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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 03:46 PM
  #1  
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Default Need some input!!!

There is probably a thread here about my assumed issue, but I have not yet been able to locate it. If you happen to have a link to steer me in the right direction that would be great... if not and advice would help.

Yesterday I was driving along and everything was great. I stopped at a red light and once green I started to go along enjoying a nice cruise. Right as I got to 30 mph (casual driving) the the can suddenly had no power to the wheels. I recently replaced my clutch and have no issues there (as far as I know).

What the car is doing:
The clutch pedal still feels great and I can shift in and out of every gear but when I let of the clutch nothing happens. When I put it into reverse and let out the clutch you can feel the car have a very light "hiccup" (not quite a jerk) but then nothing happens. When in gear with the clutch out and hitting the gas a little bit the car just does not move, I hear no sounds, no metal scraping, no rubbing; it just sounds like it is accelerating as normal.

My thoughts are that something happened with the torque tube and its just not engaging with the transmission.

There was no smoke, no loud sounds, and no leaks when the issue took place.

Any thoughts??
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 10:31 PM
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tblu92
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
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Sounds like your clutch hydraulic system needs to be "bled" to remove all the air from the system---Air bubbles is your clutch will not allow the clutch to engage--
If you recently replaced your clutch sounds like they did NOT bleed it properly----Take it back !!
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 10:42 PM
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Air in the hydraulics keeps the clutch from disengaging.

You're describing what happens when an output shaft breaks but that shouldn't have happened without you being hard on it.
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 11:35 PM
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Sticks416
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Originally Posted by Sticks416
There is probably a thread here about my assumed issue, but I have not yet been able to locate it. If you happen to have a link to steer me in the right direction that would be great... if not and advice would help.

Yesterday I was driving along and everything was great. I stopped at a red light and once green I started to go along enjoying a nice cruise. Right as I got to 30 mph (casual driving) the the can suddenly had no power to the wheels. I recently replaced my clutch and have no issues there (as far as I know).

What the car is doing:
The clutch pedal still feels great and I can shift in and out of every gear but when I let of the clutch nothing happens. When I put it into reverse and let out the clutch you can feel the car have a very light "hiccup" (not quite a jerk) but then nothing happens. When in gear with the clutch out and hitting the gas a little bit the car just does not move, I hear no sounds, no metal scraping, no rubbing; it just sounds like it is accelerating as normal.

My thoughts are that something happened with the torque tube and its just not engaging with the transmission.

There was no smoke, no loud sounds, and no leaks when the issue took place.

Any thoughts??
Update:
Just had the car towed back to my house and after we got it off the truck I figured I would start it up again to further inspect what is going on. When I put it into gear and let off the clutch, it sounds like torque tube (or what sounds like a drive shaft spinning when a UV joint is broken off) but still no movement (which would make sense). My neighbor mentioned something about a bushing? Im going to try and look up some info, and any more input would be appreciated. Thanks to those who have already chimed in!
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 07:23 AM
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Additional info on the car would help bud. Year, model mileage, mods, stock or after market clutch and hydraulics etc. It could be issues related to improper bleed of hydraulics, it may be related to shifter and tranny, depending on year it could power related issues to sylinoids used in earlier models. As you said it may be torque tube related.
The thread below shows what old, worn couplers in the torque tube look like. This is what we found during my driveline upgrades this year. This was a 97 MN6 with stock tube couplers. If one of them gave up the ghost, they could also cause the issues deacribed.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...m-changed.html

Good luck finding the problem

Last edited by ezrider4u2; Oct 18, 2015 at 07:26 AM.
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 01:43 PM
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Sticks416
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From: Greenville SC
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Originally Posted by ezrider4u2
Additional info on the car would help bud. Year, model mileage, mods, stock or after market clutch and hydraulics etc. It could be issues related to improper bleed of hydraulics, it may be related to shifter and tranny, depending on year it could power related issues to sylinoids used in earlier models. As you said it may be torque tube related.
The thread below shows what old, worn couplers in the torque tube look like. This is what we found during my driveline upgrades this year. This was a 97 MN6 with stock tube couplers. If one of them gave up the ghost, they could also cause the issues deacribed.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...m-changed.html

Good luck finding the problem
Vehicle is a 2003 Z06 M6. Car is virtually stock with just under 58,000 original miles, except for K&N Filter. When the clutch was done (about 800 miles ago) we also replaced the slave and added the remote bleeder. Car has been driving great and feeling stronger than ever. I will hopefully be able to get under the car this week to take a look. Thanks for the thread link!
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 01:35 AM
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
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You could have also broken a rear axle output shaft in your diff----This is very common on a manual trans when doing hard launches and popping the clutch---That is why they sell hardened output shafts for a Corvette rear diff If I remember right it's usually the left side that breaks 1st----
If your car ever hopped badly on a hard launch---You may have broken the output shaft
PS: these are NOT the rear half shafts you see under the car with u joints--they are inside the diff and NOT visible
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 07:32 AM
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There is a centering bushing on each end of the driveshaft and the coupler bolts overlap so you don't lose drive as the couplers wear and come apart until hard parts fail.
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