With my car at idle, my lights dim every few seconds. Volt meter drops from 13.2 to 11.8 and back up again. The display for the radio and temp flutters as well while driving.

Any clues?

Thanks...

 

How old is your battery?. You might check and make sure that is not leaking any acid (usually from around the positive terminal). A battery that is leaking or has a dead cell can cause some weird things to start suddenly happening!

 

In the A.M., after the car has sat all night measure the battery voltage. 100% charge is approximately 12.6 volts, anything lower than that is low and places an undue burden on the alternator diode bridge and regulator. Put a charger on it and see if it will take a full charge. Sounds like a battery issue.With the car running measure the Vout at the alternator, should be 13.8 to 14.1 or whatever the manual says. I'd try charging the batt and see if it will top up. If the car sits for extended periods of time, use a float charger. It trickle charges, starting @ 1A and diminishing to 50ma or so and will not cook the batt.
rgds,
RG
Sedona AZ :)

 

Here is another electrical challenge. My '99 keeps burning out the right front turn signal/DTRL bulb. Volts vary from 12.7 to 14.3 while driving and idleing.

Any ideas?

It still has the stock battery, there are no signs of leaking acid.

 

I'm running a fairly new Optima yellow top. The car will sometimes sit a day or two, but is pretty much a daily driver.

What else besides the battery, could cause my problem?

 

Check battery terminal bolts for proper torque & check all chassis grounds.

 

It sounds like you have an intermittent short to me. I would check to see if you have any codes. To check the codes:
Turn ON the ignition switch, engine OFF.
Press the RESET button to acknowledge any warning messages present.
Press the OPTIONS button on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and hold.
While holding the OPTIONS button press the FUEL button 4 times within a 10 second period.

System will first enter automatic display mode. Copy down all DTC codes that are displayed. When all DTC codes have been displayed for all systems, the IPC will display NO MORE CODES for 2 seconds then will enter manual display mode. Diagnostics will automatically exited if no DIC buttons are pressed for longer than 60 seconds.

Then come back here and post what you have. I can't believe that no codes will show up.


[Modified by SFVetteman, 10:25 AM 8/24/2002]

 

These are the codes I'm getting. Do I know what they mean? No :rolleyes:

If they would just s l o w down a little bit:

BORFA
u1255h
c1064h
c1016h
c2115h c
c2120h

38RTD
c1790h

AOLDCM
b2282h
b2284h
u1255h
u1064h
u1016h
u1096h

A1RDCM
u2285h
u1255h
u1064h
u1016h
u1096h


I think that's all of them. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks...



[Modified by btsoom, 3:14 PM 8/24/2002]

 

Don't worry about how fast they cycle through. At the end of the automatic cycle the DIC will go into manual mode and then you can move forward or backward, writing down the codes at your own pace, by pushing the required buttons next to the display.

Here is your translation:

BORFA = Remote Function Activation (Key fobs, tire sensors, etc.)

U 1255 H = Serial Data Line Malfunction (History)
C 1064 H = Loss of Communication with DCM (History)
C 1016 H = Loss of Communication with PCM (History)
C 2115 H C = Left Rear TPM Sensor Malfunction (History) (Current)
C 2120 H = TPM (Tire Pressure Monitor) System Malfunction (History)

38 RTD = Real Time Damping (Suspension System)

C 1790 H = Ride Control Switch Out of Range (History)

AO LDCM = Left Door Control Module

B 2282 H = Battery # 1 Fault DCM - LEFT (History)
B 2284 H = Battery # 2 Fault DCM - LEFT (History)
U 1255 H = Serial Data Line Malfunction (History)
U 1064 H = Loss of Communication with DCM (History)
U 1016 H = Loss of Communication with PCM (HIstory)
U 1096 H = Loss of Communication with IPC (History)

A1 RDCM = Right Door Control Module

U 2285 H = Not listed in my Service Manual for my Y2K coupe (History)
U 1255 H = Serial Data Link Malfunction - RFA (History)
U 1064 H = Loss of Comm with DCM (No SOH Msg Recvd - RFA) (History)
U 1016 H = Loss of Comm with PCM (No SOH Msg Recvd - RFA) (History)
U 1096 H = Loss of Comm with IPC (No SOH Msg Recvd - RFA (History)

Codes with an "H" indicate a history, or a past malfunction. Those with a "C" indicate a current condition. Try clearing the codes, driving your car for a few miles, then checking for codes again. See how many of these show up. Your loss of communication codes always occur whenever there is a power interruption, such as disconnecting the battery or pulling fuses. Even though you have a new battery, you might still have it checked. I've gotten new batteries before that were defective. Had one not long ago, brand new, that had a dead cell.


[Modified by redriverjohn, 3:40 PM 8/24/2002]

 

In manual display mode, the FUEL and GAGES buttons allow you to scroll through the DTC’s within each system. The TRIP and OPTIONS buttons allow you to scroll through each system. The E/M button is used to exit diagnostics and the RESET button will clear all of the DTC’s.

All of the DTC’s that begin with ‘U’ tend to show up when some of the systems have a problem. So you need not be concerned with those at this point. The TPM DTC’s are most likely an unrelated problem (bad sensor). The codes, B2282, B2284 as well as B2285 (U2285-probably read it wrong) relate to battery voltage that is not between 8.5 volts and 16.3 volts. These DTC’s can only be set as history (H) even if the malfunction is current.

C1790 refers to your F45 adjustable suspension switch or wiring. The DTC sets when the voltage is under 0.5 volts or over 4.5 volts. This DTC will set as history (H) if the problem is intermittent.

At this point it might be good to clear the DTC’s:
Turn ON the ignition switch, engine OFF.
Press the RESET button to acknowledge any warning messages present.
Press the OPTIONS button on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and hold.
While holding the OPTIONS button press the FUEL button 4 times within a 10 second period.
Let the system go through automatic display mode and into manual display mode.
Select each of the systems using the TRIP button (for the next system) and the OPTION button (for the previous system)
Press and hold the RESET button for each system displayed.
When completed, press the E/M button to exit.

While you have the ignition on and the car not running take a look at the volt gage. It should read out the battery voltage, around 12 or a little less. Start the car and look at the volt gage again. It should read somewhere around 13 or a bit more. Turn the car off and check the DTC’s again.

My best guess is that assuming your alternator output is OK and the codes reappear, the problem is an intermittent short in the F45 switch or wiring. The door modules (LDCM and RDCM) are setting because of the voltage drop that the short is causing. To check it out further you really need a scan tool :(

If the C1790 code does not reappear but some or all of the 'B' codes reappear then the probem probably lies in one of the door modules or wiring. Again to check it out further you really need a scan tool :(

Hope this helps


[Modified by SFVetteman, 8:17 PM 8/24/2002]