Removing engine from top-Need tips
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Removing engine from top-Need tips
Time for a refresh on my C5 LS1. How hard or is it even possible to remove the engine from the top on jackstands?Don't have a lift unfortunatly and I'm in no hurry.
Thanks everyone
Thanks everyone
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 456
From: USA
Here is a great write up:
http://web.archive.org/web/201012091...engineswap.htm
I removed mine from the top. It was not that bad.
If you have a automatic there is a special procedure for supporting the front bearing in the torque tube.
Good luck with your rebuild.
http://web.archive.org/web/201012091...engineswap.htm
I removed mine from the top. It was not that bad.
If you have a automatic there is a special procedure for supporting the front bearing in the torque tube.
Good luck with your rebuild.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Here is a great write up:
http://web.archive.org/web/201012091...engineswap.htm
I removed mine from the top. It was not that bad.
If you have a automatic there is a special procedure for supporting the front bearing in the torque tube.
Good luck with your rebuild.
http://web.archive.org/web/201012091...engineswap.htm
I removed mine from the top. It was not that bad.
If you have a automatic there is a special procedure for supporting the front bearing in the torque tube.
Good luck with your rebuild.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
Leave the torque tube/Trans/diff in the car, just unbolt the torque tube from the bell housing. Pull the bell housing out with the engine.
Unbolt the front cradle and drop it about 5-6" and suspend it on blocks. This way you don't have to pull the rack or disconnect brake lines.
Lift the engine straight out the top without using a load leveler... It'll come right out.
Cradle sitting on blocks, just lowered enough to clear the balancer. And you may not even need to do this with a stock balancer.... (I have a wide 10 rib balancer)
Unbolt the front cradle and drop it about 5-6" and suspend it on blocks. This way you don't have to pull the rack or disconnect brake lines.
Lift the engine straight out the top without using a load leveler... It'll come right out.
Cradle sitting on blocks, just lowered enough to clear the balancer. And you may not even need to do this with a stock balancer.... (I have a wide 10 rib balancer)
Last edited by ajrothm; Mar 25, 2016 at 03:37 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Leave the torque tube/Trans/diff in the car, just unbolt the torque tube from the bell housing. Pull the bell housing out with the engine.
Unbolt the front cradle and drop it about 5-6" and suspend it on blocks. This way you don't have to pull the rack or disconnect brake lines.
Lift the engine straight out the top without using a load leveler... It'll come right out.
Cradle sitting on blocks, just lowered enough to clear the balancer. And you may not even need to do this with a stock balancer.... (I have a wide 10 rib balancer)
Unbolt the front cradle and drop it about 5-6" and suspend it on blocks. This way you don't have to pull the rack or disconnect brake lines.
Lift the engine straight out the top without using a load leveler... It'll come right out.
Cradle sitting on blocks, just lowered enough to clear the balancer. And you may not even need to do this with a stock balancer.... (I have a wide 10 rib balancer)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
Leave the torque tube/Trans/diff in the car, just unbolt the torque tube from the bell housing. Pull the bell housing out with the engine.
Unbolt the front cradle and drop it about 5-6" and suspend it on blocks. This way you don't have to pull the rack or disconnect brake lines.
Lift the engine straight out the top without using a load leveler... It'll come right out...........
Unbolt the front cradle and drop it about 5-6" and suspend it on blocks. This way you don't have to pull the rack or disconnect brake lines.
Lift the engine straight out the top without using a load leveler... It'll come right out...........
Is there any difficulty getting the torque tube and splined shaft to line up with the clutch during reassembly?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
The only thing I usually need a second hand with is lifting the cradle back up to the frame squarely... If it is slightly tilted either front or rear, you'll get it a bind getting the mount holes going over the studs.
I'm sure there is an easier way to R&R the engine then I did it... I've only done it twice, without a lift... First time I pulled the rack all the way out and the cradle all the way out to clean it all..
The rack is a pain in the a$$ to get in and out.
The second time I R&R'd the engine is in the pics above. Left the rack in place and connected as well as the brake lines. I just lowered the cradle just enough to get the balancer to clear the rack/cradle. Maybe 6".
If you had a longer engine hoist, you could probably skip pulling the front bumper cover.. Which is a pain in the a$$ in itself.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
I have another question for you guys.
How do I properly install a new crank pulley if there is no pulley on the crank right now.
I have read somewhere that it's installed differently than on a Camaro LS1 because of the transmission being in the rear of the car.
I already know I have to use a M16 x2.0 rod wit a nut to put it back on.Torque to 37lb-ft 140deg and then to 240lb-ft.
How do I properly install a new crank pulley if there is no pulley on the crank right now.
I have read somewhere that it's installed differently than on a Camaro LS1 because of the transmission being in the rear of the car.
I already know I have to use a M16 x2.0 rod wit a nut to put it back on.Torque to 37lb-ft 140deg and then to 240lb-ft.
Last edited by Chatmove; Mar 26, 2016 at 04:56 PM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,986
Likes: 393
From: Stoney Creek Ontario
Pulled mine from the top (A4) twice no issues..... Remove the rad, drop the rack, etc, support bell housing and front of torque tube, no issues.... Have a bunch of pics on my phone, I'll send them to you -let me know
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
I have another question for you guys.
How do I properly install a new crank pulley if there is no pulley on the crank right now.
I have read somewhere that it's installed differently than on a Camaro LS1 because of the transmission being in the rear of the car.
I already know I have to use a M16 x2.0 rod wit a nut to put it back on.Torque to 37lb-ft 140deg and then to 240lb-ft.
Last edited by Chatmove; Mar 27, 2016 at 09:23 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 456
From: USA
I did not remove my radiator, had plenty of room to go forward.
As far as the crank pulley I know that a balance issue is at play with the manual transmission. Weights are use to final balance the rotating assy at the factory.
I even marked the location and orientation on mine so I could put it back in the same place. Mine is a automatic.
Do you have the balancer that came off so you can check to see if has weights in the drilled holes it in?
There are more experienced people here that may chime in on this also. Good luck with your repair.
As far as the crank pulley I know that a balance issue is at play with the manual transmission. Weights are use to final balance the rotating assy at the factory.
I even marked the location and orientation on mine so I could put it back in the same place. Mine is a automatic.
Do you have the balancer that came off so you can check to see if has weights in the drilled holes it in?
There are more experienced people here that may chime in on this also. Good luck with your repair.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
I did not remove my radiator, had plenty of room to go forward.
As far as the crank pulley I know that a balance issue is at play with the manual transmission. Weights are use to final balance the rotating assy at the factory.
I even marked the location and orientation on mine so I could put it back in the same place. Mine is a automatic.
Do you have the balancer that came off so you can check to see if has weights in the drilled holes it in?
There are more experienced people here that may chime in on this also. Good luck with your repair.
As far as the crank pulley I know that a balance issue is at play with the manual transmission. Weights are use to final balance the rotating assy at the factory.
I even marked the location and orientation on mine so I could put it back in the same place. Mine is a automatic.
Do you have the balancer that came off so you can check to see if has weights in the drilled holes it in?
There are more experienced people here that may chime in on this also. Good luck with your repair.
Haha I see.I will remove and clean it while I'm there.