Having a shop do my clutch install next week. I have a checklist of things getting done.

-LS7 Clutch kit
-ARP bolt kit
-New OEM Slave
-New Tick Master
-New OEM Pilot Bearing

Anything I'm missing?

 

You are missing a LOT!!!!

Shop should take the CRITICAL throw out bearing measurements to see if you need a shim behind the SLAVE CYL!!!!!!

SHOP should reference punch mark where the OEM flywheel mounts with respect to the crank flange!

Shop should INSPECT the OEM flywheel and see if the FACTORY needed to add any offset balance pins to properly HOT BALANCE the engine.
IF,,, you have offset balance pins in the outside holes of the OEM flywheel,, that weight should be taken into consideration if they install a new flywheel.

I had my new SPEC Flywheel OFF SET BALANCED at a machine shop to MATCH the balance of my old OEM Fly Wheel. I have ZERO engine balance issues!

SAVE the old flywheel until you are POSITIVE that you do not have an engine balance issue!!

Install a long hose remote bleeder on the slave cylinder.



Open the Torque Tube and at least inspect the bearings and rubber couplers. If you find that the rubber couplers (GLUBLOS) are deteriorated,,, REPLACE THEM! If the bearings are rough / noisy, replace them..

Good time to replace the differential output seals.

When I did my SPEC Dual disk clutch, I accomplished a differential improvement program to support my increased HP/Tq:

I found that I had a broken clutch pack beleivew spring!

- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html
-


Hope this helps!

Bill

 

I forgot to mention info have the remote bleeder as well. I guess there's still a lot of other things to consider! Thanks!

 

The CRITICAL SHIM MEASUREMENT is very important to make sure that you properly place the slave so that you don't have too much clearance between the throwout bearing and pressure plate fingers.

That will cause you to NOT be able to fully release the clutch, have very POOR shift quality and damage your Synchros and blocker rings.

Here are the Shims from TICK:

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...nder-shim-055/

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...im-kit-3-pack/

Here is the measurement procedure that needs to be accomplished!!!


http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...nder-shim-055/

THE measurement drawing is shown on each shim page.


NOTE... If your shop doesn't understand the shimming procedure or the balance procedure or will not do it,,, I highly recommend finding a new shop.


Bill

 

Here is the shim procedure straight from TICK!!!

http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html

Bill

 

...the hell, Mark. Where have you been?

 

Hey Ras, I've been around! How have you been, buddy?

 

You notice they said you don't need to shim the Monster clutches? Can that be trusted? I subscribed to that thread though. I plan to measure just to be safe.

 

Measure TWICE, take it apart ONCE!

 

I would not go into that area without replacing the engine rear main seal.

 

Check out torque tube bearings and couplers while apart. Mine were toast at around 100K miles and the pilot bearing had seized up..

 

I would highly recommend using an aluminum flywheel with the ls7 clutch because it's an extremely heavy clutch.

 

Already have the parts ordered. I didn't upgrade to the Fidanza flywheel because I do plan on changing clutch again further down the road once I put on some spray. Until then the OEM LS7 stuff should suffice.

 

Good thread. My throwout bearing just went as well on my 2002 convertible so am thinking I'll just put a Z06 clutch kit in it. I've seen the job done on a Powerblock TV episode and they said don't even attempt it without a 2 post lift. I also recall seeing a quick view of it being done on an episode of Corvette Nation where they were doing clutches at the annual Vette fest for customers and didn't remove as much, instead sliding the driveline back enough to get to the clutch.

I've read on here people who said they've done it on tall jack stands. That sounds no fun and I have to wonder where you put the rear ones since you have to removed (or at least loosen) the rear cradle. Also, I have a 4 post lift and wonder if that can be used since I have a trolley that I can place a jack in to get the rear of the car further up. Or will the lift's runways be in the way?

I've looked in the usual master threads for this job covered on here and done a quick search, but mainly found threads on vibration issues. Can someone point me to a good write-up that addresses these questions?

Thanks,

Doug

 

 

These are some of the pics I have which gives you an idea of the progression of things

 

I've done it on the ground several times. It's not as bad as it sounds. Basically exhaust, unhook shocks, tunnel plate, brake lines, some wiring shifter and then you can drop rear cradle.

You can pull the rear cradle/rear/transmission/torque tube as one big assembly. I used a jack with a "cross beam" adapter and then a super cheap transmission jack for the front end of the torque tube. I just rolled them out from underneath the car.

Hardest part is getting the alignment right when trying to put the input shaft through the clutch. Using a metal alignment tool when putting the clutch in helps; there is a ton of play in the plastic ones. I put a clutch in with the plastic one, then could not even come close to getting the metal one in. Reinstalled with the metal one and the plastic one would just flop around when I installed it.

 

Where did you get a metal alignment tool?

 

http://www.jegs.com/p/RAM-Clutches/R...41310/10002/-1

The pilot bearing section on the one I got was a tiny hair too big. Some sand paper took care of it.. just something to watch out for