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DIC options missing for key fob programming

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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 10:54 PM
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Default DIC options missing for key fob programming

My key fob recently stopped communicating with my 2004 coupe. I first changed the battery thinking that might be the issue, but it was not. I then followed the instructions in my owners manual, but ran into an odd issue. I was able to get to the "FOB TRAINING" option on the DIC. At this point, I should press reset again and receive the "HOLD LK + UNLK 1ST FOB" on the display, but this message never comes up and "FOB TRAINING" remains displayed. I get an audible beep, but that is it. I went ahead and held down the LK and UNLK just to see if it would work, but nothing. Has anyone ever ran into this issue? Any idea what might be causing it?

Just so you know, I had the dash cover and all the console pieces required to get it off removed before this started happening so I could repair the HUD. Not sure if there is a connection to the radio that may cause this, but I was careful to make sure everything was reconnected.

Thanks in advance,
Rob
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Pull the codes for the car. I have seen situations where the RFA shows NO COMMS and when that happens then the FOB cannot be programmed. If you have never pulled codes before here is how:


OR



http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php

You are specifically interested in the codes for B0 - RFA but post ALL your codes including the H or C or HC that follow each 5 character code.
Thanks for the quick reply.

Looks like I have a list of historical along with the real interest. I bought the car last week and am just starting to tear into it.

Here is what I found.

10 - PCM (Powertrain Control Module) P0622H, U0107H

28 - TCS (Traction Control System) C1296H

58 - SDM (Sensing and Diagnostic Module) B0090H, U1016H, U1096H,

99 - HVAC (Heater Vent-Air Conditioning) B0367H

A0 - LDCM (Left Door Control Module) B2282H, B2286H, B2284H, B2264H, U1255H, U1064H, U1016H, U1096H

A1 - RDCM (Right Door Control Module) B2283H, B2287H, B2285H, U1255H, U1064H, U1016H, U1096H

A6 - SCM (Seat Control Module) B2857H, B0851H, B0856H, B2606H, B2860HC,

B0 - RFA (Remote Function Actuation) NO COMM.
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Well with all those codes it is a crap shoot as to what is really significant since they have probably not been cleared any time recently.

I suggest that you clear ALL of the codes (see video for how to do that) and then take the car fr a nice ride ( 10 or 15 miles is enough) and when you return pull the codes again BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you MUST first use the reset button to clear ALL messages displayed in the DIC. Then pull codes as normal. I fully expect the RFA NO COMMS to return. But I doubt most of the rest will return. The codes that do return are the ones that need attention.

The most likely cause of the NO COMMS is the U1255 code. Rather than have you try a bunch of things right now, do what I suggested with clearing codes, driving the car and then pulling codes again. Post back in this thread ALL the codes that return. I or someone else familiar with codes will help you out with your issue......


Please check the carpet in the passenger footwell to see if it is wet...........

Have you recently disconnected the battery or had problems with the battery???
That cleared almost all of them. Here are the remaining codes.

99 - HVAC (Heater Vent-Air Conditioning) B0367H

A6 - SCM (Seat Control Module) B2860HC

B0 - RFA (Remote Function Actuation) NO COMM.

Passenger footwell is dry.
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
For the HVAC code Try the steps in the following link:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-for-free.html


If that doesn't do it the fun starts as the plastic gear inside the actuator is known to crack and cause the same symptom. Try the fuse thing first.

THe B2860 is related to the telescopic column. Suggest that you run the column full in and full out a few times. Do this with the engine running to avoid excess drain on the battery.

Now the tough one, NO COMMS for the RFA. I would start by checking grounds. G104 is for the RFA. Here are a couple links about grounds that you might want to save for the future:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...locations.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-long.html Post #1


The RFA itself seldom fails but the ground and serial data buss connection are often issues. I'll wait until you try the ground as checking the serial data buss connection is more involved.

After each repair(s) you do you need to clear the code and then test out the repair and pull codes again to see if the code returns...
Thanks again for the tips and direction. I have a busy week, so I will check these ASAP and let you know what I find.
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Old Aug 10, 2015 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
For the HVAC code Try the steps in the following link:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-for-free.html


If that doesn't do it the fun starts as the plastic gear inside the actuator is known to crack and cause the same symptom. Try the fuse thing first.

THe B2860 is related to the telescopic column. Suggest that you run the column full in and full out a few times. Do this with the engine running to avoid excess drain on the battery.

Now the tough one, NO COMMS for the RFA. I would start by checking grounds. G104 is for the RFA. Here are a couple links about grounds that you might want to save for the future:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...locations.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-long.html Post #1


The RFA itself seldom fails but the ground and serial data buss connection are often issues. I'll wait until you try the ground as checking the serial data buss connection is more involved.

After each repair(s) you do you need to clear the code and then test out the repair and pull codes again to see if the code returns...
Well, looks like I am going to have to dig further. I was able to clear the HVAC code, but still have the issue with the RFA and the SCM code. I am going to move onto the serial bus and start checking connections for the RFA module. I realize that I forgot to mention that the TPMS is also not communicating, so I am sure it is something between the battery and the RFA…. that should pretty much narrow it down . I will check to make sure there is power before and after the fuse, then work my way up the to the serial bus connection. I am going to make the SCM code my secondary priority. I can ignore that code for now, but I am too damn lazy to keep locking and unlocking doors like I did back before we had all this modern technology….

I will let you know what I find or if I need some more guidance.
Feel free to throw out any other suggestions you might have.
As always, your help has been greatly appreciated!
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 09:51 PM
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Strange stuff. So, I was going to do some digging tonight and while I was at it, I pulled the drivers side seat for some unrelated tidying up I wanted to do. After disconnecting the two SCM connectors, the key fob started working again. I checked the DIC and noticed that the TPMS messages were gone as well. I could access the menus required to reset / program the FOB and TPMS again. This is probably a happy coincidence. If my research is correct, the wiring to the RFA runs along the driver side and possibly there is where the issue lies. I guess if it starts happening again, chances are it will, I will dig deeper.

Once again, I really appreciate the help you have given.
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Probably NOT coincidence. The Seat Control Module and the Serial Data Buss wire (brown & White) are often involved in strange C5 electrical problems. However there are usually more codes to point in that direction. When you reinstall the seat make certain that no wires get pinched between the floor and the seat frame. The factory had a specific way they attached the wire harness to the seat to prevent damage from pinching and from extremes of travel of the seat. You may not have taken careful note of this or perhaps a previous owner had the seat out before and did not take the care to attach it the same way the factory had. Wish I had taken pictures the last time I had my drivers seat out. They may have been of some help to you.
You bring up a good point about wire routing to avoid seat travel stress. I noticed the passenger seat has tabs that attached the wiring to the seat frame to keep it from just dragging around the floor underneath the channel. Before taking the drivers seat out I noted the wires just hanging in the floor completely exposed and in plain site between the door and seat, obviously not factory. I am 100% sure the seat has been out previously and wiring not rerouted correctly when reinstalled. I will see if I can identify the correct replacement points for the harness when I reinstall to try and avoid future issues.
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 11:20 PM
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Got it all hooked up and back together as it should be. I checked the wires for any visible breaks, kinks, or other damages and did not find anything. I went ahead and cleaned up the connections before reassembling. Everything has been working fine since. I am going to mark it off my list and move onto bigger and better things. Hopefully it can stay off the list

Thanks again for sharing the wisdom. Guys like you make these forums worth it.
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