F45 simulator question
Z06 shocks. Probably going with the simulators, seems easier to reverse in case of selling my car . Anyway, was looking at the instructions for simulator install, and this note caught my attention:
NOTE: You must CUT the Lt. Blue Wire in Cavity 11 on the RTD Module connector in the vehicle (steering position sensor input) to prevent a potential code from being set.
I have read a lot of posts on here about the simulators, but this never came up. Thoughts / comments anyone?
Last edited by SoAlVette; Dec 4, 2015 at 05:10 PM.





"Probably going with the simulators, seems easier to reverse in case of selling my car "
If I was looking for a C5, I would be looking for one WITH OUT the friggen failure prone F-45 POS option.. That being said, to REVERSE the removal, all you would need to do is RECONNECT the RTD Module Controller Connector. BAM, its DONE! Oh, and you would need to spent the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ for the new RTD shocks.
Oh,, you were going to reinstall the OLD worn out POS shocks..


NOT!!You want WHO to purchase your car with worn out POS OEM F-45 shocks???????????????? NOT ME!!!
Brother,, PLEASE take my advice. Properly GET RID of that SORRY Suspension and replace it with a PURPOSE BUILT PERFORMANCE SYSTEM!
TUNE THAT CRAP OUT the correct way using a GM Tech 2! A C5 is more desireable with a good performance suspension!!!Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 4, 2015 at 09:28 PM.
I agree with what you are saying, I will never put them back on, but the next owner might want the option. I'm having trouble finding anyone local with a Tech II to tune out the F45. Using the simulators, I can do the job from start to finish without having to worry about it for now, and one day, if needed, I might be able to find someone with a Tech II to delete it. That is not the issue right now, I just wanted to know if I have to cut a wire using the simulators to prevent it from throwing a code. I' m aware of the pros and cons, delete vs simulators.
When I bought my C5, I was not aware of the F45 issues, I thought of it as a value added feature, little did I know. If it had been disabled when I bought the car, not knowing, I would have thought something was wrong with it.
Last edited by SoAlVette; Dec 4, 2015 at 09:47 PM.





All the SIMs do is FOOL the F-45 Controller in thinking that the SHOCK is in place and functioning. You can go to RADIO SHACK and spend 10 bucks and purchase some 10 WATT resistors at the proper value and be 100% good to go. PERIOD!!!!
There should be Z E R O Reason to CUT any wires!
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 4, 2015 at 10:21 PM.
I could not agree more on the POS F45, mine was working correctly when I disabled it.It drove like the Love Boat rather than a Vette....lots of bow lift when on the throttle
as it would want to bury the bow when on the brakes 
I ran the simulators for years with no issue & "no" cutting of any wires. I did have an opportunity to have it Disabled with Tech II, still the simulators plugged in & all the linkages in place & connected.
Cannot imagine some purist wanting to enable it again.......then I cannot imagine ever parting ways with the car either.
HOWEVER, it would be good to delete F45 from the car in case you have the ESC/RTD module fail and then you are screwed to delete the RPO and would need to get a BCM that was not already set up for the F45.
We recently dealt with a guy who never had F45/F55 (don't remember which) who replaced his BCM and found out it had been set up for RTD. Problem.
Here is why you need to have a good module in order to delete the RPO.
If you find a Tech 2 this is the process:
1. Hook up Tech 2, turn ignition on, make sure module in the rear is plugged in. Do not unplug the rear module.
2. Use Tech 2 to delete the F45 option.
3. Save new configuration.
4. Do not turn ignition off, do not remove Tech 2. Go to the module in the rear of the car, unplug the grey connector (the widest one), leave any other plug(s) in.
5. Turn ignition off, leave Tech 2 plugged in.
6. Remove remaining plugs from module in the rear of car. [never plug them back in again, if you do the F45 turns on automatically]
7. Unhook the negative post of the battery and walk away for an hour
8. Turn car on to verify the "max speed 80 mph" is gone.
9. Unplug Tech 2.
Mr. Sam
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I need to find a resolution ASAP. I have access to a Tech II and the shocks are being changed out in the next 48 hours. Wanna do it right the first time! AND do not want to lose the race at 80 MPH :-)







