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Drivers blend actuator removal

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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 02:12 PM
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Default Drivers blend actuator removal

Hey guys, drivers door actuator called it quits. Tried the resetting procedure with pulling fuses but no luck. I have a replacement actuator to swap out.
If I pull the driver's side kick panel, will that be enough to expose the area I need? I realize I'll have to pull center console as well (frankly, using it as an excuse for an MGW shifter install).
I can find multiple threads for steps on replacement for passenger side, but the driver's side links are down. Any help, pictures, etc would be fantastic. I really appreciate it.

-Kasey
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 06:17 PM
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You need to pull the black panel above the pedals. This will expose the Bose unit. Take that out. The actuator is visible now.

Be aware all the bolts to do this are 7mm except the ones on the actuator. They are some small fraction of an inch, not metric.

Good luck.
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 10:21 PM
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The bolts holding the actuators in place are 7/32.

The 2 sets I have replaced both actuators were done. Codes and the noises they made pointed to both being bad. Pulled the dash out completely to do the replacement. The passenger on is in a real awkward position. A long extension made it doable.

Gary
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by johnson-rod
You need to pull the black panel above the pedals. This will expose the Bose unit. Take that out. The actuator is visible now.

Be aware all the bolts to do this are 7mm except the ones on the actuator. They are some small fraction of an inch, not metric.

Good luck.
Beautiful, thank you guys. I took a look down there today, removing just that thinner plastic panel shouldn't be too bad. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't getting in over my head here.

Luckily I'm not having to deal with the passenger side. Ironic though, my girlfriend is always cold and I'm always hot. Driver's side is stuck on full hot. Go figure

I think I may post pictures for the driver's side when I go through it this week. I know I can't be the only one in this boat.
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by johnson-rod
You need to pull the black panel above the pedals. This will expose the Bose unit. Take that out. The actuator is visible now.

Be aware all the bolts to do this are 7mm except the ones on the actuator. They are some small fraction of an inch, not metric.

Good luck.
I'm guessing the black panel you're referencing requires center console removal as well?
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Old Mar 6, 2016 | 03:47 PM
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If you remove the drivers seat,, you can lay in the floor on your back and feet over the rear hump and get a very good working position.. MUCH easier!

Bill
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Kasey0104
I'm guessing the black panel you're referencing requires center console removal as well?
No. I don't remember having to remove the center console to get at the drivers side actuator only. The black panel is the one over the pedals. It has the outlet for the heater molded into it.

Do yourself a flavor and take Bill's advice about the driver's seat. You might even find enough change to pay for the actuator.
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 12:28 PM
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Well I got to the actuator and removed it. Blend door moves relatively freely, drivers AC blows cold if manually moved to the cold position. Plugged in the new actuator. Two issues now:

1. The position of the new actuator "socket" for the blend door is not in any sort of orientation to allow the actuator to be installed and still fit the "keying" of the blend door post.
2. Upon pulling fuse 27, waiting several minutes, then reinstalling, I can hear the passenger side cycle, but not the driver's side. Mind you the driver's side is only plugged in and hanging, not installed onto the unit.


Anyone have suggestions here?
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 12:55 PM
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Here is a schematic for a 99 actuator It should be the same Do some meter readings:


Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 12, 2016 at 12:57 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 06:07 PM
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UPDATE: I HAVE AC CONTROL AGAIN

I got frustrated after putting the new actuator in and it not responding whatsoever. I figured I'd see if the old one was cracked. Took the original apart, looked through the gears, everything looked fine. I reassemble and say to hell with it. Plug in the original unit, BOOM IT WORKS.

Reassembled the dash and console (installed the MGW shifter I just got, it's fantastic) and all is good here. Not sure if I knocked something loose or what, but to reiterate I took the original unit out, tried the new one which didn't work, tried the old one, and I'm back to 100% now. Thanks for the help guys!
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