I'm in the process of putting together the parts and tools I may need for the time when I will be replacing my clutch assembly and some other odds and ends. Been looking through the service manual and there is mentioned a Kent Moore J-42055 transmission adapter. So I looked up pics of it, but for the life of me I can't really figure out what it would do above and beyond what a standard head on a transmission jack would do. Can someone tell me how useful this tool would be, and whether or not it makes the job substantially easier enough to be worth the added cost?

 

I did a clutch job on mine . Really didn't see any need for the tool you mentioned.

 

If you are just doing a clutch, then you will unbolt the torque tube at the clutch bellhousing and move the whole drivetrain down and to the rear. If you are doing it at ground level with the car on jackstands, then two trans jacks will be a big help to balance the whole drivetrain assembly. You can balance it on one, and use a floor jack. A few short pieces of wood to stabllize the drivetrain on the jacks is all you need.

Most replacement clutches will have a clutch-disc alignment tool, a cheap splined gizmo to center the clutch. Check with the vendor, but I now have four in my tool box, a souvenir from the 4 clutch jobs I did.

Be sure to read up on the hydraulic quick disconnect, some folks have trouble, but a shot of WD40 at the plastic disconnector is all that is needed. Other than that,get ready for sore muscles.

 

aside from standard hand tools I would recommend sourcing a cheap flywheel holding tool to help you torque the flywheel and pressure plate bolts... kent moore tools are very overpriced in my opinion and there are suitable replacements out there for far less money... I found a flywheel holder on ebay for like $30, it isn't the prettiest thing in the world but it's something I may only use a few times... it is made out of a piece of an old ring gear welded to a bracket that bolts up using the starter holes, worked perfect for me... I would also recommend sac city corvettes rear cover alignment tool, it's worth the small amount for peace of mind because I would kick myself in the *** if I had to remove the whole drivetrain again just for a leaking rear main... I would get an alignment tool made out of an old input shaft or use your torque tube to align the clutch and then torque the pressure plate bolts with the inspection cover off... the plastic alignment tools supplied in clutch kits suck... an atv jack also makes things easier if you are doing the job alone... you can lay a couple of boards across it and the cradle/suspension will be well supported... here is a pic of how mine looked the first time around when I did my clutch

 

Actually I have a 2 post full sized Bendpak lift in my garage, so I can do this standing up. Also have long tube headers that will need to come loose, and a FAST 102 intake that will have to be removed as well. The Pfadt engine mount on the driver's side has the urethane bushing failed so I'll be replacing both sides too.

Oh yeah, got rear mounting turbos, so there is some plumbing I will have to deal with on the rear cradle.

Already bought a clutch alignment tool from quartermaster.

As mentioned in another thread, I am considering header studs instead of using bolts.

I'm planning on having two transmission jacks. Got the first one just yesterday and will get another before starting the job.

Figure I will do the remote slave cylinder bleeder, and possibly an aftermarket clutch master cylinder as well.

I'm figuring on the car being up on the lift for a while, as I'm not going to be in any hurry while doing this.

So no one has been using the Kent Moore J-42055? I've had one shop tell me that he would not do a drivetrain pull without it, so it's got me curious about how well it works, and what it actually does to help.

Anyone here actually used it?

 

I've removed mine twice by myself on the ground with the atv jack pictured above, the kent moore tool looks like nothing more than a cradle to hold the trans stable and keep it from rocking side to side which should not be much of an issue if you pull the cradle with everything still intact... a couple of tie straps wouldn't hurt and I'm sure you probably already have some of those laying around the garage, save the $200+ in my opinion

 

Well, been staring at pics of my transmission trying to figure out how exactly the adapter attaches there. Not really sure, yet. But it does look to me that with the bottom of the tranny being kind of rounded, maybe some stability would be needed on that flat surface of the transmission jack adapters that are standard on those things. Truth be known, I'm rather overly cautious when it comes to my own safety. I'm 65 years old, and the bones and muscles ain't what they used to be. So I need the tools to do all the heavy stuff for me. Something heavy starts to fall, I'm not going to try to catch it or chance having a foot wind up underneath it. Except for maybe some minor help from my wife, I'm going to be doing this myself. So maybe some extra stability might be worth it to me.

 

Does your transmission jack have straps to go around the trans/axle. When I removed mine we did this and did not have a problem. I searched and found a used K-M flywheel lock for $35 when I had a spun balancer replaced. Check E-bay and other sites for a used one. Also you need Quick Disconnect tool for the clutch line from the reservoir (a pain to get to) or two small screw drivers.

