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I'm planning on removing my headers and possibly changing them out for larger diameter primaries. Considering header studs instead of bolts. Couldn't find much concerning feedback from people who have used them, so I figure a direct question might help.
Anyone used them and had regrets? Do they make the job of pulling and/or installing headers more or less difficult? Seems like clearance is pretty tight there, so does having the studs sticking out just complicate matters by reducing that clearance?
Don't really want to spend around $120 for these things and then just have to throw them out if they just don't work well. In theory they sound good, but.....
It is somewhat header dependent, but I found I couldn't install the studs then hand the header. I did find which ones I could put in and still hang the header and installed them using that procedure.
The studs use the ARP lube and so stud installation is quite easy using a finger ratchet and allen socket. It does allow you to hang the gasket first, which is a big help trying to install alone. If you install by hand, there is no risk to the threads in the head.
I would definitely use them again if I didn't have them. They remain tight and are easy to remove if you have to remove the headers.
I used studs in my install. I placed them in the front and back holes and it held the gaskets in place and helped hang the header in place, which made it an easier one man job.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
stock bolts have worked just fine for me or a set of stainless would be fine if you want them to look nice... what I do when installing the gaskets is use a small zip tie to hold the gasket to the header near the center bolts and once you get the outer bolts started just cut the zip tie off... another cool trick a friend showed me is to cut notches on the gasket where the end bolts go and once you get those 2 bolts started the gasket just lays down in place and then you install the rest of the bolts... the studs just get in my way more than anything else which I could deal with if they were really needed but they aren't
It is somewhat header dependent, but I found I couldn't install the studs then hand the header. I did find which ones I could put in and still hang the header and installed them using that procedure.
The studs use the ARP lube and so stud installation is quite easy using a finger ratchet and allen socket. It does allow you to hang the gasket first, which is a big help trying to install alone. If you install by hand, there is no risk to the threads in the head.
I would definitely use them again if I didn't have them. They remain tight and are easy to remove if you have to remove the headers.
I've got the LGM Pro long tube headers. These are the 1 3/4" primaries. But since installing them I've replaced the engine with a built 427, I'm thinking replacing them with 1 7/8" tubes might be a reasonable idea. The driver's side Pfadt motor mount has failed and I have a squeaky Centerforce clutch that is getting on my nerves, so I'm going to have to be going in there anyway. So I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row.
Oh, when the tech had to replace EVERYTHING between the engine block and the transmission because of Pfadt sending an oversized carbon fiber driveshaft, and this wound up destroying the clutch, torque tube, etc., he commented that the bolt holes for the headers looked a bit ragged, apparently because the previous shop wasn't as careful as they could have been. This is what is getting me thinking that studs might be a good idea, IF they won't cause more problems than they resolve.
I'm hoping that this will be the last time the headers will have to come out, but heck, you never know. Headers are nice to have, from a performance standpoint, but they do get in the way of some things that can break sooner or later.
Great thread- sorry I don't have anything to add (and hope I'm not hijacking)- but what brands header studs are you all using? I just bought ARP header studs- hoping to use with XSPower 1 3/4" headers...
I'm cheeep. Ifn I was to install a set of headers with no thought to removal, I'd go Neutron's route with zipties. But I anticipated having to have the headers removed soon for clutch (and drivetrain) work, and since I want the shop I choose to "cooperate" with me, I decided to spend the "$100". I like the 12-point edges for ease of use, and the general utility did make it much easier to muscle the headers in alone. The cheapest I found was here (shipping included):
stock bolts have worked just fine for me or a set of stainless would be fine if you want them to look nice... what I do when installing the gaskets is use a small zip tie to hold the gasket to the header near the center bolts and once you get the outer bolts started just cut the zip tie off... another cool trick a friend showed me is to cut notches on the gasket where the end bolts go and once you get those 2 bolts started the gasket just lays down in place and then you install the rest of the bolts... the studs just get in my way more than anything else which I could deal with if they were really needed but they aren't
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I've had my headers off for various reasons probably a half dozen times and never had problems reinstalling them or getting the bolts in properly... to me personally the studs just get in my way but I could see them working for some people, different strokes for different folks I guess