Control Arm Bushings
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,300
Likes: 115
From: Odessa FL
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Control Arm Bushings
Are rubber control arm bushings no longer available for the C5 either OEM or aftermarket? Is the choice now poly, delrin, or solid only?
Thanks for any information.
Thanks for any information.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,990
Likes: 346
From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,300
Likes: 115
From: Odessa FL
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,003
Likes: 89
From: Indy IN
If this is for street use, buy a new set of arms and be done with it.
If it is for track use or heavy duty use like autocross, buy a new set of arms and then "flip" the rear bushing over on the upper arm. The problem is that the upper arms bend and walk off of the bushings. If you flip the rear bushing that distributes the load between the arms and they never bend.
The bushings are easy to get out and if the arm is new and haven't distorted, the flipped rear bushing will prevent the arm from bending. First measure the distance between the bolt holes between the rear fwd hole and the front aft hole. Then put the rear mount ear in a vise and twist the arm off of the bushing. It takes about 3 seconds. Then flip the bushing over and press the bushing in from the inside side of the arm and make sure the distance between the bolt holes are correct and you are done.
Replacement bushings are going to be more harsh and make noise (squeak or groan) and the rubber bushings work fine if you flip the rear one over.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,300
Likes: 115
From: Odessa FL
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
The bushings have never been available separately. you always have had to buy the complete control arms to get new bushings.
If this is for street use, buy a new set of arms and be done with it.
If it is for track use or heavy duty use like autocross, buy a new set of arms and then "flip" the rear bushing over on the upper arm. The problem is that the upper arms bend and walk off of the bushings. If you flip the rear bushing that distributes the load between the arms and they never bend.
The bushings are easy to get out and if the arm is new and haven't distorted, the flipped rear bushing will prevent the arm from bending. First measure the distance between the bolt holes between the rear fwd hole and the front aft hole. Then put the rear mount ear in a vise and twist the arm off of the bushing. It takes about 3 seconds. Then flip the bushing over and press the bushing in from the inside side of the arm and make sure the distance between the bolt holes are correct and you are done.
Replacement bushings are going to be more harsh and make noise (squeak or groan) and the rubber bushings work fine if you flip the rear one over.
If this is for street use, buy a new set of arms and be done with it.
If it is for track use or heavy duty use like autocross, buy a new set of arms and then "flip" the rear bushing over on the upper arm. The problem is that the upper arms bend and walk off of the bushings. If you flip the rear bushing that distributes the load between the arms and they never bend.
The bushings are easy to get out and if the arm is new and haven't distorted, the flipped rear bushing will prevent the arm from bending. First measure the distance between the bolt holes between the rear fwd hole and the front aft hole. Then put the rear mount ear in a vise and twist the arm off of the bushing. It takes about 3 seconds. Then flip the bushing over and press the bushing in from the inside side of the arm and make sure the distance between the bolt holes are correct and you are done.
Replacement bushings are going to be more harsh and make noise (squeak or groan) and the rubber bushings work fine if you flip the rear one over.