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A little background on the car first. 2003 Z06 27k miles on the clock. H/C/I car with a Tick stage 2 trans. Monster Stage 3 clutch.
I was driving back from St. Louis to my base in North Dakota when all the sudden i started hearing a loud rattling/whining sound coming from what sounded like just under the shifter area. It would get louder with RPM. Weather I was in gear or in neutral. However the noise would stop when the clutch was depressed. I get a few hundred miles with the car acting up like this. Im babying it keeping her in 6th and low rpm. Just trying to limp her back to base to figure out whats going on and then BOOM. Super loud grinding sound and it sounded like someone shot a cannon fill with gravel under the car. Pulled over and looked under the car fearing the worst and there is nothing leaking, no parts on the road. Nothing visibly wrong with the car.
Called a tow truck and got towed 600miles back to base. As the car sits right now it will start fine. Let the clutch out in neutral and it dies. With the car on and the clutch depressed you cannot put it in ANY gear. With the car off you can put it in gear.
Ive been reading for weeks trying to figure it out. (Im deployed at the moment so i cannot take it to get looked at.) Anyone have any ideas? Pilot bearing? Input shaft bearing? Clutch? Anything would be a help at this point. Im not very knowledgeable with drivetrain mechanics.
Thanks in advance for any and all advice/ suggestions
-Jordan.
Hard to respond, but I had a set of similar symptoms many years ago in a completely different vehicle, caused by the pilot bearing (needle roller in that case) in the back of the crank disintegrating, and the needles getting in the clutch mechanism. The clutch pedal would go down, but the clutch was still engaged, as it was getting jammed.
Bad feeling the clutch/driveline will have to come out to be inspected. Another possibility is that the driveshaft ate its bearings. How long ago was it all apart for the clutch and trans work?
Last edited by jackthelad; Jan 26, 2016 at 10:55 AM.
Hard to respond, but I had a set of similar symptoms many years ago in a completely different vehicle, caused by the pilot bearing (needle roller in that case) in the back of the crank disintegrating, and the needles getting in the clutch mechanism. The clutch pedal would go down, but the clutch was still engaged, as it was getting jammed.
Bad feeling the clutch/driveline will have to come out to be inspected.
I have a feeling it has something to do with the pilot bearing or clutch. But again Im not too knowledgeable with these kinds of issues. Thanks for your input. Much appreciated.
You have a drive train issue associated with the clutch and most likely the TORQUE TUBE. Best thing you can do is BREAK IT DOWN and inspect all the components.
IMHO, you blew a front torque tube rubber coupler. When the trans is out of gear, and clutch released, the propeller shaft should spin. It sounds like its locked up. Clutch depressed, it doesn't spin.
Are you willing and able to do the work? Do you have access to the Base Hobby Shop?
You have a drive train issue associated with the clutch and most likely the TORQUE TUBE. Best thing you can do is BREAK IT DOWN and inspect all the components.
IMHO, you blew a front torque tube rubber coupler. When the trans is out of gear, and clutch released, the propeller shaft should spin. It sounds like its locked up. Clutch depressed, it doesn't spin.
Are you willing and able to do the work? Do you have access to the Base Hobby Shop?
Rubber couplers:
I do have access to the base hobby shop. However my car sits too low for any of the lifts. Im also super uncomfortable taking the drivetrain apart as I have ZERO experience with anything drivetrain related.I would certainly prefer to have a shop to do it or someone who is experienced with this sort of thing. I am also terrified this is going to cost me a fortune.
I do have access to the base hobby shop. However my car sits too low for any of the lifts. I'm also super uncomfortable taking the drivetrain apart as I have ZERO experience with anything drivetrain related.I would certainly prefer to have a shop to do it or someone who is experienced with this sort of thing. I am also terrified this is going to cost me a fortune.
WELL... My car is a little bit lowered and they have planking at the base hobby shop that allows lowered cars to drive onto the lift. As for the two post lifts.. I've had to use a floor jack to raise the car to allow the arms to fit under the car.
As for being "uncomfortable" with the drive train... I'm sure that you can someone in the area that can provide you assistance.
Im a good mechanic and I was very apprehensive about doing mine. The first time took a while and once it was all out, and I had a good grasp on how the system was assembled, I had a better feeling on making all the modifications and repairs.
I can do it in a 1/3 of the time now..
QUOTE" "I am also terrified this is going to cost me a fortune."
If you have a shop accomplish the repair,, the cost will start at $800 - $1000 +++ That's LABOR
I hope that you get it sorted out for the least cash possible!
Potential catastrophic Failure
