Problems Bleeding TICK clutch master
MANY THANKS,
Bill
Last edited by StingrayRebel; Nov 3, 2015 at 10:49 AM.

And I'll add that you really should not be cycling the MC piston without being hooked up to the slave. Hopefully you didn't damage your MC. The only way for the piston to move in that situation is by internally bypassing fluid. Then when the piston retracts, it's either going to pull air through the quick disconnect or past the piston seals themselves or both. Basically a hydraulic system works by using one half to build pressure and the other half to react to that pressure. You only have half of that equation right now. The pressure has nowhere to go.
Do as Neutron said and gravity bleed your master. Have someone keep topping off the reservoir until you don't see any bubbles. And honestly a little air is not that big a deal. I've found these setups do actually self-bleed themselves over time.
We have gravity bled the system this way MANY MANY times. We can still see air trapped in the white plastic reservoir adapter and when we try to bleed it with the clutch we see bubbles being created in the system. I understand what you're saying about having a firm pedal with it disconnected, I just mention this because we do not do seem to have any fluid leaks, or any pressure leak down with constant pressure on the pedal so don't think there's an issue with the seals. Many other posts say they can't get any pedal. Tick says to reconnect everything and then bleed through the clutch slave, but this doesn't make sense with the issues of the bubbles being created on the master cylinder side of the system. I am very fearful that this will just create more problems on the slave side which was fine before we started all of this. Incidentally, we have also tried the modified Ranger method where I have snaked a tube at the end of a full syringe down through the reservoir in an attempt to force more bubbles out of the reservoir adapter, but this does not seem to help either as more bubbles are created when we then pump and bleed with the clutch pedal.

And I'll add that you really should not be cycling the MC piston without being hooked up to the slave. Hopefully you didn't damage your MC. The only way for the piston to move in that situation is by internally bypassing fluid. Then when the piston retracts, it's either going to pull air through the quick disconnect or past the piston seals themselves or both. Basically a hydraulic system works by using one half to build pressure and the other half to react to that pressure. You only have half of that equation right now. The pressure has nowhere to go.
Do as Neutron said and gravity bleed your master. Have someone keep topping off the reservoir until you don't see any bubbles. And honestly a little air is not that big a deal. I've found these setups do actually self-bleed themselves over time.
We have gravity bled the system this way MANY MANY times. We can still see air trapped in the white plastic reservoir adapter and when we try to bleed it with the clutch we see bubbles being created in the system. I understand what you're saying about having a firm pedal with it disconnected, I just mention this because we do not do seem to have any fluid leaks, or any pressure leak down with constant pressure on the pedal so don't think there's an issue with the seals. Many other posts say they can't get any pedal. Tick says to reconnect everything and then bleed through the clutch slave, but this doesn't make sense with the issues of the bubbles being created on the master cylinder side of the system. I am very fearful that this will just create more problems on the slave side which was fine before we started all of this. Incidentally, we have also tried the modified Ranger method where I have snaked a tube at the end of a full syringe down through the reservoir in an attempt to force more bubbles out of the reservoir adapter, but this does not seem to help either as more bubbles are created when we then pump and bleed with the clutch pedal.







