'01 AC Problems
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
'01 AC Problems
I just finished installing a new AC Delco compressor, dryer, and condenser with new orifice tube.
Completely flushed all lines and evaporator. Pressure checked and evacuated system.
It will only take about 14 oz R134 and the clutch does not activate.
Pressure reads 100 psi on both high and low side. Ambient temp is about 87°. Any suggestions?
Completely flushed all lines and evaporator. Pressure checked and evacuated system.
It will only take about 14 oz R134 and the clutch does not activate.
Pressure reads 100 psi on both high and low side. Ambient temp is about 87°. Any suggestions?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I just finished installing a new AC Delco compressor, dryer, and condenser with new orifice tube.
Completely flushed all lines and evaporator. Pressure checked and evacuated system.
It will only take about 14 oz R134 and the clutch does not activate.
Pressure reads 100 psi on both high and low side. Ambient temp is about 87°. Any suggestions?
Completely flushed all lines and evaporator. Pressure checked and evacuated system.
It will only take about 14 oz R134 and the clutch does not activate.
Pressure reads 100 psi on both high and low side. Ambient temp is about 87°. Any suggestions?
When you add 134 to the LOW/SUCTION SIDE, the can MUST be upright to prevent liquid from getting into the gas side.
Sit the can in a small bucket of HOT water. That will help the liquid R-134 in the can to flash to gas. Once the system pressure sensor senses pressure it will allow the compressor to kick on until the pressure drops low again. It will cycle on and off till the pressure comes up on the suction side.
Do you have the pressure sensor connected that on the high pressure line??
Is the R-134 gage hose actually depressing the low suction line Schrader valve and allowing the 134 into the system?
Have you read the DTCs for the HVAC System using the DIC???????????????? If not do it and report what you have. Clear ALL the DTCs and see what comes back/
BC
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
Did you add any oil in the system when you installed the new parts? Hope so..
When you add 134 to the LOW/SUCTION SIDE, the can MUST be upright to prevent liquid from getting into the gas side.
Sit the can in a small bucket of HOT water. That will help the liquid R-134 in the can to flash to gas. Once the system pressure sensor senses pressure it will allow the compressor to kick on until the pressure drops low again. It will cycle on and off till the pressure comes up on the suction side.
Do you have the pressure sensor connected that on the high pressure line??
Is the R-134 gage hose actually depressing the low suction line Schrader valve and allowing the 134 into the system?
Have you read the DTCs for the HVAC System using the DIC???????????????? If not do it and report what you have. Clear ALL the DTCs and see what comes back/
BC
When you add 134 to the LOW/SUCTION SIDE, the can MUST be upright to prevent liquid from getting into the gas side.
Sit the can in a small bucket of HOT water. That will help the liquid R-134 in the can to flash to gas. Once the system pressure sensor senses pressure it will allow the compressor to kick on until the pressure drops low again. It will cycle on and off till the pressure comes up on the suction side.
Do you have the pressure sensor connected that on the high pressure line??
Is the R-134 gage hose actually depressing the low suction line Schrader valve and allowing the 134 into the system?
Have you read the DTCs for the HVAC System using the DIC???????????????? If not do it and report what you have. Clear ALL the DTCs and see what comes back/
BC
No AC codes.
I added the appropriate 9oz oil to the system. 2oz each for compressor, condenser, evaporator, and dryer plus 1oz in the lines.
I verified that the quick connects worked properly.
Using the hot water method, it took about 4ozs from a partial can and only part of a full can when the hose guage went to max pressure. The compressor never kicked on. Tried battery disconnect reconnect to clear the computer. Still won't take a charge or engage the clutch. Very frustrating.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
When you turn the AC button, what does the AC Light do?
Is the CLUTCH Connector properly connected and undameged? Take the connector off and see if the MALE and FEMALE pins are in good shape Make sure the Female pins are not spread apart and not making proper contact with male pins.
Here the SCHEMATIC for you:
Make sure that you have power at the fuses #16 & 24 to ground. There are TEST points on TOP of the fuse. Measure to chassis ground.
