ArmyVette24

I did a search and didn't really come up with anything but here's my problems...
I just installed HID lights hi, low and fog lamps. Since installing when the headlights are turned off the lights go out but the headlights don't close unless I remove and insert the headlight motor fuse. The dash even dings like the headlights are left on when I open a door...Any ideas???
Also, I went through a high pressure car wash yesterday before detailing and the windshield wipers came on without being turned on and won't quit. I figure moisture got to something but are there any ideas on this problem as well??? Thanks in advance.

dadaroo

The HL motors are actuated by how much voltage change is monitored. This issue is common with HIDs since you probably don't have enough resistance in the circuit to match the OEM design.

Try putting the lights on high beam and then try and turn them OFF and see if that helps to close the doors.

Sounds like your cowl udders are clogged and you flooded the motor and circuit board.

Here is some info on udders. If you want to pull the wiper motor for a DIY I can provide that also.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ak-checks.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...lure-pics.html


Mr. Sam

ArmyVette24

They won't close on high beam either. I know it's exactly what you're talking about since you provided the motor process...I have capacitors/warning canceller on each ballast. Would putting them on relays maybe help the situation or removing the capacitors/warning cancellor??
I would love your DIY....Thanks very much. I did notice the cowl udders and they are stopped up but the DIY would still be appreciated. Thanks for the links. Excellent information!!

ArmyVette24

My cowl udders were so filled with dirt and debris that I spent all day removing them (3 on left, one long on right) and thoroughly cleaning them out. I would recommend anyone that hasn't checked theirs to do it as soon as possible. My battery and washer fluid tank are still out. I also took the time while I have the cowl off to re-tape the rubber windshield strip and ran a smooth line of black sealant to make the bond better as my rubber strip was starting to come off the cowl where it curves the most...Corvette love = spending all day to unclog cowl drains. lol
I'm learning so much about my Corvette here it just astounds me. You guys have an answer for everything I've encountered so far and I really appreciate it. Hopefully you saved my wiper motor with that single post....I could not locate the HVAC drain that goes through the firewall?? I also didn't have time to work on my HID lights causing the headlights to stay open. I'm hoping I can just remove the the capacitors with stored energy and run off relays to fix the closing problem. Thanks again. I had absolutely no drainage whatsoever but I took care of the udders and that won't be happening again....

dadaroo

For the HVAC udder you are most likely going to have to get under the car and use a long wire (coathanger, etc.) to reach it. It may be fine but would be good to check it.

See if this helps for the wipers. If you need me to post the actual FSM info I can but with pictures this should do it.

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=121213

I have no idea about the capacitor/whatever you installed. However, removing stuff does not increase circuit resistance.

Mr. Sam

jcblade

I had the same problem when I installed the Hi and Lo beam HID lights from Corvette Mods. They would only close when the high beams were on. After contacting Corvette Mods (they actually responded to me on weekends), I rechecked the connection of the resistor they provided. The wire was not connected properly. Fixed it and they work fine now. The resistor is connected between the stock low beam connector wires, not the ballast.

ArmyVette24

Thanks to you all. I jacked the car and removed the A/C drain. It was clogged but not as bad as the four udder tubes. I nipped off the small end of the A/C tube to ensure good drainage. All is cleaned out and draining perfectly thanks to the info and links.
I removed the capacitors from my HID's and now they are hit or miss from performing normally. I can at least hit the high beams and they close every time. If that's all I have to do I can live with that. Now my right side motor isn't getting the signal to stop closing when I flash to high beam. It is making a real loud clicking noise after it seats like either the motor worm gear or plastic gear in the motor gearbox is skipping through the teeth. What tells the headlight motor to stop once closed all the way? I figure the plastic gear in the motor gearbox is about worn out. I know I need to replace the plastic gears with brass ones but does motor resistance tell the motors to stop or is it something else? I know it's a problem that will end in some kind of failure if I don't fix the problem. Input is very much appreciated.
Do you know what voltage resistance is for the resistors you installed on the low beam wires between the ballast and the bulbs? I use Kensun HID kits and of course having the capacitors/anti flicker/warning canceller in line held voltage keeping energy stored. Once I removed them, the high beam method works but Kensun has an additional box between the ballasts and the bulbs. It has a voltage lightning bolt on it so I bet it also stores energy so the bulbs won't have a warm up period I'm guessing. I'm just wondering what the proper resistance is to close on the low beam and what tells the headlight motors to stop once they are fully closed?? All information has been really, really useful..

jcblade

Sorry, I don't know the voltage resistance on the resistor. The resistor is not located between the ballast and the bulbs. It is between the two wires on the stock low beam harness. I also had the same problem with the motor running. I think it was caused by my lowering and raising the lights, what felt like a hundred times, and maybe overturning it. It was the gear, so I replaced it with the bronze one and all is good.

jcblade

I forgot to mention, that it takes approximately 5 seconds for my high beams to come on while I am driving, but if the car is not running and I turn the high beams on, they light up immediately. This is somewhat annoying at night. Not sure why, but maybe it could be there is more voltage when the car is not running. I also have the larger 55w ballasts.

lionelhutz

You don't need much load. Add about 3W-4W of load and the lights should close. No way do you need a 55W resistor load. You could try a 50ohm, 5W or 10W resistor. Make sure it hangs clear of anything that could be damaged by heat.

The motors stop turning when they hit the mechanical stops. It's rumored the controller sees the higher current and shuts them off. I have no idea if that is true or they just drive against the stop until the controller times out.