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Front Bilstein shock replacement

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Old Jan 10, 2016 | 11:37 AM
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Default Front Bilstein shock replacement

Sorry if this is lengthy. Bilstein shocks have a hex hole in the stem for holding the shock ram from turning while tightening the upper mount nut. There is an access hole beneath the washer tank and also the coolant tank. All is good for keeping the ram from rotating while tightening the nut. BUT! There isn't enough clearance, within the wheel well area, to torque down the nut, even w/ a crow's foot. Any ideas? Thanks!
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 03:08 PM
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Default Removing Bilstein shocks

Originally Posted by jakecol
Sorry if this is lengthy. Bilstein shocks have a hex hole in the stem for holding the shock ram from turning while tightening the upper mount nut. There is an access hole beneath the washer tank and also the coolant tank. All is good for keeping the ram from rotating while tightening the nut. BUT! There isn't enough clearance, within the wheel well area, to torque down the nut, even w/ a crow's foot. Any ideas? Thanks!
I filed down the short end of an Allen wrench.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 06:13 PM
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Default "Thanks"

Originally Posted by NSBC5
I filed down the short end of an Allen wrench.
I've already thought of that as I have done that in my past profession. However I still cannot access the nut even with a crow's foot extension. With that said I really do appreciate your reply.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 06:20 PM
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Default P.s.

Originally Posted by jakecol
I've already thought of that as I have done that in my past profession. However I still cannot access the nut even with a crow's foot extension. With that said I really do appreciate your reply.
Maybe I'm being too fussy but Bilstein suggest 19 ft.lbs. After using the math, with a standard crow's foot extension, the proper setting is 17.5 ft.lbs. Again, Thanks.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 07:33 PM
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Two ideas: 1. Have you tried installing the shock to the lower control arm as well, then lowering the control arm to put tension on the shock? 2. Needle nose pliers using a piece of split fuel line as padding to prevent marring the strut in any way whatsoever. Damaging the strut surface will lead to leaks so be careful with this approach.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 09:09 PM
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Default Bilstein top nut torque access.

Originally Posted by NSBC5
Two ideas: 1. Have you tried installing the shock to the lower control arm as well, then lowering the control arm to put tension on the shock? 2. Needle nose pliers using a piece of split fuel line as padding to prevent marring the strut in any way whatsoever. Damaging the strut surface will lead to leaks so be careful with this approach.
Again "Thanks " for your input. The situation of my initial post was the proper torque accessibility of the upper nut after the total installation of the shock.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 09:19 PM
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It's 3 nuts to remove and pull the tanks out of the way. Then you can place a torque wrench on them to check it is tight enough.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 09:42 PM
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Default With all due respects.

Originally Posted by Evilash
It's 3 nuts to remove and pull the tanks out of the way. Then you can place a torque wrench on them to check it is tight enough.
Your suggestion might be valid for another type of front C5 shock assembly but it is impossible to use a conventional socket in order to properly torque a Bilstein shock when the stem of the shaft is a hex hole in the end of the rod/ram. To accomplish your method would require a torque wrench with a thru hole within the head of the torque wrench. With over 40 yrs. of being an automotive mechanic,body repair mechanic and an industrial mechanic, I have yet to see such a torque wrench. As for the 3 nut's you've suggested, there are only 3 on the coolant tank.
the washer tank has only 2. If this and a previous post is a test of my mechanical savy. I believe that you and others underestimate my mechanical savy. Again the title says "With all due respects".
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