Hey all, 1999 with dual climate control, right side works like it should, left side blows hot only. Had this problem before but it was opposite. Cost me $600. Am I looking at the same issue now?

 

I have the same exact issue right now!
What was the fix for the right side?

 

It was an actuator for hot and cold blend. I think most of the cost was labor

 

Have you pulled the codes?

 

Haven't yet

 

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the fix would be the same. thx!

 

Could I put a ball valve on the line to heater core and just shut that off?

 

I agree. Pull the codes first. it may be the blend door actuator. most guys replace both at the same time, since its a thing that goes up often.

 

This problem has been posted many times before. IF you have NO codes for the actuator the problem is a low charge. The right side (passenger side) will be cold and the left side (driver) only cool or hot. If you have an actuator code you can try a reset but usually the permanent fix will require an actuator replacement.

 

So ball valve on heater core line is not a good idea?

 

What jury rig repair is next? Glue and a hose clamp on a shredded Torque Tube coupler??



Why don't you just READ THE DTCs and figure out the real cause and just do what it takes to make it right?

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes


The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

Yeah I hear ya. I just thought that a $20 stainless steel valve would be cheaper than a $600 actuater. I could be wrong though. But I'll check codes this evening when I get off work.

 

If you can install a ball valve you can replace an actuator. The left side does not need to have the dash pad removed but it does help.


Mr. Sam

 

SOMETIMES,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, you can simply TURN the HVAC unit OFF,,, RESET the HVAC DTCs and then turn the HVAC unit back on and the actuators will reset them selves.

If you turn the radio off and put the FAN SPEED on LOW, sometimes, you can hear the little motors on each actuator spinning trying to recalibrate. (if they are able to run)

Ive had to do this procedure several time in a row and BINK,, they work normal again.

Here is what an actuator is and whats inside. The one shown has a CRACKED main gear:

LOCATION of the LEFT and RIGHT ACTUATORS. You can get to the LEFT one from under the dash:




INSIDE THE ACTUATOR:



What it looks like mounted to the air box:

 

You are assuming it is the actuator. It could be that the system is just a little low on r134 and needs a recharge or top off. It may have very small leak that will last years before it becomes a real problem. Pull the codes and see. I did this for 3 years before I had to replace the compressor. Resetting he actuators may also buy you some time.