I have a 97 with h/c/I and some more running 427 rwhp on the stock clutch so its time to replace it. I don't really track the car. Id like a clutch with little to no chatter. This is my first experience swapping a clutch so I'm not very familiar with reasonable options.

As of now I am leaning toward the ls7 clutch. It fairly cheap $500 and reliable.

I'd appreciate any input or feedback on experiences.

It will be professionally installed. I'm not ready to tackle this job just yet.

Thanks

 

Im running one at the same power, feels like the stock one and has held up well

 

I've had my Centerforce DYAD that I purchased from LG motorsports for over a year now. The quick engagement takes some getting used to, but it's quiet (unlike some twin-discs) and it will hold more power than I'll ever have...

 

May be a bit overkill for what you have, but the Mcleod RST twin disk is a great clutch, that drives very close to stock like. I think the LS7 clutch would work perfectly for your setup.

 

Stick with the STOCK LS-7 clutch. Make SURE that you have the following replaced/checked!!!!!!

New: Throwout bearing, new slave, new OEM pilot bearing, New GM Pressure plate/Clutch.

Add: A Remote Bleeder Line!

Inspect the Torque Tube: Replace any worn parts. Especially the OEM Couplers if they are aged/cracked with new OEM GM couplers.

Replace the differential Output shaft seals while the differential is out.

NOTE!!!!!!

The OEM Position with relation to the crank flange and Off Set balance of the old flywheel is critical to maintain the factory external engine balance.
If you have balance pins in the outside holes of the old flywheel, the new flywheel should be off set balanced to keep from having excessive drive train vibrations!
If your shop doesn't understand this process, fins one that does!!!

Some Drivetrain UP-GRADE post to read:

- C5 Clutch Vibration Issues: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1585950971




Some lite reading for you:


- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html

 

I make the same power and have a Monster Stage 2 and it's great. It's lighter than the LS7 clutch and can be much lighter with a 18 lb flywheel.

 

Wow thanks for all of the knowledge here. Like I said, this stuff is new to me. I haven't done anything to strengthen the trans or rear so this gives me a good idea. I need to watch what I'm spending because I'm saving for a wedding in January. Aka I need to hide some this money....what would you recommend I do while I do the clutch and flywheel? I've gotten most of my work done at horse power addicts in DE so I'm looking for their profess all honest advice.

I appreciate all the help. Thanks

 

If your going Ls7 housing,clutch pad & solenoid it’s fine like you said though the heavier flywheel will carry more momentum and stored energy this could be both a good thing and a bad thing as there will be additional torque.My car makes the extra power so I might not feel the loss but it’s only about 5 lbs comparison bxt the stock fly and Ls7

 

Couple of great options posted here.

 

Check out the Mantic Er2 if you don't plan to add boost any time soon.

 

The Ls7 clutch kit includes everything you need to get the job done if done correctly and all other parts are functional. The manic er2 is rated for 550 and cost more then a kit with everything. Ls7 holds 650 I have the spec reports if any one would like them posted!

 

I have the same deal, Rst with matching steel flywheel, a real nice unit, , and the reason I mention it is to bring up how well it modulates.

I wanted the poster to be aware that aftermarket clutches are often sold to racers as the primary market , and are designed to work like an on off switch as much as possible. So, you want a street design, if you have street needs.The RST is double overkill for my needs, but heard it was a a lightly softer pedal than stock , so went for it.

I also paid a corvette garage to do the work. The labor cost is a very good reason to take the offered advice, and anything else you can find, about stuff best done when the car is apart.

As an example, I was told the connectors in my torque tube would be good for about another 40, 000 miles. Sounded like a lot, but now, a handful of years later, I'm looking at a healthy $1000 plus to get to the torque tube assembly one more time. All because I didn't know enough to understand the direction the shop manager was steering the job, the possibility of more work later on against some friendly advice.. The decision was all mine, and a guy with a garage queen would see things differently.

One part I didn't see mentioned was a new master for the new slave cylinder. I went with the LS6 master, a direct drop in , a little bigger fluid reservoir, , but offers a slightly improved cap over the c5. If you decide on replacing that part.