Run it how it is for a while. Just because your battery showed good static voltage the last time you tested it doesn't mean it wasn't going bad under a load. Not all battery load testers are created equal.

See how it plays out from here, if it comes back then we can re-attack.

 

I've had a couple of very insignificant blips on the electrical radar... and a couple of weird car sputterings... pull key message... etc.
Turned key off, waited, restarted, NEVER seen them again...I guess she just wants to remind me every now and then WHO'S really the boss in this relationship and she CAN, if she wants to... ruin my day. I just pat the steering wheel and sweet talk her... a little cooing goes a long way. I also pray to the C5 gods that she never unleashes her full on electrical nightmares on me...
Maybe she has just forgiven you for some unbeknownst thought or action you took...
It's NOT a very technical solution for the tech section, but, in the less technical realm of the C5 world of electrical karma, it works.

 

Tried the key several times before work and it worked each time.

At this point we're going to put the dash back together because it's probably not the new ignition switch we put in.

We will pull the door harness and check those connections. Tried to do that the other day but I couldn't get the accordian boot out of the frame and was afraid I was going to break it so I left it.

Just so you know one of the little kids in the neighborhood has seriously suggested that the car might be an Autobot. So I've got that going for me.

Thanks again for so much great information.

 

When you install a NEW IGNITION SWITCH,, you also need to carefully examine the two connectors that plug into the switch. The FEMALE PINS in the two connectors can and will spread apart.

When they spread apart, they make a poor connection and can intermittently cause the HOT IN RUN & START power to different areas of the car to fail or run at a lower than normal voltage.

IF,,,,,,, you continue to have issues, pop the connectors OFF the ignition switch and see if ANY of the female pins are spread apart

NOTE! The ONLY real test to see if you have proper MALE PIN to FEMALE PIN connection,,, is to conduct a pin PUSH/PULL TEST. Find a male pin that is the same size as the male pins inside the old ignition switch and insert the male pin into the female pin. You SHOULD have a nice firm insertion and extraction resistance. IF,,, the fit is loose and you have little of poor drag in the male pin,, you need to repair or replace that female pin.

Here is a picture of spread female pins in that connector.. Ive seen some that were so spread that they caused the femal pin to heat up and MELT the connector cell where the pin lives:

The two in the black connector are very spread and had little or no drag on a male pin!



When the car fails,, without changing anything, read the HOT IN RUN & START voltage on all the ignition voltage supplied fuses for the BCM/PCM/COILs etc...
NOTE! Each FUSE has two test slots on top of the fuses that you can read with a volt meter to chassis ground.

Bill

 

Well...I pulled out all the connectors and they looked good. I wish I could say why it's working now but I have no idea.

I'm not going to screw around with it anymore though unless I have a problem again.

Thanks again to everyone for taking the time to help me. I really appreciate it so much!!!

Kate