Anybody seen this happen before? I had a brand new clutch I was holding onto for around a year. I put it in with a new motor and it drove fine for about 5 miles. After that it would not disengage. I pulled down the inspection cover to take a look and noticed 2 of the 3 fingers stuck down and not releasing.

 

NEED MORE INFO!!!!!!!!!!

What Master did you use? If it was aftermarket, HOW did you adjust its STROKE?

Did you take the CRITICAL clutch air gap measurements before you assembled the entire clutch?

Stock of aftermarket slave cylinder?

 

it looks like either the throwout bearing has overextended the pressure plate fingers and bent them or it could have been damaged from the input shaft when assembled

 

it looks like either the throwout bearing has overextended the pressure plate fingers and bent them

WAYYY TOO MUCH stroke on the slave.

 

Not sure on what you mean by the critical clutch air gap. But the measurements I took between the flywheel and disc was .022 and it was a stock slave with a tick master. Left it at the same adjustment as it was from my spec twin I had the previous few years.

 

that was your mistake unfortunately... clutches will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, some need shims and some don't... in your case having a tick master cylinder essentially is doing the same thing as adding shims to the slave and apparently you needed more travel with the spec clutch than the mcleod needs and by leaving that adjustment the same it has overextended your pressure plate fingers... you might try contacting mcleod and see if they can fix the pressure plate but that is a lot of work ahead of you

 

Ok, thanks for the info. Now I have an idea of what went wrong.

 

There are SEVERAL post on making the measurements to determine if the slave cylinder needs to be SHIMMED or if what you have now will even work.

JOEY at TICK posted this. It explains how to take the measurements and what shims are available:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html



When you are ready to reassemble, Take ALL of the adjustment out of the TICK MASTER CYL adjustment rod. (ROD as short as possible)

Take the critical slave cylinder shim measurements. When I installed my SPEC clutch, I found out that I didn't need any shims. Im glad I measured as SPEC recommended adding the shim.

Once you have that data, do what's necessary to get the air gap correct.

To adjust the TICK Master cylinder, lengthen the adjustment rod until you take all the slop out of the peddle. With the rear of the car off the ground, continue to add length to the rod and depress the clutch. When you depress the clutch and the rear wheels are no longer being POWERED (DRIVEN), you are very close to proper adjustment. I had to add a turn and a half to get the cold weather operation better.

NOTE! Some drivetrains will induce rear wheel rotation if they are COLD even if the clutch is properly adjusted. The rotation is easily stopped by hand. If the wheels are being DRIVEN, you need more rod length.

With the proper tick master cylinder adjustment the car should not have any forward movement if you put the car on flat level hard top, place the trans in FIRST GEAR (CLUTCH DEPRESSED) and rev the engine to approx. 5000 -6000 RPM. If it creeps forward, the air gap is not enough and you need to add more rod length.

Hope this better explains the SHIM measurement procedure and TICK Master adjustment.

Bill