Make sure that the GROUND path to G-102 is 100% good.
If you put a meter across the Compressor Clutch Coil connector, you should see full BATTERY VOLTAGE.
That Diode needs to be properly connected also.
Bill
Is the CLUTCH Connector properly connected and undameged? Take the connector off and see if the MALE and FEMALE pins are in good shape Make sure the Female pins are not spread apart and not making proper contact with male pins.
Here the SCHEMATIC for you:
Make sure that you have power at the fuses #16 & 24 to ground. There are TEST points on TOP of the fuse. Measure to chassis ground.
Make sure that the GROUND path to G-102 is 100% good.
If you put a meter across the Compressor Clutch Coil connector, you should see full BATTERY VOLTAGE.
That Diode needs to be properly connected also.
Bill
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
When you turn the AC button, what does the AC Light do?
Is the CLUTCH Connector properly connected and undameged? Take the connector off and see if the MALE and FEMALE pins are in good shape Make sure the Female pins are not spread apart and not making proper contact with male pins.
Here the SCHEMATIC for you:
Make sure that you have power at the fuses #16 & 24 to ground. There are TEST points on TOP of the fuse. Measure to chassis ground.
Make sure that the GROUND path to G-102 is 100% good.
If you put a meter across the Compressor Clutch Coil connector, you should see full BATTERY VOLTAGE.
That Diode needs to be properly connected also.
Bill
Is the CLUTCH Connector properly connected and undameged? Take the connector off and see if the MALE and FEMALE pins are in good shape Make sure the Female pins are not spread apart and not making proper contact with male pins.
Here the SCHEMATIC for you:
Make sure that you have power at the fuses #16 & 24 to ground. There are TEST points on TOP of the fuse. Measure to chassis ground.
Make sure that the GROUND path to G-102 is 100% good.
If you put a meter across the Compressor Clutch Coil connector, you should see full BATTERY VOLTAGE.
That Diode needs to be properly connected also.
Bill
When I press the AC button, it flashes momentarily then stays off. Pressing again only repeats the result.
The connection on the compressor is good.
I'll run some of your suggested diagnostics this afternoon and let you know my results.
Thanks again for your time and help.
Bob
Last edited by bobbordelon; Nov 4, 2015 at 10:26 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 93
Likes: 1
I literally just did everything you're doing to my Z a few weeks ago. I had a hard time myself.
So I see you replaced most non-flush-able parts. Did you keep flushing until the flush quit coming out dirty? What did your old orifice tube look like?
I saw that you wrote it was evacuated, but did you properly vacuum it for at least 20 minutes?
Did it hold a vacuum for at least 20 minutes with manifold closed and pump off?
I had A LOT of trouble getting my car to take a charge myself.
Bill's and BigGun's recommendations are also great.
Only other thing is try adding the R-134 with the car off, make sure you're ONLY adding through the 'Low' side, not the 'High'. With the car off, add refrigerant. Once the 'High' side equalizes to the low side pressure readings, the compressor is ready to start kicking on. You can now turn the car on, turn A/C on with fan speeds at fastest/coldest settings and finish charging the system.
So I see you replaced most non-flush-able parts. Did you keep flushing until the flush quit coming out dirty? What did your old orifice tube look like?
I saw that you wrote it was evacuated, but did you properly vacuum it for at least 20 minutes?
Did it hold a vacuum for at least 20 minutes with manifold closed and pump off?
I had A LOT of trouble getting my car to take a charge myself.
Bill's and BigGun's recommendations are also great.
Only other thing is try adding the R-134 with the car off, make sure you're ONLY adding through the 'Low' side, not the 'High'. With the car off, add refrigerant. Once the 'High' side equalizes to the low side pressure readings, the compressor is ready to start kicking on. You can now turn the car on, turn A/C on with fan speeds at fastest/coldest settings and finish charging the system.
Last edited by RXPX; Nov 4, 2015 at 05:50 PM.
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
When you turn the AC button, what does the AC Light do?
