Key fob problem
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 11
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Key fob problem
Hi all. Just purchased a 2001 6mt recently. When I purchased the car the owner showed me that the key fobs work properly if you disconnect and then reconnect the battery. (All buttons as well as from far away). But as soon as you put the key in the ignition to the "on" position and the remove the key, the fob no longer works. I have searched many threads and could not find my answer, so if it exsistes please point me in the right direction.
-thanks
-thanks
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Pull and post your codes. If you have never done this before, here is how:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4
OR
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
Post ALL your codes including the H or C or HC that follow each 5 character code. List the codes below the sensor that they are associated with. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM......etc.
Off hand it sounds like the problem may be a car battery issue. If the battery is low or bad or the cables are loose or corroded the load that starting the car takes on the battery may drop voltage so low that it resets sensors and memory.
Codes can help narrow down what is happening.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4
OR
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
Post ALL your codes including the H or C or HC that follow each 5 character code. List the codes below the sensor that they are associated with. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM......etc.
Off hand it sounds like the problem may be a car battery issue. If the battery is low or bad or the cables are loose or corroded the load that starting the car takes on the battery may drop voltage so low that it resets sensors and memory.
Codes can help narrow down what is happening.
Ldcm b2262h
Ldcm b2264h
Rdcm b2265h
Had battery and alternator test done at advanced and everything showed ok. Results were as follows
Battery
Voltage: 12.75v
Measured: 601 cca
Rated: 550 cca
Temperature: 54f
Starter
Voltage: 10.89v
Amps: 0a
Time: 2.25s
(Graph showed voltage started above 12v then dove to roughly 8.5v when cranking then built back up)
Charging system
No load: 14.37v
Loaded: 14.27v
Ripple: 26mv
Again all tested ok according to them. Also I know the 550 cca is below the recommended 600cca but I figured it wouldn't matter since it was measured at 601cca
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
The codes are related to a recent battery event, perhaps disconnecting and reconnecting the battery or perhaps something else. Suggest you clear ALL the codes and when you have time take the car for a nice ride (20 miles or more). When you get back pull the codes again BEFORE you shut off the engine. Some codes can disappear when you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you need to use the reset button to clear all messages displayed in the DIC. Then pull codes as normal. Codes that have appeared after they were all cleared are those that need attention.
Have you tried retraining the FOB's to the car? If you have more than one you need to train them BOTH at the same time. Instructions are in your owners manual but here is a cut and paste from a 2001 owners manual:
To match transmitters to your vehicle:
1. Turn the ignition key to ON.
2. Clear any warning messages on the Driver Information
Center (DIC) by pressing the RESET button.
3. Press the OPTIONS button on the DIC several times
until the blank page is displayed, then press and hold
the RESET button for two seconds.
4. When the message FOB TRAINING is displayed,
push the RESET button once. The message HOLD
LK + UNLK 1ST FOB in the DIC will be displayed.
5. Press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the
first transmitter simultaneously for five seconds.
6. When a transmitter is learned (matched), the DIC
will display FOB LEARNED and then prompt you
to learn the second transmitter.
7. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for the third transmitter.
8. Remove the key from the ignition.
The programming mode will shut off if any of following
has occurred:
You don’t program any transmitters for two minutes.
You take the key out of the ignition.
You have programmed three transmitters.
Have you tried retraining the FOB's to the car? If you have more than one you need to train them BOTH at the same time. Instructions are in your owners manual but here is a cut and paste from a 2001 owners manual:
To match transmitters to your vehicle:
1. Turn the ignition key to ON.
2. Clear any warning messages on the Driver Information
Center (DIC) by pressing the RESET button.
3. Press the OPTIONS button on the DIC several times
until the blank page is displayed, then press and hold
the RESET button for two seconds.
4. When the message FOB TRAINING is displayed,
push the RESET button once. The message HOLD
LK + UNLK 1ST FOB in the DIC will be displayed.
5. Press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the
first transmitter simultaneously for five seconds.
6. When a transmitter is learned (matched), the DIC
will display FOB LEARNED and then prompt you
to learn the second transmitter.
7. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for the third transmitter.
8. Remove the key from the ignition.
The programming mode will shut off if any of following
has occurred:
You don’t program any transmitters for two minutes.
You take the key out of the ignition.
You have programmed three transmitters.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
So I'm not sure what the problem is but when I'm on the dic and hold the reset button on the black space after hitting the options button, the only thing I can get to show up after holding reset is "tire training". How do u cycle to the key fob training? Holding options as well as pressing it several times does nothing and all the other buttons just take me out of the options
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
I'm suspect of the car battery. Your statement in an above post that :
(Graph showed voltage started above 12v then dove to roughly 8.5v when cranking then built back up)
bothers me. The voltage during cranking going to 8.5 is pretty low and may well be causing the memory stored values back to defaults.
