I bought TSP headers and the fitment seems to be ok..... except for the O2 sensor position and that it looks like it hangs a little lower than my rocker panels savers.

One of the O2 sensors required cutting into the tunnel shield... Ok.

The other on is positioned in a way that it is directly butting up against the other collector.

Anybody know of a slightly shorter body O2 sensor that will work on this car? If it even exists...

 

I dont have an answer to your question but personally I wouldnt even run those. Theyd go straight back into the box and back to TSP.

 

Wow... my sensors were lined up nice, no cutting required. I had other issues though (warped flanges, collectors; one lower pointing up, other higher and straight).
They obviously have QC issues. Are yours new?

 

LT headers most often require some fabrication to make them fit---as you would always try and place them above the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock postions---so they won't fill up with moisture after shut down and eventually foul them
2nd----LT headers create a whole other set of issues----Moving the 02 sensors as much as 3' aft will cause the front 02's to read incorrectly---There is NO 100% fix for this --that's why they are illegal in most states----The further aft 02 bungs will make your P/T fuel run very rich which will also be transferred to your WOT fuel via your positive fuel trims--Tuning is a MUST--but even then it will never have or be close to the stock stoich AFR of 14.68

 

They are new!

I need 3/8 of an inch.. Are there any with shorter bodies?

 

Unsure, sorry. Check with the likes of Summit I'd say.
I'd also grind out a slightly larger hole around that other unit, engine's rock.
Does one of your collectors hang lower and point up, the other fairly snug up and straight?
They have a lot of inconsistencies from unit to unit it seems.

 

Unless you opt for a different set of TSP headers, theres not much you can do. The NEXT set, may be the same or WORSE! I muled a set of headers for testing once and had a similar issue.
You can insert a metal rod (ROUND PRY BAR) in the bung hole, HEAT the area around the bung with a propane torch and slightly bend the bung angle to alter the angle of the O2 sensor. That usually works.

Let us know what you do to resolve the issue. Running the sensor like that, it will NOT survive!

 

I know I might get banished for not agreeing with BC ... but I kinda disagree. Using a metal bar might ruin the threads and/or deform the concentricity of the collector. If you know of people who have done this with as much interference as he has, OK.
Personally if everything else fits OK and he can't find shorter sensors, I'd just finish the install and take the car (O2 sensors out and either pipe plugs in place or just drive with them open for one trip) into a good exhaust shop after. Have them cut out and re-weld in the bungs in better locations (ensuring both are pointing up about halfway between where they are now).
Agreed though, another set of headers might be worse.

 

No BANISH or WHIPPING necessary... That's a good point. I have done it this way and the threads were fine. I also have enough experience to understand HOW MUCH force to use and when to say enough.

I got it hot enough that it didn't take a lot of force to TWEEK the fitting what was necessary to fix the clearance issue.

 

Phew.
Another maybe in between option. Get 2 pipe nipples (one about 2" long, the other say a foot) and an elbow. Thread in the short nipple in the collector finger tight and maybe a quarter turn. Then thread on the elbow, then the long lever nipple. How far you thread these is inconsequential. Now heat and see what you can do.

 

those look like sh*t to me... no way would I be cutting into my tunnel plate for that, it should have been right from the beginning... personally I would send them back but if you are dead set on keeping them I think the best option would be to mark the best spot for the o2 sensors to be placed, take them back off, have new bungs welded in place, and plug the old bungs up

 

A little bit of pulling and use of a jack got me 1/8" clearance...

Did a 799 head/ 224r cam swap this past week when I put these in.. Im tired and dont feel like pulling the headers right now.

I bought this issue up with tsp. they told me to plug it and reweld a new bung.....

On the positive side... their tune and cam seem pretty good, although I havent driven it yet...

Ill try the torch and pipe method later.. I am worried about making the collector out of round and having problems with the slip joint. If I localize the heat to right around the bung do you think this is something I need to worry about?

 

Yes, IMO.
I'd do what I said earlier = no risk. Take it to an exhaust shop with those bungs open or with pipe plugs to get you there.
There should be no welding required on any headers! I had to mill my flanges, another step nobody should have to take.
1/8" is not enough for engine movement I'd think... if you're referring to the hole in the tunnel plate or clearance to other collector.

 

cheap headers = quality problems

 

I am considering the TSP headers but after seeing this I might reconsider. I realize that cheaper headers very well may come with fitment issues but this is ridiculous. I would have sent those back!

 

I'd like ANYBODIES opinion on something... I am getting the P1153 sensor 1 bank 2 passenger side forward 02 sensor. I have a 2002 Corvette with 82 K miles and I installed long tubes and am running with 4 cats installed and yes all 4 02s are in their proper location. I sent the headers to Jet Hot and had them ceramic coated inside and out before installing them because I was aware that the 02s that far away from the head would NOT allow them to reach 1200 degrees. And ceramic coating inside and out keeps the heat inside the header tubes. I can touch the headers after only about 3 minuets after shutting the engine off at the collector and at the factory 02 area.

I have ZERO exhaust leaks. I cleaned all Chassis GROUND locations and even installed 2 additional aftermarket strap grounds for good measure. And I used zero anti seize on the threads. I also switched all 4 02s with band new ones TWICE! And the P1153 keeps turning on after 2 or 3 days. So this time I switched the forward passenger 02 with the forward driver 02 and I did NOT even bother cleaning it just installed them and 3 days later I get P1153 AGAIN! So I know for a FACT it is NOT the 02s. The ONLY thing I can think of is the fact that they are place way too far south of the head and are simply NOT getting HOT enough!


Once it starts it runs perfect, once it is at running temp I can shut it off and it restarts perfect. I replaced the plugs because they were black from being too rich and it started perfect in the AM for about 1 day (autolite double platinums) I pulled a couple of them and they look like they just came out of the box clean as new after about 225 miles on them. I used a laser thermometer and cold tested the temperature/on bord heaters on the upstream o2s I got 155 on the left bank and only 150 on the right bank and about 44 on the two down stream sensors do you know what the internal heater temp should reach on their own? Also I am aware that on the long tube header the upstream 02s are much further down streamI had to extend the wires about 18 inches with solder and heat shrink.

So my other question is do ANY OF YOU have any knowledge on relocating the 02s by welding up a bung in the #7 and #8 primary tube further up closer to the head (factory location on the old cast manifolds ) So I don't have to use wire extensions and so I can avoid spending a bunch of money on the other option (tuning) and STILL have the 02s too far down stream with the code simply shut off?

I also realize that if I do the relocation I will NOT be getting the average reading from all 4 cylinder off each head but only a reading off the single #7 and #8 primary tubes. What would that hurt? How big is the possibility of burning a hole on my pistons from an undetected lean condition from not sampling from all 4 cylinders per side only the two #7 and #8?