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"System Charge Fault" & electrical issues.

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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 06:47 AM
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Default "System Charge Fault" & electrical issues.

Recently I purchased and installed a new alternator in my '03. I followed the manual's install instructions exactly. Everything was fine for the first few days, then i got the "System Charge Fault" message on the DIC. After that happened I re-installed my old alternator, and the message still came up! I had never seen this message before. This made me think the new alternator isn't the issue. However, now the issue is even worse. My CD player & 12-disc do not work at any time. None of my interior lights work when the car in on; When I turn on my headlights, ALL interior lights turn off, the only thing that stays on is the HUD. But I know the LEDs are good, because when I first place the key in the ignition and after I turn the car off, they all light up. I'm not very good at explaining issues, so ill attach a video of the issues. If anyone has any ideas on what is wrong please help!

Here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EMI...ature=youtu.be

Last edited by Bio; Feb 16, 2016 at 06:56 AM.
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 11:12 AM
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The c5 is very sensitive when it comes down to the alternator. Just no any alternator will do. Check connection, check voltage with car off and on. The car may not like your new alternator. Where the alternator come from?
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 11:18 AM
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Pull your DIC trouble codes from the dash and record them for us. Take your battery out and have it load tested at an auto store.

Let us know what happens. We'll go from there.


Mr. Sam


PS: Hey Toney

Last edited by dadaroo; Feb 16, 2016 at 11:18 AM.
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by fasttoney
The c5 is very sensitive when it comes down to the alternator. Just no any alternator will do. Check connection, check voltage with car off and on. The car may not like your new alternator. Where the alternator come from?
I checked the connections. They are good I believe. I cleaned the bracket the alternator mounts on too. Battery voltage while driving hovers around 11. Edit: Got up to 14 after a short drive just no.

The alternator I got was this exact one, sold by a Chevy dealer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-03-04-C5-...zVA93w&vxp=mtr

Originally Posted by dadaroo
Pull your DIC trouble codes from the dash and record them for us. Take your battery out and have it load tested at an auto store.

Let us know what happens. We'll go from there.


Mr. Sam


PS: Hey Toney
I'll pull the codes in a few, when I get home. I'll go to autozone too. The battery volts while driving were 11ish.

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7



OP,

Why did you replace the alternator? Problems? If so can you provide some additional info about the problems...

Any mods to the car such as headers?????
I replaced it because of a very loud whining noise that is was making, I researched the subject a bit and it sounds like the bearings were the issue, and some people said that you can take it to a shop to be fixed; However, I like to be preventative, so I just replaced it.

Only modifications are the Corsa Extreme catback with the x-pipe.

Last edited by Bio; Feb 16, 2016 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 03:42 PM
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Codes are P1637 & P1638.

"P1637 Generator L ‐ Terminal Circuit"
"P1638 Generator F -Terminal Circuit"
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 06:11 AM
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That is not the correct alternator for your car. 11.0 volts is way past dead for a battery.


Mr. Sam
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
That is not the correct alternator for your car. 11.0 volts is way past dead for a battery.


Mr. Sam
What makes the alternator not right? Alright, I'll look into replacing the battery.
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 08:03 AM
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The alternator should be a 145 amp one. That does not explain your issues though.


Mr. Sam
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
The alternator should be a 145 amp one. That does not explain your issues though.


Mr. Sam
Mr. Sam,

How are you?
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Bio
I checked the connections. They are good I believe. I cleaned the bracket the alternator mounts on too. Battery voltage while driving hovers around 11. Edit: Got up to 14 after a short drive just no.

The alternator I got was this exact one, sold by a Chevy dealer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-03-04-C5-...zVA93w&vxp=mtr



I'll pull the codes in a few, when I get home. I'll go to autozone too. The battery volts while driving were 11ish.



I replaced it because of a very loud whining noise that is was making, I researched the subject a bit and it sounds like the bearings were the issue, and some people said that you can take it to a shop to be fixed; However, I like to be preventative, so I just replaced it.

Only modifications are the Corsa Extreme catback with the x-pipe.
I think something us wrong with the alternator.
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
The alternator should be a 145 amp one. That does not explain your issues though.


Mr. Sam
Ok. Do you think the battery could be the issue? It was around 11, then jumped to 14 volts.
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by fasttoney
I think something us wrong with the alternator.
I'm not sure if it is, because when i put my OLD alternator back in the car, it still had the same issue. Even though this never happened with the old alternator.

Last edited by Bio; Feb 17, 2016 at 08:31 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Bio
Ok. Do you think the battery could be the issue? It was around 11, then jumped to 14 volts.
Refer to what I requested in Post 3.


Mr. Sam
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 11:35 PM
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Take the big nut and heavy wires off the solenoid, clean everything as good as you can using sandpaper or a wire brush and then put it back together.

Your ignition switch might have issues too, but try the easy fixes first.

Last edited by lionelhutz; Feb 18, 2016 at 11:35 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2016 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Bio
I'm not sure if it is, because when i put my OLD alternator back in the car, it still had the same issue. Even though this never happened with the old alternator.
Another vote for post #3. Load test the battery.
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Old Feb 19, 2016 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Bio
...Battery voltage while driving hovers around 11. Edit: Got up to 14 after a short drive just no...
It seems your are reading voltage from DIC. Using a multimeter, measure directly at battery and directly at alternator. Readings should be the same or very similar (and definitely not 11v).

As mentioned above, you could have bad contacts at the solenoid and/or problems with the ignition switch.

Last edited by GCG; Feb 19, 2016 at 09:58 AM.
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Old Feb 19, 2016 | 02:06 PM
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To the LEFT of the steering wheel is a little round black button. PUSH it and it will POP OUT. Turn it to the RIGHT (CW) and see if you get the light back when the KEY IS ON. Its the LIGHT DIMMER!

NOTE! If you turn it all the way (CW) to the CLICK,, you will LOCK on the interior lights and kill the battery over time (like 3-4 HRS) SO,, just turn it CW and not to the CLICK.

Give that a try. I hope its as simple as that..

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Feb 19, 2016 at 02:07 PM.
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