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Starting Motor after Rebuild Checklist

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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 11:49 AM
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Default Starting Motor after Rebuild Checklist

Hey Guys, the journey toward trying to start my motor again is just about here. I have a few more questions. Very much appreciated up front for taking the time to read my thread and help me out.

Power Steering Fluid

Was planning on filling up from reservoir. I will leave the wheels off and will turn the wheel lock to lock 10 times while the engine is not running. Then top off fluid and after starting car for first time turn wheel lock to lock 10-20 times and top off? I read of needing vacuum and others saying it's not needed, since my rack and ps cooler were removed does that warrant vacuum?

First Startup

I relocated the OPS using braided line. I'm planning on hooking up my mechanical oil gauge and pulling the fuel pump fuse and the two white coil pack plugs on each side of engine and cranking for 20 or 30 seconds to prime the oil system. Also hoping to see oil pressure on the mechanical gauge? Then after confirming I'm seeing oil pressure I will put the fuel pump fuse back along with the OPS and start the car. Then run for one minute, stop, top off coolant. Start again with heater running full blast till car reaches running temperature. While all this is going on I will be listening for odd noises along with looking for leaks.

Tune

I had to replace my cam with one very comparable. My previous cam was made by thunder racing but they went out of business, I replaced with a comp cam and am attaching both cam cards.
The other only variables I have changed that I could see impacting the tune are replacing rings, main and rod bearings. I also had a 3 angle valve job performed on my heads, they were already ported. Would you get re-tuned?
















Last edited by tommypenguin; Dec 17, 2015 at 11:11 AM.
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Old Dec 17, 2015 | 11:09 AM
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Bump, I removed content from the original post that I found answers to while searching. Can anyone chime in on the questions/assumptions I left?
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Old Dec 17, 2015 | 04:09 PM
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If it wasn't a FI engine I would say run it and see how it performs. BUT,,,,,,,, ITS FORCED INDUCTION and very sensitive to minor changes.

I would HATE to see you go lean and destroy the rings in #7 or #8 cyl.. Those cams are VERY CLOSE in specifications. See how it runs. Should run very well

Brother, Your that far into a rebuilt engine $$$$$$$$ spend the extra cash and re-tune it.

Your START UP PLAN sounds spot on!

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 17, 2015 at 04:20 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2015 | 04:13 PM
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Without the vacuum, it just takes a lot longer to get all the air out. I completely drained mine and just cycled and refilled until it was smooth and noise free.


BC
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