 

if you leave the cradle attached to the diff, then you have a stable platform to lower the drivetrain. It is wise, though to strap the cradle to the jack. Once the rear wheels are off the ground, you can disconnect the upper suspension control arms and the other connections and the whole enchilada comes down.

Oh yea, here is one other handy tool to properly set your parking brake. Since you have to take all the brake stuff off in the rear, this will get you the proper adjustment:

 

I've got one transmission jack now -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forum...d.php?t=105400

Will likely get another one closer to the time I actually do the job. The one I got doesn't tilt the adapter head in multiple planes. Just tilts front to back. The other adjustment just slides the head from side to side, laterally.

Yeah, I'm making a list of all the specialty tools I think I will need. I've got a pretty good collection of standard tools already when I was working on the C5Z for a year trying to clean up the mess from two previous shops working (butchering) it.

Still teetering on the edge of buying one of those Kent Moore J-42055 adapters, though. When I do something, I like to do it RIGHT. Seen to much stuff done WRONG or half assed on my car, and I certainly don't want to follow in those footsteps. So yeah, I might be buying tools that I will only use once in my lifetime. Like that's never happened before......

 

I've pulled the drivetrain out of my C5s at least a dozen times. All on Jack stands. Never used that Kent tool. Just a cheap harbor freight transmission Jack.

You can spend your money however you'd like, but that tool is a serious waste of money.

Good luck with your project.

 

the trans jack you have will be very prone to tipping. Being that your pic shows a 2 post you will def need a second jack like that. Also, you are going to need a third something with adjustable vertical lift to hold the engine from tipping down and busting the firewall.

i have a homemade rig that was copied from the one they use at the assembly plant to drop a drivetrain/powertrain if there is major work on one after they go through final assembly. Here it is. Works for C5's and C6's and we have done several complete swaps with it.

If you are interested, I can send you the files, but the device does require some machining and welding.

 

Man, pretty cool looking device you made up...

I am planning on buying a second jack, this time with the head adapter being able to tilt in both forward and sideways directions. I already have two tall adjustable stands that will be used as well. You can see them in the background of at least one pic I took of the transmission jack alongside one post of the lift.

As for using the Kent Moore transmission adapter, I was finally able to find some pics of it being used by using a Google search on "Antivenom clutch install". So that helped a LOT in being able to figure out how to use the thing.

BTW, I am already planning on having to remove the FAST 102 intake. I think it is already so close to the firewall that it would definitely hit with even the slightest tilt of the engine backwards.

 

You might consider replacing the rear engine seal while you have everything out. If you do not have the seal alignment tool, it is less expensive to just go ahead and order the rear engine plate through GM as it comes with the seal installed. Good luck!

 

I have a rear main seal seating tool on order as we "speak". Just in case.

 

that's the tool I recommended in my first post... it's purpose is to center the rear cover around the crank so that the main seal won't be off center and cause a premature leak... if you buy the rear cover with the seal installed that tool will do you no good because the seal cannot be in the rear cover at the time you center and tighten down the rear cover... but once the cover is torqued the tool also doubles as a seal installer

 

I have the shop manuals and approached my neighbor and friend who is a GM tech locally about that tool mentioned. I asked about centering the plate and based on what he told me, I installed the plate with the seal in place. It has been over a year and I have no leaks.

 

Well, here's the thing, though. I'm not intending on removing the bell housing unless I really have to. I believe everything I am planning to do can be done with the bell housing still in place. And I'm not going to replace the rear main seal unless I see signs of it leaking. I had a built engine put into the car and I doubt it's got more than 7,000 miles on it, if even that. The pilot bearing (or maybe the tech put a bushing in it?) and throwout bearing/slave have maybe 5,000 miles on them but I will likely replace them both, regardless.

I'm hoping that once I do this the first time, it won't seem so intimidating to me. Right now I just don't know what I don't know. I'm hoping I won't put it all back together and then find out I did something wrong that will mean pulling it all out again. But once I have all the tools needed for this first timer, any subsequent drivetrain jobs will basically be free except for parts and my time. Since I am retired, I've got the time to spare.

So doing a clutch replacement might very well take me two weeks or longer to do. This isn't my only vehicle, so no big deal. Heck, this car was on my lift nearly an entire year when I got it back home and had to fix so many things that got screwed up.

With any luck, when I am done all this I will be thinking, "Well, that wasn't so bad..." At least I hope so.

 

you may or may not have to remove the bellhousing, just depends on the clutch... in my case I had to... I used an act twin disc and the flywheel had pressure plate mounting studs made into it rather than using bolts to install the pressure plate so it had to clear those studs before it could be installed, I had no choice but to remove the bellhousing

 

Thanks for the tip. I haven't selected which clutch I intend to buy yet, so this will be a point that I will want to keep in mind.