Try this. With the engine running set the DIC display to something other than mileage. Perhaps coolant temp or oil temp etc. Then shut the car off for a minute and then restart the car. Once the engine is running what is displayed in the DIC? The display setting you set it to before turning off the engine or mileage??
If it is mileage then the load on the battery while cranking the car is dropping voltage to the point that it sets the memory stored info back to defaults......
(Graph showed voltage started above 12v then dove to roughly 8.5v when cranking then built back up)
bothers me. The voltage during cranking going to 8.5 is pretty low and may well be causing the memory stored values back to defaults.
Try this. With the engine running set the DIC display to something other than mileage. Perhaps coolant temp or oil temp etc. Then shut the car off for a minute and then restart the car. Once the engine is running what is displayed in the DIC? The display setting you set it to before turning off the engine or mileage??
If it is mileage then the load on the battery while cranking the car is dropping voltage to the point that it sets the memory stored info back to defaults......
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
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From: Columbia SC
Does the tire pressure monitoring system work normally?
If it works fine, I suspect the BCM is at the bottom of this issue. We have seen some similar issues like this before, just not identical.
Mr. Sam
Mr. Sam
If it works fine, I suspect the BCM is at the bottom of this issue. We have seen some similar issues like this before, just not identical.
Mr. Sam
Mr. Sam
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Hmmmmmmmm..... Before I lost all HOPE,, I recommend that you try the following:
1. Clean/adjust your Ignition Switch. If you don't feel good about ignition switch repair, just replace it.
2. Battery dropping that low seriously bothers me. Check the connection at the battery terminals. They need to be CLEAN & TIGHT! If you can move a battery terminal by HAND,, its TOO LOOSE! The designed GM Torque is 11 ft/lbs. Do a good COLD START battery terminal voltage drop monitor. Report results.
3 Check the following ground connections G104/108 on the passengers frame rail near battery, G-106 Passengers engine block above starter.
Bill
1. Clean/adjust your Ignition Switch. If you don't feel good about ignition switch repair, just replace it.
2. Battery dropping that low seriously bothers me. Check the connection at the battery terminals. They need to be CLEAN & TIGHT! If you can move a battery terminal by HAND,, its TOO LOOSE! The designed GM Torque is 11 ft/lbs. Do a good COLD START battery terminal voltage drop monitor. Report results.
3 Check the following ground connections G104/108 on the passengers frame rail near battery, G-106 Passengers engine block above starter.
Bill
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If your battery will NOT provide proper VOLTAGE when its under High Current cranking loads,,, its bad. Have it properly tested again and see what the VOLTAGE does when its fully loaded.
It SHOULD NOT drop below 10 VDC! EVER!
Bill
It SHOULD NOT drop below 10 VDC! EVER!
Bill
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Also in the past two weeks I've had the dic say charging system fault one time for about one second, one night only the driver side light went up, following night only passenger light went up, now both go up normally. Also the radio flashed err one time as well
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
So I'm still struggling to figure this problem out. Put a new battery in test the voltage under cranking all is well there. Checked ground connections and all were clean and tight. My problem seems completely unique as I haven't found another problem similar to this on the forums.
Again fob doesn't work unless battery is disconnected then reconnected. Then everything works perfectly. But as soon as the key goes into the on position it will not work anymore. But it will work if I only turn it to the accessory part.
Is it possible this has to do with anti theft part of the system? I know the previous owner struggled with the column lock and bypass system. It almost seems like it's software related.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,922
Likes: 219
From: West Branch, MI
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...em-solved.html
Have you read through this thread yet? If not, I would certainly check it out as the folks here were re-syncing every day as well. And the cost is almost free as well. Also, you did not state how you were attempting to re-sync your FOBs when they stop working. What method were you using to re-sync other than disconnecting the battery?
Have you read through this thread yet? If not, I would certainly check it out as the folks here were re-syncing every day as well. And the cost is almost free as well. Also, you did not state how you were attempting to re-sync your FOBs when they stop working. What method were you using to re-sync other than disconnecting the battery?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,922
Likes: 219
From: West Branch, MI
Just trying to attack this issue logically. If the user is losing sync when he turns the ignition key to "ON", then it would seem that either the FOB is bad (cold solder or loose connection) or the receiver is faulty. I think I'd progress in this manner. I'd find a temporary "host" donor car that would allow the user to sync his FOB to his donor car then see if the FOB continues to work or fails again. This would probably resolve if the issue is in the FOB or the receiver. If the previous owner was having some column lock issues, might it be possible some wire was crossed or shorted so that everytime the key goes to the ON position, the receiver is being briefly shorted out and losing sync? This is an unusual problem and will problem require some unusual testing to resolve. To the OP, do you have anyone that might allow you to temporarily sync your FOB to their car?