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Serious question (which I can't find a picture to confirm) regarding how the mirror connections in the doors are connected:
Are the connectors black to black or black to white? I would have thought that the connectors are the same color on both sides but my car had been put back together the the connectors black to white after painting. I found one picture of a 97 that seems to show black to black and white to white. If the painter put things back together wrong that would explain a bunch of stuff. However, about everything worked fine for a while after painting. Confused even more now.
Switching the connectors around (black to black and white to white) got me my radio back so I'm guessing thats the way it should be. What a nightmare.
Since nothing else has changed as far as driver's side door controls (same DIC errors and lack of functionality) I'm also guessing I may have two bad LDCM's. Before I buy another I'm going to check the door connectors one more time just to be sure.
Comments and suggestions welcome.
Bill, Sam, Jim, Robert?
Last edited by CaseyJones; Mar 7, 2016 at 03:05 PM.
Does the place you purchased the other module have a way to test them. Maybe a car that they are parting out or ???. Before you change the module take your wiring diagram and volt meter and check the pins on connector to see what ones have voltage. Then check the function of the switches. But I bet the crossed mirror plug was your problem.
I 'm pretty sure that started it all. Now I have problems elsewhere. I bought the module from a supporting vendor here (Vettenuts) so I'll check with him tomorrow.
Update from this morning:
I figured out, from seeing other aftermarket stereo installations, that the audio connections in the doors are not necessary anymore since the signal is picked up ahead of the female connector. I unplugged both audio connections onthe doors and now I have music again consistently.
So right now, the driver's door controls for the both windows, the driver's side lock, and both mirrors are still dead. However, everything else works which is an improvement. The radio and passenger door are all working correctly.
I've revisited the black connector in the driver's door accordion and can't find anything more that needs attention. Is it reasonable to guess that I've ruined two LDCM's due to the way things were mis-wired and possibly burned something out? Or would one bad power mirror cause all this? I'm looking for specific ways to test connectivity through the black connector into the door components.
Thanks for all the help so far. We are almost there...
I still ge the same five LDCM codes as before (B2202, B2204, B2206, B2208 and B2286). If I delete them individually it causes the passenger window to roll down EXCEPT for the B2286. If I delete the B2286, all are deleted, one of them returns immediately and then the other four come back at one time.
I can't find any wiring out of place or crossed. The pins seem to be OK now as well.
I still ge the same five LDCM codes as before (B2202, B2204, B2206, B2208 and B2286). If I delete them individually it causes the passenger window to roll down EXCEPT for the B2286. If I delete the B2286, all are deleted, one of them returns immediately and then the other four come back at one time.
I can't find any wiring out of place or crossed. The pins seem to be OK now as well.
At least my radio works again.
Logic dictates the paint shop crossed connections fried the old and new LDCMs, but hell I had a problem with my 01s "intermittent" IPC that no one could solve. I did not have your patience and dumped the car, so I respect your perseverance! Robert obviously has the know how to help you track it down.!
okay here is what you do. There are two wire connectors in the accordion tube on the drivers door. One is a 6 pin connector the other one (I can't remember). Anyway go buy another type 6 pin connector. Don't buy one like the one GM installed. Those connectors are crap. Splice the new connector in making sure wires match and I promise your troubles will end. Let me know if you need help. WTB
Why not just wire them up with quick connectors first just to test them. I thought about doing this with my door wiring since the connectors suck so bad.
I went ahead and ordered a connector pair and crimping tool so I'll have them in case I need them. That's a last resort but we are very close to it right now.
After checking out eveything under the sun and fixing the wiring issues, a new LDCM fixed it. No codes! Everything works now. And it feels great!
Thanks to everyone who participated or was dragged along in this journey. I've learned more than I ever wanted to know about Corvette wiring and electronics that but perhaps I can put it to good use later helping others.
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