Good morning my friends... Last night I got in my Vette and drove it down the street. I noticed the clutch pedal felt funny and seemed to be lower to the floor when the clutch grabbed... After three of four stops the transmission would not shift in to any gear except 2nd. It took a lot of work and forced efforts to get it go in this gear. release the pedal maybe 1/4" from the floor and the clutch is fully engaged. drove it home and parked it. I checked the hydraulic fluid and it was just a tad bit low but I topped it off anyway. Still the same thing... No change. I'm open to suggestions as to where to go from here. Can anyone help me on this?

 

Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,, If it were me, knowing what I know from having issues with my 02 ZO6,,,,,,,,, The very first thing that I would replace would be the Clutch Master Cylinder. They get completely FULL of nasty old clutch dust (YEP) that looks like liquid carbon snot. That causes the seal inside the master cyl to give up the ghost inside and bypass fluid.

Its fairly easy to remove the master cyl and replace it. It has a Quick Disconnect COUPLER that connects it to the Slave Cylinder.

IF,,,,,,,,,,, That isn't the issue,,, the slave cylinder is most likely bad and that requires complete drive train removal (Torque Tube, Tranny and Diff)

You can try to completely BLEED the system. That requires exhaust system removal and removal of the tunnel plate.

How any miles on the clutch? If you have to replace the slave cyl, its pretty much time to replace the Slave, pilot bearing, clutch, throwout bearing in one fell swoop!


Bill

 

Thanks Bill... We'll see where to go from here...

 

My throwout bearing just went as well on my 2002 convertible so am thinking I'll just put a Z06 clutch kit in it. I've seen the job done on a Powerblock TV episode and they said don't even attempt it without a 2 post lift. I also recall seeing a quick view of it being done on an episode of Corvette Nation where they were doing clutches at the annual Vette fest for customers and didn't remove as much, instead sliding the driveline back enough to get to the clutch.

I've read on here people who said they've done it on tall jack stands. That sounds no fun and I have to wonder where you put the rear ones since you have to removed (or at least loosen) the rear cradle. Also, I have a 4 post lift and wonder if that can be used since I have a trolley that I can place a jack in to get the rear of the car further up. Or will the lift's runways be in the way?

I've looked in the usual master threads for this job covered on here and done a quick search, but mainly found threads on vibration issues. Can someone point me to a good write-up that addresses these questions?

Thanks,

Doug

 

Well,,, Powerblock TV didnt do ALL the things that needed to be done.. You will need to replace the PILOT BEARING! I dont think you will have enough room to do that just sliding back the drive train.

I did the entire job my self on jack stands. I use a floor jack and a motorcycle lift jack to do all the supporting and lifting

Job on a four post. Hmmmmm,, You still have to raise the rear to remove the rear cradle. Not difficult.

If you need a clutch, you most likely need a LOT of other things:

Differential Output shaft seals
Check the Torque Tube bearings
Check the Torque Tube Couplers

Before you do the job take an hour and check the condition of the limited slip clutches. Jack up one wheel trans in N, other wheel on the ground E Brake OFF. Attempt to rotate the jacked wheel. You will be able to but, there should be a good amount of resistance as you are slipping the clutches in the rearend. If its very easy, you have issues in the clutches limited slip clutches or belivew springs. Do the same for the other wheel.

While you have a wheel off the ground, PUSH PULL at the 12, 6, 3 & 9 O Clock wheel positions to see if the wheel bearing is sloppy. Should NOT be any slop.

Here are my favorite differential post. They should provide you a LOT of info:

- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html

 

Thanks Bill, saw this info on several other threads I found earlier on the search. BTW, it was the Corvette Fest people, not Powerblock, who only slid the drivetrain back instead of dropping it.

So for a daily driver convert like mine with flip-tie cold air mod and Borla exhaust, and no plans to add big power, is the Z06 clutch setup still the way to go? That's what our local Corvette specialist said, especially since it's essentially the same price as stock. Or are there better aftermarket clutch kits for the same price? If I go Z06, is the clutch master cylinder the same or different?

Lastly, I saw on Rockauto most clutch kits there include a new flywheel. I was just planning to have mine resurfaced unless that's not a good idea on these cars for some reason.

 

I have a 4-Post lift too. I am currently working out my plan to use it.

See:
redshift.homestead.com/Drivetrain1.html

One of the previous posts said you can't hold the car up without the
cradle, you just need jackstands under the frame! If you have one of
those new(my lift is 15yrs old) trolly jacks you are in good shape.
Lifting the car high enough above the lift IS the first trick!. I used
two big jackstands and a stack of timbers

I plan to do it without buying a tranny jack and working at a higher
level. I am building a custom dolly to hold the driveline and will raise the
lift to lower the driveline.

Any ideas or comments welcome!

C5GARY

 

ANY more info on just sliding back the driveline????

Thanks,
C5GARY
'99 Pewter coupe 117K miles now!

 

ZO6 clutch is fine fo anything less than 400 RWHP. My 02 ZO6 clutch was happy as a clam with 390 RWHP.

Just make sure you do the entire CLUTCH SYSTEM. Slave, master cyl, pilot brg, throwout bearing, remote bleeder, pressure plate and disk .. It may be less expensive to keep the OEM flywheel, as its already balanced. make sure that you refference mark the PP to FW.

 

Thanks Bill and will definitely heed all the advice you shared in this thread!

 

BTW, where is the best place to buy the full Z06 clutch system? All I saw on Rockauto were aftermarket, so guessing somewhere like Scoggins Dickey?

 

Still wondering where to buy the full Z06 clutch system. Do you just have to go to a dealer with a list or is there a better source or kit?

 

Tick Performance will have what you need. I think they are in Mt. Airy NC now, but they have a website. You can get everything you need form them, and you can call and ask questions if you get in a bind. They have always been good to me and priced right as well. I bought an LS7 clutch and bleeder from them for my 06 CTS-V. I think the LS7 will fit in a C5 as well and is plenty of clutch unless you are over 505hp. Might be a few mods to the LS7 slave, but Tick will know what you need. There is also a steel spacer mod for behind the TO bearing, and be sure to replace the pilot bearing.

 

I called Tick and they said their OEM replacement, including Z06, are made by Luk. Said that is OEM supplier to GM. I remembered this is what's listed on Rockauto, but I also remember there was no different Luk listing for base vs. Z06/LS6.

I also called my local Chevy dealer (the good one that sponsors our local Corvette Club) and they have a pretty good deal on the full Z06 clutch kit, cheaper than Tick but not as good as the Luk through RA. The dealer said the slave is a must but thought it odd I wanted the master cylinder, which they don't even have in stock. They confirmed in 2002 there is only one listing for the clutch master across all Corvettes...wonder if this is like the intake manifolds in 2001+ cars, where base and Z06 are same?

So I figure I'll get the clutch master later if needed since it's not part of the driveline R&R. Appreciate thoughts/experience on the Luk vs. dealer OEM Z06 for a mostly stock convertible daily driver (my mods are mainly focused on handling).

Doug

 

You know, for the cost of a master, I would probably replace it and for sure add a remote bleeder. The remote bleeder sure makes short work out of getting a new clutch RIGHT.

 

Remote bleeder going in for sure. Also checking diff output seals and other things Bill Curlee recommended. Not sure about the clutch master...GM dealer quoted $209, but can probably get elsewhere for a lot less.

Still wonder if the Luk clutch is indeed OEM. If so, guessing their "Pro Gold Performance" is Z06??