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I just had a tire shop balance my wheels. They put the weights where the calipers are located and then backed the car out of the bay scratching up all four wheels.
Looks like all wheels need to be stripped and new powder coat.
My question is what is the correct way to balance these wheels?
What did the factory do?
I also need to reapply the yellow "magnesium" words. Anyone have any idea how to get this done?
Oye- the factory used the champagne colored weights and put them on the outer lip. As you've seen they cannot be put on the inside.
These specially colored weights are expensive and I'm not even sure if they're available anymore. What I did- was tell the wheel shop to put the sticky weights outside (I even go as far as to write on painter's tape "weights go on this lip" so the people at the tire shop do it right), then I use Duplicolor touch up paint to paint the weights a close color. Make sure you go to a shop that specializes in special/expensive rims for tire mounting, or you risk getting your rims all scratched
Curious- the rears should not have hit the calipers though- the smaller brake and larger rim diameter does not have the clearance issue.
I have Baer Eradispeed +2 rotors on the rear. You can see in the photo they fill up the rim.
They also managed to scratch up the powder coat on the "candy red" calipers.
Quick question. Why is the pad only partially contacting the disc area? Very strange.
Not normal to have that much of the disc face not making contact. You're taking a big loss in braking efficiency.
Last edited by Cybermind; Apr 14, 2016 at 06:50 AM.
Quick question. Why is the pad only partially contacting the disc area? Very strange.
Not normal to have that much of the disc face not making contact. You're taking a big loss in braking efficiency.
Had the same problem on a 62 impala with baer brakes, the brackets were wrong. Your pads are probably worn like the disks. I sent pics to Baer, they sent new brackets.
Agreed. The pads actually appear to be reversed in the calipers by the picture. The round edge is usually on the outer edge. I'd get with Baer for sure.
It might be cheaper/quicker to find another set of wheels and sell the ones you have now to someone for a daily driver or racer.
Oye- the factory used the champagne colored weights and put them on the outer lip. As you've seen they cannot be put on the inside.
These specially colored weights are expensive and I'm not even sure if they're available anymore....
Sorry EricD but you're WONG! I ran the magnesiums for a few years with stick-on weights along with Baer Eradispeed +2 rotors and stock calipers. All you need to do is have them put the flat weights on the barrels between the center of the wheel and the inside edge. Works just fine. Also, I doubt the original weights that were on the outside rim were anything special, other than being painted to match the wheel, at the most.
Sorry EricD but you're WONG! I ran the magnesiums for a few years with stick-on weights along with Baer Eradispeed +2 rotors and stock calipers. All you need to do is have them put the flat weights on the barrels between the center of the wheel and the inside edge. Works just fine. Also, I doubt the original weights that were on the outside rim were anything special, other than being painted to match the wheel, at the most.
I tried this before (weights on the center of the barrel) and it DID NOT work well - I always had a slight shimmy at highway speeds until I did it the "wong way" (hey I'll take credit for it ) with the weights on the OUTSIDE.
To me, the center of barrel method is the equivalent of using a static balancer and putting the weights in the center of the barrel- this method WILL NOT correct for side to side weight imbalances. You probably got lucky with the tires if it worked well for you but in my experience it did not. Now- if someone has a show only car and is hellbent on not having ANY weights on the outside, then this will be the best tradeoff- but to someone who actually uses their car, I'd much rather do it the correct way.
The original weights were also a smaller size- most sticky on weights are a little large looking on the outside lip but I'll take that visual "consequence" over shelling out big bucks for the specialty weights.
I (and I'm sure the OP) appreciate the suggestions but the OP's original question is how the factory did it- and this is how- the painted "special" weights mounted to the outside lip.
Last edited by ericdwong; Apr 14, 2016 at 10:35 AM.
Perhaps your wheels were a bit "warped" when you tried the weights on the inside. I had mine trued before powder coating, and apparently they needed it. No problems with the weights/balance, as I mentioned. They also now make very low profile stick-on weights that might fit between the barrel and the caliper. A good wheel/tire shop should've been able to make it work without doing damage...
Try balancing beads! Motorcycles & exotic car owners have been using them for years.No more problems with wheel weights.
I LOVE balance beads on motorcycles.
Unfortunately, they do not work on tires that are low profile........ low profile like my Honda Ridgeline.......... I can pretty much say for certain that they will not work on a Vette.
Perhaps your wheels were a bit "warped" when you tried the weights on the inside. I had mine trued before powder coating, and apparently they needed it. No problems with the weights/balance, as I mentioned. They also now make very low profile stick-on weights that might fit between the barrel and the caliper. A good wheel/tire shop should've been able to make it work without doing damage...
Anything is possible, but I have all my wheels and tires balanced on a Hunter GSP9700 (road force balancer). I know my solution isn't the prettiest but it works for me
Originally Posted by The Chev
I LOVE balance beads on motorcycles.
Unfortunately, they do not work on tires that are low profile........ low profile like my Honda Ridgeline.......... I can pretty much say for certain that they will not work on a Vette.
I'll definitely keep this in mind! I started to mount my own motorcycle tires and got sick of paying the local shop to do it
Unfortunately, they do not work on tires that are low profile........ low profile like my Honda Ridgeline.......... I can pretty much say for certain that they will not work on a Vette.
Are you sure they don't work on low profile tires? I'm running DynaBeads on my C5 coupe with 275/35r18 front & 275/40r18 rear.6 ounce bags per wheel/tire.
Are you sure they don't work on low profile tires? I'm running DynaBeads on my C5 coupe with 275/35r18 front & 275/40r18 rear.6 ounce bags per wheel/tire.
Our official policy is that we do not advise using Dyna Beads in any car, truck or
SUV tire with an aspect ratio 65 or below unless used in conjunction with
weights.**
I went ahead and tried them on my Ridgeline with regular balance weights based on the amazing job they have done on motorcycle tires in the past........ I ended up paying a tire shop to take them out and re-balance the wheels. I probably should have just listened to the manufacturer.
I also need to reapply the yellow "magnesium" words. Anyone have any idea how to get this done?
Is there a company that can create stickers, silk screen, etc. that would get this distinctive "magnesium" yellow marking back on my wheel after the powder coating?
Last edited by Dave-A; Apr 15, 2016 at 08:48 AM.
Reason: Add photo
Is there a company that can create stickers, silk screen, etc. that would get this distinctive "magnesium" yellow marking back on my wheel after the powder coating?
I think it's actually a decal that was put on before the clearcoat. Check with a local wheel refinishing shop OR try a decal shop, it should be pretty easy to duplicate. Last I heard (10 years ago) mid-America had them but they've long since been discontinued.
I think it's actually a decal that was put on before the clearcoat. Check with a local wheel refinishing shop OR try a decal shop, it should be pretty easy to duplicate. Last I heard (10 years ago) mid-America had them but they've long since been discontinued.
I will check with mid-Arerica, but I do think it is outside of the clear coat as it has come off most of my wheels and has degraded on the remaining wheel.
It DOES sound like putting it under the clear coat would be ideal so that it does not deteriorate with age.
Do a local search on google, etc for "decal shops near me" or similar search. Places that produce vinyl signs etc should be able to do it easy. I'd recommend using Marine grade vinyl (the ones that graphics for boats are used for) as they will withstand abrasion, UV, weather etc much better than interior grade vinyl.