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All the time---Just try to locate the MAF as close to the stock position as possible---Moving it further away from the T-Body or closer to the T-Body will make the MAF read incorrectly and will require re-tuning IF the fuel trims are too far off
All the time---Just try to locate the MAF as close to the stock position as possible---Moving it further away from the T-Body or closer to the T-Body will make the MAF read incorrectly and will require re-tuning IF the fuel trims are too far off
I was thinking on getting an aluminum pipe and making a straight pipe to the throttle body, would that work? Is there any reason the stock and all the after market ones have the shape they do?
Is there any reason the stock and all the after market ones have the shape they do?
Yes. It is primarily for hood to radiator shroud clearance (somewhat ironic, considering there's a large C5 emblem molded into it). A completely round tube isn't likely going to clear all those parts.
For most power adder applications that do not worry about the cosmetics of the radiator shroud or have a higher rise hood, a more rounder shaped air bridge is utilized. You often see these on Procharger and turbo builds.
Yes. It is primarily for hood to radiator shroud clearance (somewhat ironic, considering there's a large C5 emblem molded into it). A completely round tube isn't likely going to clear all those parts.
For most power adder applications that do not worry about the cosmetics of the radiator shroud or have a higher rise hood, a more rounder shaped air bridge is utilized. You often see these on Procharger and turbo builds.
Any idea what the clearance is between the shroud and the hood?
I have found that aluminum air bridges tend to hold the heat on the airbridge a long time--So this affects your IAT temp sensor as it is placed either separately in the airbridge or in combination with the MAF sensor--but both in the bridge--Keeping that heat soak on the IAT sensor will make your ECM remove tons of timing from your base timing table--Not uncommon to see IAT temps in the high 130's when the sensor is placed in aluminum-------I always prefer to use a plastic air bridge---As my experience has been that even a black plastic bridge will dissipate the heat soak much quicker---
Any idea what the clearance is between the shroud and the hood?
Probably the thickness of the factory air bridge?
Seriously; there's a reason GM made it that way. I'd guess the clearance is the factory bridge plus the hood insulation and maybe 1/2"?
There are tricks to measure in weird places...
Edit; plastic is a better material for this application.
Probably the thickness of the factory air bridge?
Seriously; there's a reason GM made it that way. I'd guess the clearance is the factory bridge plus the hood insulation and maybe 1/2"?
There are tricks to measure in weird places...
Edit; plastic is a better material for this application.
Yeah, I figure plastic will probably end up being cheaper than the aluminum anyway. I'll probably give it a go and see how it turns out.
Probably the thickness of the factory air bridge?
Seriously; there's a reason GM made it that way. I'd guess the clearance is the factory bridge plus the hood insulation and maybe 1/2"?
There are tricks to measure in weird places...
Edit; plastic is a better material for this application.
Well, the company I work for engineers the radios and rear seat entertainment for GM as well as many other automotive companies and from my experience GM engineers are not the sharpest knife in the tool box.
I put a bigger plastic aftermarket bridge on mine and it rubs the hood liner. Not bad, but you can see that it does. Stock it about the only thing that's going to fit with no contact.
Well, the company I work for engineers the radios and rear seat entertainment for GM as well as many other automotive companies and from my experience GM engineers are not the sharpest knife in the tool box.
Maybe so for some, but I highly doubt they wouldn't use an easy to make round tube if there were room.