F55 suspension issue
I know about the shock stuffers being left in; that's not the problem.
Local dealer checked for codes (none found), tested shocks ("cycled" electronics?) and checked for leaks. I picked up the car and and ticket simply said "no problem found with shocks."
They act like I'm imagining it, but when the car was new it took hard dips and bumps in stride (in Tour). So what could be the problem? Something other than shocks to check?
When I dropped in on the dealer, he just checked the shocks (only) as a courtesy... They requested I schedule an appointment to leave it all day (mid-September) and they would look at other possibilities. So I'm looking for any advice here for other things they should check out.
Also, thanks for the instructions to check the codes myself.
Anything else that could have loosened/broken to affect the ride?
I've seen C6 F55 shocks available, but not for C5 (apparently). Why is that? If other (non-F55) shocks are interchangeable between C5 & C6, why not the F55's?? Some electrical difference?
For those who've switched F55 to C6 Z06, how does the ride compare? That is, does it feel like something between the "Tour" & "Sport" of the F55, or does it lean toward "Sport"?
IF it won't would someone chime in and tell me it will work for the F45 but NOT the F55 or even confirm this procedure will in fact work for either...as an alternative delete....
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-my-98-a.html
Last edited by 73Corvette; Aug 31, 2015 at 12:37 PM.
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Handling with the Bilsteins is better than F45 "Performance" mode, yet the shocks absorb bumps much better than the shot F45s on "Touring". Still it's no Cadillac and big problems will give a good jolt, but you can definitely feel the shocks doing their job.
I called around about 6 dealers to do the F45 deletion and none were opposed to doing the procedure, but all save for one were booked until later in the week. That one ended up charging $145. Abel Chevy quoted $100, but their service dept only works weekdays. One dealer thought the procedure was impossible, but was open to checking out the write up posted here. All the others seemed familiar and willing.
Just for reference.
Swapped out for C6 Z06 shocks that I got from a fellow forum member... and ALL the above is GONE... they ride, handle the varying road conditions awesome... they are NOT stiff, they are firm, they are NOT soft they are forgiving.
I don't know how they compare to the Bilstein or C5 Z shocks either... haven't tried them...but, I don't think I'll ever know because I am TOTALLY satisfied with the C6 Z06 shocks... hope this helps





http://www.lord.com/products-and-sol...cal-(mr)-fluid
The suspension control module provides an electrical signal to a COIL inside the shock (around that orifice) When the field is WEAK, the fluid flows through the orifice easily without much effort or restriction.
As the magnetic field increases, the magneto-rheological (MR) fluid gets THICK due to it magnetic properties and the shock stiffens up.
Here is a test that you can do: Disconnect one end of the shock. Test the shocks rebound and compression by hand (ignition OFF) and see what it feels like. Turn the ignition ON and set the suspension mode to each setting and test the shock at each setting. It should get firmer as the settings go from tour to performance.
I have never put my hands on a F-55 shock so I can NOT tell you if it nitrogen pressurized or not. Maybe some one who knows can chime in. I know the F-45 shocks ARE pressurized. Found out the HARD way when we broke off a valve on the side of the shock!


The F-55 should also be but don't hold me to that. See if there is a PRESSURE WARNING on the body of the shock. If there is, when you disconnect one end of the shock, it should EXPAND with a good bit of force.
If that shock has THREE different firmness when the selector is changed, the controller and the shock is working. If it were me,,,, I would conduct the test on the remaining three shocks.
IF, you want a used set of F-55 shocks,,, contact VETTE NUTS
(Marc). He MAY,,,,, have some but, its tough to get a good set off a used car.
Also, they must be pressurized, since they certainly are difficult to compress........
Plasticman
From what I've read of the F55 shocks dying, it seems that the owners could no longer tell the difference between "Tour" and "Sport". Is that true in all cases?
I'm still able to feel a significant difference between "Tour" and "Sport", so it would seem that the shocks are not dead. Something is going on. The problem is in "Tour," as the car sounds like it is bottoming-out through big dips where it didn't before. "Sport" seems normal.
Last edited by Wes AE; Sep 2, 2015 at 09:22 AM.
From what I've read of the F55 shocks dying, it seems that the owners could no longer tell the difference between "Tour" and "Sport". Is that true in all cases?
I'm still able to feel a significant difference between "Tour" and "Sport", so it would seem that the shocks are not dead. Something is going on. The problem is in "Tour," as the car sounds like it is bottoming-out through big dips where it didn't before. "Sport" seems normal.
Hope that helps.





Going to the STEALERSHIP, will net you either:SIR,,,, We cant find NOTHING wrong. There are NO CODES and they are not leaking.
OR
We recommend replacing all four shocks! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
They are NOT going to try any of the TEST that I recommended unless you are willing to shell out $120+ and hour for them to investigate and that may also cause them to tell you; "We recommend replacing all four shocks! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$"
Test them your self and decide if you want to get replacements your self at a much lower price than the STEALERSHIP and or install them, your self. See if they are still pressurized and actually change dampening and rebound when you change settings.
The other option is to get rid of the F-55 and run some purpose built performance shocks and maybe up-grade the springs and sway bars to Z51, ZO6 or C6 Z51 equipment. All of which are very doable.
Bill
Hope that helps.
Thanks for your input.






The NITROGEN Pressure inside the shock is added to prevent the oil inside from cavaitating when the shock is placed under extreme operating conditions.
Once the nitrogen charge is gone, anytime the shock extends and rebounds, the oil can cavitate as it squeases through the dampening valve orifices and that decrease shocks performance.
Shocks work as designed when they flow hydraulic fluid through the dampening valves inside the shock. Without a pressurized cylinder, that shock hydraulic oil will have air in it and significantly decrease the shocks ability to dampen the wheels motion.
When you test the shock by hand, it still may have some compression and rebound resistance BUT,, When you drive over a really rough road with a LOT of irregular surfaces that cycles the shock through hundreds of cycles per minute, the shock starts to fail as air bubbles and foam form in the oil and you loose wheel contact with the road.
Shocks wear out very very slowly. Then one day when you get a little aggressive in a high speed maneuver and the car looses control or feels like grand dads Buick weaving and bobbing down the road; you wonder why your high dollar sports car handling SUCKS!

When you put new shocks on the car, you will end up saying to your self: HOLY CRAP,,,
,,, Why the hell did I wait so long to do this??

I purchase my C6 ZO6 shocks from Gene or Patrick at Cultrag Performance. Good people and good prices!
C6 ZO6 shocks are 100% bolt in without ANY modifications!
NOTE! (F-45 & F-55 RPO will require BCM RPO modification with the GM TECH 2)
Here is a link to C6 ZO6 Shocks, sway bars and springs:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rformance.html
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Sep 2, 2015 at 04:04 PM.








Did the same on our 03 AE convert., and extremely pleased!
