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How can I wire my aftermarket radio to stay on even during engine cranking?
I spent the last 30 minutes searching but couldn't find anything on this. I installed an Appradio3 head unit tonight which runs off my phone, it takes a good part of a minute for everything to get going and starting the engine resets the radio and I have to wait for it to go though everything again.
I assume I just need to find a 12v switch wire somewhere that doesn't go dead during cranking, the yellow wire below the steering column is what I am using now (2004 Z).
You will need to by-pass the standard harness for this and I doubt the speakers themselves will work, unless you take them out of the standard wiring harness and wire them directly to the head unit.
I would snag a true ignition wire under the dash and bring that over and use two diodes to trigger the radio turn on. One off accessory one off ignition but you need to diode isolate both of them
Really? You can't wait sixty seconds to listen to the radio?
I would think you'd want to leave the radio off so you can listen and make sure the engine is firing properly with no valve noise, belt squeal, etc. . .
If the radio red and yellow power wires are both connected to the battery +, the radio should stay on all the time so you can try it out while starting the car.
Haven't used mine in well over a year now. It's my sanity zone after long days of teaching school! Just the pure sound of the LS-1, and that will be even better if I ever manage to get the exhaust I would love to have!!
Haven't used mine in well over a year now. It's my sanity zone after long days of teaching school! Just the pure sound of the LS-1, and that will be even better if I ever manage to get the exhaust I would love to have!!
DSTURBD
It's my sanity zone (code name) DSTURBD RIGHT !!!!!!!!
Haha, I love how most of you are like me and don't even use the radio most of the time
Since using the Appradio3 means it is running my cell phone on it there are some downsides with how things all get going and having the radio cut power mid process really screws things up and turns it into a nightmare.
Really either keeping the radio on but let the speakers cut out during start up or just don't even let the radio turn on until the car is running would keep the process easy and mostly automated using an app called Tasker.
I just got home and will be going down to see about finding a wire to use off the ignition switch.
Thanks for the info so far guys - will let you know what happens and post the solution for others.
I would have to dig out the diagrams but there are true ignition wires at ignition wires at ignition switch you could use but then radio won't come on in accessory which is why I recommend y-ing them together through diodes
Haven't used mine in well over a year now. It's my sanity zone after long days of teaching school! Just the pure sound of the LS-1, and that will be even better if I ever manage to get the exhaust I would love to have!!
DSTURBD
Best sound system is the one that has the speakers under my tail lights. Sound by LS1 brought to you by BORLA.
Best sound system is the one that has the speakers under my tail lights. Sound by LS1 brought to you by BORLA.
You are absolutely right!!!!! Constantly looking for an amazing deal (it will have to be as I am a school teacher, in other words dirt poor) on Borla, B&B's (hopefully Speedway tips), or GHL's. Had Corsa Pace cars on my previous C5 but was very disappointed by the lack of volume to the sound (especially at $1500 for exhaust and X-pipe and that was over ten years ago at Purifoy Chevrolet!!!). Great sound, just waaaaayyy too quiet!! A Corvette should sound like a Corvette!!!!! C3 big block side-pipes are the perfect bar for comparison.
I would snag a true ignition wire under the dash and bring that over and use two diodes to trigger the radio turn on. One off accessory one off ignition but you need to diode isolate both of them
This seems to be the path to achieve keeping the radio running during engine starting.
I tested all the ignition switch wires several times and not one has power in ACC, ON, and CRANKING so the diode approach is the way... I am still trying to determine what rating diode is needed for the task since the ignition switch wires that have power during engine starting (red & pink) are around 8-10 gauge. I am guessing the cheap 1amp diode isn't going to cut it but I am having trouble determining what rating is sufficient.
There are two ignition circuits on the ignition switch, one is ignition run that goes off for starting and the other is ignition start that stays on for starting. The large Pink wire is ignition start. On page 17 the sequence is explained: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...repair-17.html. When the starter is engaged, the system voltage can drop to below 7 volts, that's why I suggested to connect both head unit power wires to the battery + so you can start the car and see if the process works or if it drops out from too low a voltage. If it does drop out, a small DC to DC converter can be used to maintain 12 volts.
Last edited by Fast one; Feb 17, 2016 at 07:53 AM.
There are two ignition circuits on the ignition switch, one is ignition run that goes off for starting and the other is ignition start that stays on for starting. The large Pink wire is ignition start. On page 17 the sequence is explained: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...repair-17.html. When the starter is engaged, the system voltage can drop to below 7 volts, that's why I suggested to connect both head unit power wires to the battery + so you can start the car and see if the process works or if it drops out from too low a voltage. If it does drop out, a small DC to DC converter can be used to maintain 12 volts.
After testing several wires with power while engine is cranking all dip below 12v and the radio turns off.
Looks like a capacitor and relay setup or try a DC to DC converter like you recommend - I'm not sure exactly what DC to DC converter to try using?