Is the CLUTCH Connector properly connected and undameged? Take the connector off and see if the MALE and FEMALE pins are in good shape Make sure the Female pins are not spread apart and not making proper contact with male pins.
Here the SCHEMATIC for you:
Make sure that you have power at the fuses #16 & 24 to ground. There are TEST points on TOP of the fuse. Measure to chassis ground.
Make sure that the GROUND path to G-102 is 100% good.
If you put a meter across the Compressor Clutch Coil connector, you should see full BATTERY VOLTAGE.
That Diode needs to be properly connected also.
Bill
Is the CLUTCH Connector properly connected and undameged? Take the connector off and see if the MALE and FEMALE pins are in good shape Make sure the Female pins are not spread apart and not making proper contact with male pins.
Here the SCHEMATIC for you:
Make sure that you have power at the fuses #16 & 24 to ground. There are TEST points on TOP of the fuse. Measure to chassis ground.
Make sure that the GROUND path to G-102 is 100% good.
If you put a meter across the Compressor Clutch Coil connector, you should see full BATTERY VOLTAGE.
That Diode needs to be properly connected also.
Bill
The ONLY thing I haven't tried is jumping the high pressure switch to rule out bad sender. There are 3 wires (red,black, gray) and I don't want to send voltage to the computer. Which 2 wires do I jump to test clutch engagement?
If you have time Bill, maybe a phone call would be helpful.
561-596-0754
Thanks, Bob
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 901
Likes: 131
From: Kerrville, Texas
OK, I checked all of the circuits and they show good.
The ONLY thing I haven't tried is jumping the high pressure switch to rule out bad sender. There are 3 wires (red,black, gray) and I don't want to send voltage to the computer. Which 2 wires do I jump to test clutch engagement?
If you have time Bill, maybe a phone call would be helpful.
561-596-0754
Thanks, Bob
The ONLY thing I haven't tried is jumping the high pressure switch to rule out bad sender. There are 3 wires (red,black, gray) and I don't want to send voltage to the computer. Which 2 wires do I jump to test clutch engagement?
If you have time Bill, maybe a phone call would be helpful.
561-596-0754
Thanks, Bob
Another Bill
Last edited by 88redconvert; Nov 16, 2015 at 06:17 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You really cant JUMP that sensor. Its a 5 vdc sensor and 5 VDC is too HIGH and no volts is too low. You can read the red/black wire to ground and see if theres an output voltage on the wire. It will or should be something LESS than 5 VDC and greater than zero and vary with pressure changes.
If you put the meter leads on the compressor harness plug female pins, what voltge do you get when you press the switch?
You can remove the relay and JUMP R8 & T8 and that will cause the compressor to RUN. I would not run it long like that unless you know that the system has the correct R-134 charge. Connect gages and see what they report when it runs jumped.
BC
If you put the meter leads on the compressor harness plug female pins, what voltge do you get when you press the switch?
You can remove the relay and JUMP R8 & T8 and that will cause the compressor to RUN. I would not run it long like that unless you know that the system has the correct R-134 charge. Connect gages and see what they report when it runs jumped.
BC
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
5 Minutes from flatbed.
You really cant JUMP that sensor. Its a 5 vdc sensor and 5 VDC is too HIGH and no volts is too low. You can read the red/black wire to ground and see if theres an output voltage on the wire. It will or should be something LESS than 5 VDC and greater than zero and vary with pressure changes.
If you put the meter leads on the compressor harness plug female pins, what voltge do you get when you press the switch?
You can remove the relay and JUMP R8 & T8 and that will cause the compressor to RUN. I would not run it long like that unless you know that the system has the correct R-134 charge. Connect gages and see what they report when it runs jumped.
BC
If you put the meter leads on the compressor harness plug female pins, what voltge do you get when you press the switch?
You can remove the relay and JUMP R8 & T8 and that will cause the compressor to RUN. I would not run it long like that unless you know that the system has the correct R-134 charge. Connect gages and see what they report when it runs jumped.
BC
