM or Switch or both, but hate to gamble.

I too noticed that there were two harnesses coming out of the floor, but only the one with the black connector was used. The other with a white connector was not used, but I can't figure out where that goes? And, I noticed some of the other seat connectors had mismatched wire colors on the mating connectors, so I'm starting to wonder of the previous owner has it all goofed up. all the seat switch functions are mixed up, and the telescoping does not work. The memory mirrors and radio work find, but I can just hear the seat relay energize, but doesn't move. The passenger seat however works perfectly. Sounds like the same exact problem.

Can you please email me the same things you sent the OP?
mrmagloo at gmail. Thank YOU!!!
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 12:06 PM
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Post 5 has a link to all the info I sent. It is not uncommon to have wire colors change at a connector. Most do not however.

If you don't have a 2001 then I need to get your year info. Probably the same but I would need to verify.

Not at home to see if I left off any connectors.

With regard to the White and Black connectors I need to know if they are male or female and how many cavities are in each. Never looked under my seat so I am just going off the FSM info.

We may need to have you work off line with me so this Thread does not get too hard to follow the OP's diagnostics. Need you provide the info I requested here since it may help me for both of you.

Testing the switch is the easy part.

Mr. Sam
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 12:58 PM
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Hi Sam, I did try to click on that dropbox link, but it says this page cannot be displayed? As if the URL doesn't exist?

I'm sorry, but I have a 2000 convertible pretty much loaded from what I can tell with memory seats, telescoping, etc.

My email is above. I really appreciate the help. Got it all tore apart now and I'm pulling my hair out here!

Thank you sir!
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mrmagloo
Hi Sam, I did try to click on that dropbox link, but it says this page cannot be displayed? As if the URL doesn't exist?

I'm sorry, but I have a 2000 convertible pretty much loaded from what I can tell with memory seats, telescoping, etc.

My email is above. I really appreciate the help. Got it all tore apart now and I'm pulling my hair out here!

Thank you sir!
Something is wrong on your end with accessing the site. I have posted dozens and dozens of similar links and you are the only one to have a problems.

Still waiting on the connector info and then I will send everything in an email.
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 08:01 AM
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I forgot to include these 2 connectors for 2001. They are in line connectors C301 (Black) for the seat and C 303 (Blue) for the TSW. These provide the disconnects to remove the seat.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kiemj2rj5p...Views.pdf?dl=0
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
I forgot to include these 2 connectors for 2001. They are in line connectors C301 (Black) for the seat and C 303 (Blue) for the TSW. These provide the disconnects to remove the seat.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kiemj2rj5p...Views.pdf?dl=0
Hi Sam, thanks for the help. I think something is way out of wack. I have no connector in the seat harness that will connect up to the blue connector coming from the floor. All can guess is at some point, there was an issue with the seat operation, and they replaced the bottom assembly with a non sport/ non memory version. So they slapped it together and just gave up and lived with it. So I have to first final a sport / memory harness and then see if the SCM is programmable. Sure hope the harness is still available?
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 11:39 AM
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PM me with your email and phone number so we can talk.

I know where you can get anything you need if that is required.
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
PM me with your email and phone number so we can talk.

I know where you can get anything you need if that is required.
Mr Sam,
Got the painting done WOW what a difference! I had to do some work on the front in the engine bay so I will be a little long in getting the drive in for the codes to reset. In the mean time....
I included 2 pics. On the first, I tried to verify continuity for the seat switch positions. Very little worked. After taking it apart I could see why.... note the blue lines and the condition of the electronics.The seat switch seems to be fried. Where the little chips are the plastic got hot. I am hoping it is not from a incorrectly assembled connector under the seat - which leads me to the next pic and my original concern. I drew out and labeled the wire colors and gauge sizes. As you can see, some of them are black to orange, black to brown and some blank to a ground on the other plug. What I need to do is verify that these seat to floor plugs are correctly assembled. The blue is the column - the black is the seat power in. They are marked in the drawing. I would hate to put in a new switch and fry it too if these are incorrectly pinned into place. WOW, just found the link, great job!!! Is there a legend that tells what each are to? for example C201 etc Item C303 is the column so I'm good there, but the seat power to the SCM is the one that is not obvious - I think its either C302 or C 201 - can you verify this for me?
Thanks
Y '01
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Last edited by Yellow '01; Aug 9, 2015 at 02:39 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2015 | 07:08 AM
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I will take a look at what you sent.

I gave you every schematic and connector view you need already. Look again at Post 5 and 16. Can you not open up the links? Give it a little time to download.
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