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I'd like to lower my 03 ride height some. It seems simple, just back off the adjusting studs. Questions:
1. I've heard that you don't just measure to the frame, why not? If not, where do you measure to?
2. What is the lowest front ride height possible without getting into bump steer?
3. Do the studs work loose, should locktite be used?
There's a right way and a wrong way to do it. Here is a post in the DIY sticky on how to do it properly. Read it all and learn.
Bump steer isn't the issue it's suspension travel limits. If you hit the bump stops the car will handle and ride poorly, no matter what waxers who lower car into the weeds and don't know what a good handling car is really like say.
The minimum for good performance is explained in the post.
No the studs don't work loose and never use Loctite on the front adjusting bolts. They get deformed and end up getting stuck and you can easily ruin your spring if they are locked up. Put too much torque on them and you will twist the inserts out of the spring and you'll be looking for a new spring.
Finally remember that these cars are over a dozen years old. The rear bolts aren't generally a problem, but the fronts get stuck and it's easy to ruin the spring if the front bolts won't turn. PB blaster is your friend, and you should soak the front bolts in it for a few days before you even think of trying to turn them.
Last edited by Solofast; Oct 25, 2015 at 12:01 AM.
.....Finally remember that these cars are over a dozen years old. The rear bolts aren't generally a problem, but the fronts get stuck and it's easy to ruin the spring if the front bolts won't turn. PB blaster is your friend, and you should soak the front bolts in it for a few days before you even think of trying to turn them.
The factory shop manual calls out the inner, lower a-arm pivot bolts, as the basis for ride height measurements.
There's a right way and a wrong way to do it. Here is a post in the DIY sticky on how to do it properly. Read it all and learn.
Bump steer isn't the issue it's suspension travel limits. If you hit the bump stops the car will handle and ride poorly, no matter what waxers who lower car into the weeds and don't know what a good handling car is really like say.
The minimum for good performance is explained in the post.
No the studs don't work loose and never use Loctite on the front adjusting bolts. They get deformed and end up getting stuck and you can easily ruin your spring if they are locked up. Put too much torque on them and you will twist the inserts out of the spring and you'll be looking for a new spring.
Finally remember that these cars are over a dozen years old. The rear bolts aren't generally a problem, but the fronts get stuck and it's easy to ruin the spring if the front bolts won't turn. PB blaster is your friend, and you should soak the front bolts in it for a few days before you even think of trying to turn them.
Thanks for your reply. Read your fine post. You answered my questions about where to measure and how low to go. I'll get rid of the aftermarket front bolts with cheap slip-over pads that are working their way off the heads and go back to the stock Z06 bolts with firmly mounted stiffer pads. Likewise, I'll replace the aftermarket rear bolts with stock, thanks for the heads up on that mistake. Regarding the fit of the front bolts, mine are loose, very loose, can easily remove and wiggle them with fingers. This holds true for both my original Z06 front spring (that was damaged) and its replacement.
Thanks for your reply. Read your fine post. You answered my questions about where to measure and how low to go. I'll get rid of the aftermarket front bolts with cheap slip-over pads that are working their way off the heads and go back to the stock Z06 bolts with firmly mounted stiffer pads. Likewise, I'll replace the aftermarket rear bolts with stock, thanks for the heads up on that mistake. Regarding the fit of the front bolts, mine are loose, very loose, can easily remove and wiggle them with fingers. This holds true for both my original Z06 front spring (that was damaged) and its replacement.
What is most likely happening is that the threads are getting distorted from the side loads on the bolts. I would look and see if you can get a set of low profile nuts and put them under the spring on the adjusting bolts. Run them all the way down on the bolts and set your ride height and then run the bolts up against the spring insert and tighten it up. That will do a couple of things. First it will take some of the load off of the existing threads and second it will lock the bolt in the spring and keep it from wobbling and getting worse. The poly pads on the stock bolts slide on the control arm and are supposed to limit the bending in the bolts, but as you have found there remains some bending in the bolts and that tends to eventually distort the threads in the inserts.
What is most likely happening is that the threads are getting distorted from the side loads on the bolts. I would look and see if you can get a set of low profile nuts and put them under the spring on the adjusting bolts. Run them all the way down on the bolts and set your ride height and then run the bolts up against the spring insert and tighten it up. That will do a couple of things. First it will take some of the load off of the existing threads and second it will lock the bolt in the spring and keep it from wobbling and getting worse. The poly pads on the stock bolts slide on the control arm and are supposed to limit the bending in the bolts, but as you have found there remains some bending in the bolts and that tends to eventually distort the threads in the inserts.
You read my mind, I'm going to get nuts tomorrow. Just curious, what do you run in autocrossing? What mods have you done to your car? I was thinking I'd like to try to run my car at a Good Guys car show in Scottsdale. Thanks again for your input.