Ide say, you may have found it. When the car freaks out, without turning off the ignition, read the DTCs. If you have messages, press RESET till they go away.

Clear what DTCs you have now.

BC

 

So you want me to clear the codes? What then?

 

Read the DTCs immediately when the issue happens again, BEFORE you turn the ignition off!! Report those results.

BC

 

11-26-15 Update:

Dash finally went out. Here are my codes:


U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
C1278 C1278 TCS Temporarily Inhibited By PCM
U1160 Loss of Communications with LDCM
B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range

B2795 Suspension Control Select Switch Circuit Malf

Some background is needed. This all happened this morning. Last night I picked up my C5 from a heads/C/I install. Dynoed as well.

Coming home I was in stop/go traffic and the car was inconsistently dying on me (manual) when taking off and then pushing in the clutch on my way to stopping. Another thing happened on the way home. I got a "Engine Power Reduced" reading in the dash that was accompanied with my traction control symbol. To describe this sensation, it was like putting a restrictor plate on the car...barely kept speed and slowed going up hills even with changing gears and mashing the gas pedal.

Any insight?

10-13-15 Update:

Everything decided to work for a brief moment. Long enough for me to clear all codes. A new twist: The driver's window rolled down on its own. I had gauges for a few minutes. Now I am back to nothing. I will get the fresh codes whenever the Vette decides to work.


Got it. Stay Tuned.

Before I had a chance to clear the codes, the gauges went dark. Wiggled the accordian and floor pan wires to no avail. So we will have to wait until the the gauges come on again.

 

more information now.

 

Plain and simple.... You have a Serial Buss data issue.

The VERY first place to start is the door harness connectors.
You MUST,,,,,,,,, conduct a pin pull test to see which female pins are deficient and fix them.

The OTHER module that is on the same buss is the Seat Control Module. Sometimes,, the seat harness connector can become damaged because it comes loose and gets damaged when the seat moves.

Check that too.

You can isolate all three modules at one time by finding the serial buss STAR connectors to the LEFT of the BCM. They are thin connectors. Find the one with FOUR wires and pop the shorting cap off the top of the connector. The LDCM RDCM & SCM are now isolated.

 

Guess what I am doing tomorrow?

 

Here is what you are looking for. There are two of them. As Bill said, you want to open up the one with 4 wires.





Here is the serial bus schematic.




Disregard the Red circle.


Mr. Sam

 

Friday:

Took driver's seat out and disconnected everything I could within reason and sprayed the CorrosionX in the male/female slots. Nothing appears loose or corrosive...see pix in link below which is where I will update as I move along. So I am moving along to the driver's kick panel.

Pix: https://drive.google.com/folderview?...XM&usp=sharing


at the risk of sounding lazy, judging by your diagram it looks like the serial bus is over in the passenger floor board. I am working up a game plan now.

What specifically am I looking for in the pin test? Corrosion? loose pins? if it is loose pins, how do I remedy?

 

The female pins in the POWER PLUG spread apart and loose GRIP on the male pin. The ONLY way to be 100% sure the female pin is proper, is to use a spare male pin and insert it into the female pins. Should be a good tight fit on insertion retraction.

bill

 

The proper way to fix the damaged pins is to DISCONECT the battery, remove the retainer on the back of the connector and pull out the pins and either reform the tong that grips the pin OR crimp on a new pin.

I have successfully used a dental pick and fixed it from the front of the plug but its tough to do it correctly.

BC

 

Yes, the Star connectors are in the passenger foot well and left of the Fuse box and BCM. Pulling the top off of the 4 wire one will isolate any door or seat related serial bus issues.

Bill is talking about checking out the connectors in the A-pillars after you pull out the accordion "boot" and access the connector there. One is for the speakers and the other is for the door controls and has the serial bus wire in it. It is a Black 6 pin connector you want at each door. Bill can correct in the interim if I am wrong.


Mr. Sam

 

The STAR connectors ARE NOT YOUR PROBLEM! The STAR connectors are commonly used to ISOLATE the issues. Here are the STAR CONNECTORS:





When you disconnect the shorting buss top, you isolate the LDCM, RDCM and SCM from the rest of the cars seril data signals.

The LDCM & RDCM harness connector in the A PILLAR are whats causing all your issues!

HERE ARE THE DOOR CONNECTORS:




As you can see the pin on the top center female pin is deformed and it had a very poor push/pull resistance when testing with a male pin:

 

I understand Bill. I was just trying to help isolate the issue.

 

I am not seeing any loose females c/x. While I have the connectors out, I would like to place additional males in so I do not have to do this again. Take a look at my Pix link below...there are a bunch of pix of what I am seeing. See if you notice something out of the norm that I need to look into closer.

Meanwhile, where do I find extra male pins and a crimping tool for this?

Again...Mr. Sam, Bill thanx for taking time out of your life to help me.

 

I tried to, but I can't find your link.

 

Pix: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6N...ew?usp=sharing