I have the serv. tire mon. system error on my 2004 C5. What do I need to do to fix that error. I did have the battery disconnected a few days ago, could that have caused it?

 

I assume you've gone on the DIC, reviewed, and cleared all the codes and that didn't work. If that is the case the next step is to determine if your TPMS sensors are working correctly. I just had to redo the sensors on my 04 and I ended up using my Tech2 to clear the TPMS system before the new sensors would sync up. Good luck, you'll get it.

 

OMG so many codes

A0-LDCM (8)
B2204H
B2208H
B2282H
B2286H
B2284H
B2264H
U1064H
U1016H

A1-RDCM (6)
B2283H
B2287H
B2285H
B2265H
U1064H
U1016H

B0-RFA (1)
C2119HC
58-SDM(1)
B0090

 

Yes C2110

I disconnected the battery for a while, could this have caused the codes?

 

volt gauge is at 14vdc where it should be.

 

C5 battery charge loss chart

A fully charged battery should be 12.6v or more.

If the battery is

12.5 = 85% charged
12.4 = 65%
12.3 = 50%
12.2 = 35%
12.1 = drained

 

Does any of this charging stuff have to do with my original question about the tire monitor system?

 

I have often read this on the various internet sites but wonder where this statement came from originally. A 12.1 battery is defiantly low but not what I would consider drained.

 

I agree 12.1 for drained is BS. Only believe 2% of data on the net.
I measured the C5 with a digital VOM and off its 12.2 (along with the rest of my vettes) and running its 14.5
so is my next step to reset the codes and go from there?

 

Your next step should be to remove the battery and take to a auto parts store ( Auto Zone, O'Reliys) and have it load tested. Or at least remove and charge battery fully. The C5 does not like to charge a dead battery the electrical system is touchy.

 

I admire your restraint, 8VETTE7.
Perhaps you'll get an apology down the road from the OP but I doubt it.

dan k.

 

Took the car to pep boys today and they load tested the battery and said its fine.
what about the batteries in the valve stems?

 

When the batteries in the TPMs get depleted you get a reading on the DIC of XXX for that particular wheel. It would be extremely unlikely all 4 of them would fail at exactly the same time. You don't get a message of a system error with dead TPM batteries.
You may have to go through the procedure of relearning them, with a magnet, but 12.2 V may not be enough for this system to function properly. You should be reading 12.6 -12.8V at least, not 12.2.
Also, there is no reading when the car is sitting when you first start it up or when you just turn on the key before starting it. The car must be moving 15-20 mph for maybe 30 sec or so the activate the sensors and then they start transmitting.
Try and see if you get any reading with the car driving, or try to relearn the sensors with the engine running when you have your 14.5 V.

 

speaking of voltage, say the battery is 12.1 or 11.7 whatever, and you start the car and its charging at 14.5 which any volt meter is reading, isnt that the voltage the car is now operating on? my error message came on when I had been driving for an hour. Or are you saying when the car sits and the voltage drops, the computer records this voltage as an error.
So I guess the next test is the ignition switch.

 

BATTERIES! Most people view them as just a BLACK BOX (sometimes RED or YELLOW) that cranks their engines!

TRUST ME,, They do a WHOLE LOT more and sometimes the things that they DONT DO CORRECTLY are the most troublesome.

When you CRANK A COLD ENGINE, it draws the MOST CURRENT from the battery. It also has to supply 12.XX volts to all the MODULES while supplying the starter 350+ AMPS. If the battery is damaged or aged, sometimes it FAILS to be able to provide that 12.XX VOLTS DC during that LARGE current draw. Remember,,,,,, Battery Current is ALWAYS inversely proportional to battery VOLTAGE.

Simply put, if your battery is in good shape, when it puts out a large current expenditure, the available VOLTAGE should be 11.5-12.5 VDC.. IF the battery is in POOR SHAPE, it will put out the same current but WILL NOT be able to supply the correct VOLTAGE!

I've see voltage drops on an old battery drop as low as 8 VDC and the engine cranks normally. At that low of an out put voltage some of the modules drop off line on LOW VOLTAGE. As the engine cranks, it will take less and less current and that allows the battery output VOLTAGE rise to a point that the modules work again. (That's when you see those low voltage DTCs)

You can actually observe this by putting a DC Volt meter directly on the battery terminals while someone cranks the engine.

BONUS INFO!!! C5s DO NOT,,,, LIKE LOW VOLTAGES! They start to do some very strange things electrically when they suffer with a low voltage condition.!

BILL

 

There is no way your battery can be good if at rest it reads 12.2V, unless you have a higher than normal current draw drawing it down.
You are not going to listen to any of the good advice you got here, including what I suggested as a test, so go ahead and replace your ignition switch if that makes you feel better.
Hope you solve your problem but not by a shotgun approach and somehow resolve the issue and not knowing what it was.

 

Lets see. I measured the voltage with a meter like suggested...took battery to garage to have it checked out like suggested...but i dont listen? No...you sound like a bunch of 20 year olds that just like to sturr up trouble on a forum.

 

Let's start this all over again, and answer each question, and in order, so we can try and help you, even if you don't want to listen.
1.) What is the battery voltage at rest measured at the battery posts before you start up the car, after it has been sitting overnight?

2.) Did you try my suggestion to reprogram the TPMs with the car running when you have your 14.5V, then go for a ride and see if they read correctly? This is not the same as trying to reprogram them when you only have 12.2V either before you start it or after you turn the key on. Right then and there with 12.2V the computer can malfunction and give you the error message, before you supply 14.5V from the alternator.

If your resting battery voltage is 12.2V as you said before, your battery is kaput despite what the guy who load tested it said to you. If he checked your battery right after you drove over there and it was fully charged, the load test could have been OK, so you either have a current draw in the car drawing it down that you have to find, or your battery is indeed kaput, believe it or not if it can't maintain a charge overnight.

 

Most codes are H codes, which means they could be old codes that no longer present an issue for you. Do like 8VETTE7 suggests and clear them, then drive the car for a while.

The C2110 code is the only C code, which means it's a current issue, and odds are your right rear TPM sensor has given up the ghost. Do like they suggest and try to reprogram your TPMs.

 

Let me start by saying,8vette7 thanks for the many good posts you respond to,your advice has helped me many times.some people have to learn the hard way.i bought a car that sat a lot,and had a lot of codes.the guy thought it had issues.i knew it was the batt.i put a new one in it,clearer the codes,you know the rest of the store.that said.CHANGE YOUR DAM BATT.MAN you got a couple of the best guys telling you what's wrong.