Can it be done at home, or do I need a mechanic's shop? I've done the bleeding at each caliper before, but dont' know about doing the whole system. Any tutorial available online?

Thanks,

 

You can do it yourself, but you won't get the ABS system flushed w/out going to the dealer where they use the Tech 2 to activate the ABS when they bleed the system.

If you are going to do it yourself. First remove all the fluid you can out of the reservoir with a turkey baster.

You may also want to remove all the fluid out of your clutch reservoir, wipe out the inside and put in some fresh fluid.

To do it yourself try some speedbleeders from http://www.speedbleeder.com

Here is the procudure. Note the order:

Steps 1-3 are for bleeding the master cylinder.

4. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with Delco Supreme 11® (GM P/N 12377967) or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level. Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm, when cap removal is necessary.

5. Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, then install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.

6. Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with Delco Supreme 11® (GM P/N 12377967) or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.

7. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain pedal position.

8. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.

9. Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.

10. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 7-9 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.

11. With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, (after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit), install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 6-10.

12. With the left front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, (after all air has been purged from the left front hydraulic circuit), install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 6-10.

13. With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, (after all air has been purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit), install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 6-10.

14. After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.

15. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with Delco Supreme 11® (GM P/N 12377967) or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.

16. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.

17. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection .
Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.

18. Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.

19. If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.




[Modified by gmblack3, 3:03 PM 9/6/2002]

 

Very easy if you have one of these and a set of SpeedBleeders on your calipers.

I recently did this while I was swapping out the rotors and this pressure bleeder and the SpeedBleeder plugs made it almost a joy to bleed/flush the brake lines. It turns into a one-man job with no pumping or constant refilling of the MC required. :yesnod:



:cheers:

 

Patches: Where can I get that Power Bleeder?
gmblack3: How important is it to get the ABS flushed as well? I'm going to the roadcourse this month and will want to flush everything right after, possible right before, too.

Thanks!
Also, how much brake fluid do I need to fill the entire system, with and without doing the ABS part?

 

Flushing before the event is a good idea. However, flushing afterwards is a waste of money. What you are trying to do is to get an excellent fluid with a high dry boiling point in the calipers and brake lines so the fluid doesn't boil when you are at the track. Fluid in the ABS unit isn't near the calipers so it won't get overheated even if it is old.
Bill

 

I meant to say flushing before and just bleeding the air out after the track event.
Thanks,
RT

 

Power Bleeder: http://www.motiveproducts.com/

Speed Bleeders: http://www.speedbleeder.com/

I got the stainless steel Speed Bleeders. :cheers: I used ATE fluid and it took about a liter to get the old fluid flushed including some excess to be sure. The nice thing was the fluid was a different color and it was easy to tell when the new fluid had replaced the old. :yesnod:

 

Patches:
Motul 600 comes in at $10/pint. I don't remember how many pints or quarts it takes to flush the whole system, excluding ABS. Do you ?

Thanks,

 

A quart should do it as long as you don't over do it. I bought 2 liters to be safe but I saw fresh fluid in the final caliper just before I'd finished the first liter and I had lots of air in the system because I'd taken my calipers off to paint them and replaced the lines with Goordridge SS lines.

The ATE fluid is blue so when the fluid in the drain was pure blue, that caliper was done.

Edit: BTW, in 01's and '02's the bleed order has changed to RR, LF, LR, RF due to the change in brake pairing to crossovers.


[Modified by Patches, 8:56 PM 9/6/2002]

 

If you are going to flush your braking system infrequently, you can pick up a spring loaded bleeder device at your local auto parts store to make this a one man operation. Cost was under $5 and worth every dime. It's an easy operation to do if you take the time.

 

I switch back and forth between amber and blue so it is easy to see when the old stuff has been purged. Also did you notice Motive Products has blue and amber at $9.95 a liter! Not bad!

 

HEHE .. great thread Trung!! I just ordered a power bleeder because of it. :yesnod: Im gonna need it cause i ordered the eradispeed rotors and zo6 calipers. :cheers: