It's time to get this done. I'm tired of messing with it. I miss driving my car! I'm making this as up-to-date as possible and including details I found after we started down the path until today to make it as accurate as possible.

Recap: The driver's door controls and my aftermarket radio stopped working AFTER I had the car painted. The mirrors were removed from the car and the door connectors were disconnected as part of the process.

The factory stereo system was replaced with a JVC single DIN unit and the Bose amps bypassed to use two Alpine (unknown part number) crossovers with one in each door to run an aftermarket bass and tweeter.

I have replaced the driver's door control panel, LDCM, and BCM with no change in the problems. I have also tightened up every connection pair in each door and in the door connectors in the accordions. All fuses were tested and the grounds behind both the kick panels were cleaned and tightened. I also disconnected the stereo crossovers at one time to get them out of the equation.

I also removed all power to the driver's seat since at one time it appeared to be a memory module problem. That has all been reconnected. The memory seat works fine 99% of the time and has been this way since I bought the car two years ago.

It's obvious that I get a connection occasionally since I was messing with it the other day and the driver's window went down while I was pressing the mirror button for the passenger side. The window remains down as I have no control over it. Sometimes the passenger window seems to have a mind of its own as far as going down. It never rises on its own. Wiggling wires and connectors would not allow the connection to occur again.

The passenger window drops on its on which seems related to when a B2286 code appears with the LDCM codes. I can reset that code and observe the window going down at will. Also, I can usually hear the RDCM click when I am resetting the B2286 or sometimes when testing the right door mirror controls. However, the window has been known to jerk down incrementally while driving. It can be raised from the passenger controls but my co-pilot gets a little annoyed when this repeats over and over. I apparently have a loose connection somewhere.

The LDCM codes are B2202, B2204, B2206, and B2208 along with the B2286 (mirror related, from all I can find).

Come on, my friends. Help me to get this done. What's left to do? What do I need to recheck? Mentally, I'm starting over so I don't mind to go back through the steps taken so far. The door panels are off, the accordion connections are exposed and available, and the kick panels are out.

 

I will try to help you out but first a little about me. I started in 68 in the Air Force as an autopilot technician with 12 years working on all kinds of aircraft. Then to the airlines as a tech. then aircraft engineering then management to director level. I know electronics and what you have done troubleshooting is a common thing I had with my techs just changing parts when that did not fix problem go to stock room and get another. No disrespect to you but that appears what you are doing. Forget everything you have done and start over. Get your wiring diagrams and check power and ground at your various modules. Use a correct pin or something that will not expand the pins in connector to cause them to loose tension. When everything is verified there then check each pin for voltage then for ground making sure there is no voltage where there is not supposed to be. Then when you are satisfied with that check each adjacent pin making sure they are not shorted together. Then report back with any discrepancies you find. Just changing parts is not the way to troubleshoot.

It just seems strange that everything was fine until you took car to be painted and shop started disconnection plugs in the doors.

 

I replaced parts at the suggestions of those who were helping me prior to today. I have some of the wiring diagrams but do not have access to all. I have checked the pins multiple times but have resigned myself to checking them again and correcting any discrepancies. I'll admit that my skills with electronics and circuitry are somewhat limited but I keep plugging away at it. Yes, this has something to do with the dis-assembly done to paint the car. I just haven't found what it is yet.

 

I do not fault the members on the forum for having you change the modules, the codes indicate there is a problem. However this is more than just a fault code and troubleshooting same. The problem was induced when the paint shop disconnected connectors in door. I suspect you will find power at a pin that should not have any. The big problem now is you have a lot of unknowns, the serviceable status of your modules has to be determined. Maybe the place you purchased the replacements from can test yours and the ones you bought. Do not give up you will find the problem. It will be much cheaper if you can trouble shoot the problem. Have you talked to the paint shop to see what they actually did. It seems like they would want to help you since it seems they caused the problem.

 

I can mail you the book you need as long as you mail it back once your done. Or you can pick it up. Or I can just send you pictures Via text of whatever diagrams you need. LMK

 

I can email you all the wiring diagrams for the car since you also have a 2002.

 

I could really use the ones for all the door circuits including the audio. Some have been passed to me previously but something I could print out would be very helpful.

Nothing is out of place as far as wiring goes, so all this is probably still a door connector problem. I hate this... But, I'll do what is necessary to get it done.

 

Just reading your post again you say the radio does not work. Do you mean it does not light up or no sound from speakers. Also another clue to wiring crossed you move mirror control and window goes down.. I do not really know the C5 systems but on my old 92 C4 the connector for the mirror windows was a post type connector and I had a bent pin touching causing a mirror window problem. Have you removed the connector from the drivers door switch panel and checked it?

 

Did that email go thru?

 

I think I have all that you sent.

Thank you very much!

 

Yes, I've had all the connectors apart and checked the male and female sides of the connections. No bad pins but a few of the female sides were a little loose. Those were addressed, or so I thought, by bending the connectors to tighten up the fit. I intend to revisit those again.

The radio screen has the message "Wiring error, check all connections" and no sound. It worked fine for several months before getting the car painted.

 

Disconnect the speakers and use an ohm meter to measure across the voice coil should read 4 or 8 ohms, check both. Then radio off key to acc. check for voltage to ground on all 4 wires going to speakers, report back for more troubleshooting steps.

 

I'm more worried about getting my windows and locks to work at this point. I think the radio issue will go away once the other issues are addressed. It seems to be more of a symptom of the problem, but not the problem itself.

 

Perhaps nothing, but could it be the radio harness? I had an idiot back into my truck and left without saying. Cracked the headlight unit so I ordered another on line. Looked like the original, plugged in like the original. Problem was that although the plug had the same amount of pins and in the same place, the the wiring was different. With the lights off, no problems, but if the lights were on the turn signal would not work. Turn the lights off and the turn signal worked. Bob Perkins appears to be on the right path, have to trace out and test all the circuits.

Is there remote chance that when the door was painted a tech screwed up something and they had to replace the wire harness?

And, just replacing a control module does not mean the new module is any better than the old unit. Fort Myers Fl, built a justice center back in the 80's. Smoke evacuation system did not work. Spend 1/2 million and figured out it was the fire alarm control module. Sent off and got another and still did not work. Spent another 1/2 million and figured out the second unit was also defective.

 

At this point I can't discount anything, but the radio had worked fine for over a year until the car was painted. No harnesses have been replaced. I still think it's the factory connectors in the doors and am attacking that again. Beyond that, it could be a defective door module and I'll get another (the third) when I get to that point.

Unless someone has a much better suggestion.

 

Thinking out loud. The plug in the door has six connectors if I remember correctly. The window motor reverses by changing the polarity that is performed by the door control unit. The plug has a power lead, a ground, the speaker wires and control wires that take signals to and from the seat, the opposite door etc. If the window is going down, then some signal has told the module to close a contact and send voltage. The window does not go back up because a signal is not telling another contact to reverse polarity and bring the window back up. A disrupted ground would result in no power going through the wires not the opposite, correct electrical gurus?

You have had the door module out and those plugs have some very small pin connectors. Could these door module plugs be part of the issue. The door module I believe has the relay pins on the bottom side. Back to Bob Perkins comments, it would be logical to think that testing the voltages or resistance while somebody pushes a control button, or, opens a door could be used to determine which wire and or control circuit is malfunctioning.

Can the connection between the two door modules be disconnected without impacting the function of individual door control modules to make the window under that module's control function? I am wondering if there is a wire issue behind the dash?

 

I am giving you a logic and structured way to find your problem. I do not care if you are not interested if your radio works. I am trying to help you find the big problem. Checking and rechecking the pins on the connectors is not the problem. There is a connector swapped some where. Checking the speaker will tell if there is 12 volts on the wires if so it will isolate it to that connector as I bet the radio installer used the factory harness and picked the wires that were needed. I am 98% sure you have a connector swapped. Another way to check is take the wiring diagram go to each connector and follow the color through the plug.

 

I appreciate what you are saying so please do not misunderstand my thoughts or intentions. There is no physical way to plug things up incorrectly as every connection is unique. I'll check the wiring through the plugs now that I have all the wiring diagrams. The audio and power to the mirror is isolated to one plug (blue) and all the other circuits use the other one (black). I'm dealing with family matters today or I would be working on it as we speak. I've been dealing with this for several months now and my frustration may show a little. For that, I apologize.

 

No problem but you still have an issue you need to determine if your modules are serviceable. You could find the problem and if the modules are bad you will not know if it is fixed, just saying.

 

Point taken. I'll be working on it maybe this evening.

Thanks!