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If you have to take the bellhousing off, then you will need to loosen, but not remove the four front crossmember bolts. Then the engine will tilt a bit more to get it out and clear the intake on the firewall OK. ALSO DO NOT take an impact gun to the cross member bolts. They are hand tool remove only. They have an anti-rotation tab that rivets to the frame, and if you break the tab or the rivet in the rear you will have to cut your trunk tub to fix.
If you have to take the bellhousing off, then you will need to loosen, but not remove the four front crossmember bolts. Then the engine will tilt a bit more to get it out and clear the intake on the firewall OK. ALSO DO NOT take an impact gun to the cross member bolts. They are hand tool remove only. They have an anti-rotation tab that rivets to the frame, and if you break the tab or the rivet in the rear you will have to cut your trunk tub to fix.
Since I've got the FAST 102 on the engine, I'm already planning on removing the intake completely. It's taller than a stock intake, I believe, and everything I have read states that it does have to come off. Just as well, as I've got a vacuum line in the back of the intake that I want to remove and block off anyway. I changed the way that the wastegates monitor the turbos by going direct instead of referencing the pressure at the plenum and don't need that line any longer. Right now that line is blocked at the remote end, and I just don't want extra unused lines of any sort anywhere.
And yes, I did read that about not using an impact wrench on those nuts holding the cradles. Thanks. But I wasn't planning to anyway. I don't even use an impact wrench on the lug nuts. I find it strangely comforting to use hand tools, so I just remove all nuts and bolts manually. However, I may use a power tool for the tunnel plate bolts. I'd probably get carpal tunnel doing all of those manually.
I've got a torque spec sheet over in the garage somewhere, as I torque everything according to specs.